bassnbrad

Good suggestions one and all. I as well as many others on this site sell through Ebay. You Can try the Tackle shop, I would try a hand full of lures through them anyways. A couple of things to think about, as CatchingConcepts says if the lures are of quality they will sell themselves. You will need proper packaging, one to protect the lure and second to promote future sales. When someone buys a lure that catches fish they look for that same packaging on the shelf or the lure itself online. Secondly, Quality hardware, nothing downgrades the lure like cheap hooks and hardware. If I was to try production style lures as these I would put some type of name on them... ie... your initials, your store name or initials, or some type of marking showing them as yours. Once the packaging is thrown away, and a person catches fish on them they can find your products that way.... You may want to look at the link below to get some ideas... Good Luck and best fortunes with it. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5468.m570.l1313&_nkw=Handmade+crank+baits&_sacat=See-All-Categories

After playing around for a bit, this is the closest I came up with... Ceramcoat Light Ivory 3 parts Americana Fawn 1 part americana Mustard seed 1 part I hope this helps.

Orrrrrrrrrr you can do as you're doing and just dremel out the eye sockets with a flat deburring bit. Very easy to do.

Lets go back to the original Question... " Do I need to seal before i spray a base coat?" If you are painting the RC1.5 K.O. blanks with the front nook hanger in sideways, look at the Rear hook hanger closely. Out of a batch of ten, I had 3 that the hanger and body was not glued properly, and when I submerged one I had water get in the bait. So while you should not have to seal plastics, you should check all seams and hangers to make sure they are set properly. A dot of super glue fixed those leaks BTW. That's one of the cases where you get what you pay for I reckon.

Here is my technique, This is copied and pasted a conversation, so forgive any typos... I fought and fought scale patterns for quite a while trying to figure out how to keep them straight and not bunching up or curving too much. The important thing I found was I had to stretch up and down straight very tautly. I use of all things, CHOPSTICKS from Panda Express. Without breaking them apart, I tape the part where the wood is still together so I can open and close them as needed.I use two sets, one on top to hold the netting straight up and down, and one on the bottom to pull the netting tight. The netting is folded in half with the scale pattern in the direction you want and place the first set of chopsticks through the folded netting. Make sure the netting is straight and not bunched up anywhere. Lay the lure inside the folded netting halves on its back, then using the second set of chopsticks pull both sides of the netting through very tight to hold the lure in place and this will give you your scale masking. After you arrange the netting straight and tight use something to hold the netting in, I use a 12" set of hemostats clamping the netting below the second set of chopsticks. Once your lure is stationary and wrapped then you are ready to move on.

Who woulda thought that when you open one of those "wife's bath thingy", you'd have to figure out how to hide 25 feet of mesh? They should put a warning label on the danged things! It would read something like "Beware, once White string is removed, have 20 gallon trash bag ready to catch ensuing mesh!" BEFORE WIFE CATCHES YOU!

This is called a dual action brush. On some you can adjust the collette to adjust the paint flow. When you pull back for paint it adjusts how much you can pull back. Its best to learn to control the paint flow before using that, then you'll find you use it very rarely. Also the "long pin" is called a "needle". You loosen the collette to remove the needle for cleaning. Be VERY careful, do not to bend the tip, and they are very sharp. When you change tip sizes ie, 2mm,3mm,5mm etc, you change the needle also. Be careful not to turn the gun upside down when the needle is out, the trigger will fall out. Hope this helps.

How about spinners instead of a leader? and is this "Water World" enough?

A-Mac, Glad to hear the "Cedar" is working better for ya! Here's some possible tips for your lure "Completion"... 1. Get 6 Plastic Top thumbtacks The BIG ones 2. Drill a 1/8" hole from one side to the other on each of them 3. Attach a 10mm split ring to each of these. 4. On one Split ringed tack attach 3 foot of 120lb stainless steel leader. Attaching a #2 Swivel to the end. 5. Get 5ea 2/0 Salt water Treble Hooks, The Beefier the better! Attach these to the remaining Tacks 6. The "Leadered Tack" stick in the nose, then holding the Lure (and this is important) Perfectly level Stick one tacked hook in the tail, and the other 4 on the sides 2 to a side down the lateral line... 7. Oh I must mention, You must attach this with the "Double Barreled Overhanded Polymer Slip Knot"! BTW, I understand you may be looking for a "Denser" wood than cedar... I heard "Petrified Wood" is Hard to beat!!! Oh come on you smiled at least once didn't ya? Ask Ben about his " Flying Devils Horse Helicopter Lure" I helped him Design.....

I have the Air Eraser, and like hillbilly says the hopper is a problem, always having to refill.... Maybe if I was shooting at the recommended 65psi instead of 100+ It may go slower. One thing I can say good about it, it is very good for detail cleaning. I am gonna try the other one he suggested next week. Oh yeah, tried baking soda as a medium, works great till the moisture screwed it up... Stick with the Aluminum Oxide with this one....LOL

With the sanding sealer you can dip it, just remember, you are saturating your wood more like this so you need to allow more dry time. After you dip it and it starts to dry look carefully at your bait. Some wood types will bristle slightly when sealing requiring a second light sanding with 400 or more paper and resealing. A good way to tell is after the lure is completely dry (emphasis on completely) take a cotton ball and lightly run it across the bait against the grain. It may feel smooth to the fingers, but the cotton ball will not lie to you.

I cannot speak of the LV's, but I have bought from bbb also, and he stands behind what he sells.

Here are a couple you can use, you can dip or brush on and hang to dry. If you dip, allow at least twice the dry time. The one thing I would suggest is if you are drip drying is screw a small eye screw in both the nose and tail leaving several threads exposed. The nose to hang from and the tail to allow the sealer to run off of not pooling at the tail. Also sand and seal at least twice, any blemishes not seen with the naked eye will show up in your painting process. ie... dips scratches or pitted areas.

The easy way, which may not be the best, but will certainly get the job done is as you asked "do I lighty sand the top coat & paint it silver?" If you LIGHTLY spayed the silver, allowing the foil to still shine through it would be pretty kewl. You might try sanding, painting with a translucent paint and or add some glitter to the top coat. To me, Mikes suggestion would be best if you want that true Silv/Blk finish...