airbrushextreme

I use the brush jig a lot in hydrilla and milfoil as well as pads wood flooded bushes and brush I dont usually let my jig set very long so I am not worried about it standing up I use a 291 gamakatsu hook in it especially if I am fishing with braid I made some with the new Trokar TK800 hooks but havent had time to try them yet plus the water is cold or frozen I caught a 200lb gator on the gamakatsu hook model at lake okeechobee 3 weeks ago

I paint and use these myself, I like them although they arent the real thing they are just another addition to my jerkbait arsenal and fill a niche that the true megabass or pointer doesnt do they need heavy hooks or like I do wrap the front hook with a little .020 lead fly tying wire and put heat shrink over it. this solves the floating problem the true megabass has on mono line

you can get extended life CA from woodcraft and some other similar stores it doesnt set as fast I use it quite regularly

I had been looking for one also, similar to a war eagle screamin eagle or a S.O.B. mini me I am having a mold made in both baits 1/2 and 3/4oz its gonna cost $150 but will pay for itself in a month or two

Has anyone ever tried painting a hollow body vinyl frog with Vinyl lure and jig paint? I am thinking about it just have to buy some paint to try first I figured it should work fine because soft frogs are vinyl and the paint is for vinyl. I have used auto air for frogs but over a few hours hydrilla and milfoil pull the paint off even with a sealer but those few hours before the paint wears off have been very productive

try mixing it with parma fasclear I use it for all of my glitter applications you could also mix it into your epoxy topcoat if you wanted

I bought a paasche talon also I thought it was the poorest quality I have ever seen I have 7 total iwata airbrushes3 hp-bcs ,a hp-c plus, highline ch,custom micron c plus, and a revolution hp tr1 I have worn out several others a badger and 3 paasche vls they all worked great but after a while the trigger piston which is soft brass started wearing out and they wouldnt paint accurately anymore I have yet to have any problems with any of my Iwatas and I paint with them every day sometimes up to 14 hours straight

I tried to get Kelly at Mimic Lures to make me 100 of his shadrap style baits he was all gung ho about it but I guess he forgot about me as well as the 5 others guys I know who also placed an order for 100 each from him they were great baits but I guess he doesnt want anyones business

Dont tell my wife but they came from her scrapbooking punches she has a punch with about 100 different attachments and one is a diamond shape I also tried the 1/4 moon punch but it takes too much time to align those

you can powder coat tungsten just like any other metal I have also bought from bulk tungsten and done my own custom colors I like 2 tones as well as other colors than greens and blacks

I have been doing this for 2 years now I use hologram prism tape from WTP Inc. either punched out with a diamond shaped punch or I cut out the scales with a scale shaped punch that cuts out the holo scales from the transparent backing. This is the same Magic Scales effect that luckycraft uses on their baits I have done over 35 patterns like this and my clientelle try to keep it hush hush but every now and then it gets out the LC gunmetal shad and crack were a couple of colors that were showed/gave to skeet reese at the blue ridge brawl at Smith Mountain Lake VA in 2008 by one of my former clients try red scales on a red craw with a chartreuse belly or copper scales on a brown crawfish colored bait I also done a JSJ snack size shad and original double joint in a deep candy red with copper and gold scales it screams CARP or sucker

I have used JB weld for this also it lasts forever and can be chipped out if you decide later I have built molds out of jb weld all by itself so have at it

I have tried it also I am not a big fan of it either I bought orange illusion and copper chrome both didnt "vein" out during the curing process I bought copper vein and silver vein mixed with dormant orange TGIC from columbia coatings got the same colors offered by fishingskirts.com and it was easier to use and veined out very pretty

I made my mold to mold the wire in with the hook attached but I find it easier to use the candle method than wrestle with the hok and wire to get it right

I have heated 3/0-5/0 with a candle enought to open then close to attach to wire just like the Tommy Biffle Hardhead I think too much heat will weaken them so I just used the candle and it worked for me

I have worn out 2 badgers in a single year I have several Iwata airbrushes 2 being eclipse models and they have been going strong without showing any signs of wear just my personal opinion but I would stick with Iwata they have more precision I also bought the micro adjustment handle for my eclipse just like the one on my hi line and custom microns and it turns an already good brush into a super brush

Gary glues scale mesh to yhe bait before he foils them I have busted a few on rip rap and the mesh is the only thing that held the bait together

the CSI powder doesnt do very well with the powder water for some reason I read your reply and I tried it for myself its kind of like it has a different base or make up than the columbia coatings the water flattened some gloss black and pumpkin that I tried it with as well as blistered and burned

I spray very thin wet powder mixed with powder water. My camera wont download to my computer so I dont have any pics up I can paint blades that look better than SOB or strike king and flutter spoons dont even compare to the others I use a #5 needle in a Iwata eclipse bcs not an expensive gun but it does the powder well make sure to use quality thin powder I only use Columbia Coatings or the gun will clog and make sure to mix the paint well I use paasche color cups and a popsicle/corndog stick in a cordless drill to mix mine about 3 minutes on that small cup

let the paint dry first dont bake it while the water is in the paint the liquid base of the powder water will burn before the powder paint has time to heat up

I cut them off with a razor knife it makes a nice clean flat spot for the stick on 3-D eyes I collect the old rebel pop-r p70 and I do all of them this way especially the upside down "dead shad" baits I repaint it gives a better cosmetic appeal to the baits

their colors are kind of self explanatory the flourescents are great and the illusion colors are great I use the copper ,candy yellow and lollipop red over chrome or gold blades I use the texture and elegant colors the metallic chrome and gold are great for jigs as well as lead jigging spoons the iwata eclipse is the the hp-bcs standard from bear air

use the powder water from columbia coatings and mix it thin spray your scales as if it were normal paint then rebake it I do this all the time I have some craw/tiger patterns on blades that are just unbelieveable the local guys like them better than strike kings SOB lures or anyone elses painted blades for that matter I undercoat with my base then add scales and stripes/tiger markings using the powder water mixed thin let it dry a little then bake in the oven I wouldnt waste my time trying to spray onto a hot blade this is much easier and if you mess up a little it just wipes off and you can start over unlike hot powder coating and you dont risk burning your fingers trying to get the scale mesh or stencils just right If you have any questions feel free to private message me

I use a finger out of a neoprene glove and a pair of slip joint pliers I have never had any trouble just a little nudge and it breaks loose

I use the Iwata eclipse with a .5 needle and it works wonders with the powder paint mixed with powder water from columbia coatings I use 45 psi and it works better than standard paint I use paashe color cups with this gun instead of bottles