airbrushextreme

I have been using a screwlock football and roundball as well as a custom brush jig with a screwlock that a friend makes I fish them on 25lb mono or 65lb braid I use either a gamakatsu 291 or a 2034 ewg these are mean looking jig heads I flip and pitch the shakey head a lot as well as use it as a stroking jig for deep structure

I have a flat eye arky that is double collar it accepts any of the flat eye hooks light wire up to the xtra heavy gamakatsu I have several jig molds the following is a list of what I have and where/what it is best used for: Weedless roundball: finesse jigs for open water and target casting Weedless football : open water and rocks especially dragging football screwlock Modified: I modified 1 of these by adding a small plate to the bottom of the football to make a flat (standup)spot I use the EWG and light wire oshaughnessy ewg to make squirrel tail shakey jigs for finesse and ewg standup shakeys for bigger power fishing tactics Round ball screwlock shake it mold: I bought the one that accepts regular and flat eye hooks for standard shakey heads Steelhead jig mold: I modified it to accept g-lock hooks and a small wire slot for weedless flickshake heads Flat eye arky jig: used mainly for flipping bushes and laydowns Style "S" jig: this is the old stanley jig head this is my staple for dock skipping jigs 60 degree flipping jig mold: great bush jig as well as a decent stroking jig head I also use it to flip grass when it scattered clumps Poison tail jig: I use the smaller sizes as swimming jig heads and the large ones for grass jigs the 3/4 +1oz were modified to take a Gamakatsu 291 hook I also modified a base pin so that I can tie bucktails without weedguards with this one also Hidden Eye brush jig: I use this jig in submerged brush piles and around standing timber the heavy models work in thick grass also Sparkie jig mold: I use this mold to make chatterbait heads I modified it to hold a piece of aircraft cable also because I solder up a hook similar to the old leverage spinnerbaits for my chatterbaits Custom made punch jig mold: 1 1 1/2 +2 oz jigs made to punch through the thickest grass stubby bullet shaped but body is oval not round so the head has a belly modeled after the oldham trailer hitch jig Custom shad head: made similar to the blade runner weedless swimbait head except it uses a titanium or stainless wire as a grub keeper and has 1 ring and a toothpick hole I have this in a 3/16 1/4 5/16 3/8 1/2 3/4 and 1oz sizes I use it for swimming jigs and paddle tail swimbaits Custom football screwlock jig: I modified this one to accept the size 0 stainless wire eyes and a free swinging hook just like the gene larew hard head jig tube skirt jig: modified to take 3/0 +4/0 gamakatsu 114 jig hooks and a stainless double wire weed guard like the oldham weedless tube head 1/8-3/8 Ultra minnow jig mold I use this to make bucktails for smallmouth fishing as well as stroking over deep structure I use a wide variety of jigs for various tactics and carry several plano 3700 boxes of poured painted heads unskirted as well as my skirt material with me to every tournament they may not always bite a jig but when they do I make sure I have what I need. I always tie my jigs I used to use skirt bands but dont anymore I spend too much time replacing skirts so now I unly use rattle bands for rattles and kevlar to hold the skirt in place

Yes or the airbrush . I also bought about 50 colors of powder too it is a lot cheaper than cs coatings and twice as much product and it is very simple to use it turns powder paint into liquid like magic I was leary at first and just bought 4oz I end up buying a gallon it makes fine intricate work effortless I I just finished some custom blader tonight white chart tips, white pink tips, chartreuse blue tips,transparent chartreuse,chart orange tips, white chart scale, crystal mud craw and delta red craw they baked up really nice and looked factory or professional compared to most I tried to chip the paint off of 1 a while ago by throwing it at the concrete wall and all I did was hurt my arm it didnt chip

shorten the feathers to just above the wide fluffy part at the bottom before you start tying . I tie lots of feather tails and always do this other than that your tails look great. remember colors are endless I have a 3700 series plano in my boat with size1/0 2 4 and 6 trebles in it all in a multitude of colors reds oranges chartreuses a few greens blues blacks and purples I have a lot of shad colors with and without tinsel and flash you never know what baits work better with and without them unless you try them I have a custom painted shad rap that has a brown and red tail and a orange brown mottled belly feather that catches fish when nothing else will just a matter of imagination is all. also a little less thread or shorter tie looks better if you want to try that

Similar to the squirrel head jig but it holds a larger wire hooks and ewg hook? I modified a normal football shakey head mold to accept these I will upload pics when I get a chance

Have you tried powder water from columbia coatings I have never been any good with powder paint until I found this I can do multi color jigheads splatter colors and I even painted some very thin on spinnerbait blades it really works and you can do superfine detail without airbrush and laquer or epoxy coatings afterwards just bake in the oven 350degrees for 15-20 and its bullet proof I bought some powder from them also and its much better than cs coatings and you can get any kind of colors not just the basics anymore

I have a pair of needlenose vise grips on a stand also I use it for tying bucktails and feathered trebles it works good but not my first recommendation

that why I said you have to seal it I have several hundred linear feet of sawmill cut redwood from the late 70's that was given to me I used it for a while but its not a favorite of mine I like douglas fir the best followed by cypress they are both hard dense woods that can stand up to a lot of abuse

I have a great one I only paid $30 for at my local Gander Mountain it has 2 sets of jaws for hooks up to7/0 I use it for tying jigs all the time I tie over 5000 swim jigs alone every year not to mention ball head finesse and arky head skipping jigs it has lasted over 3 years with no problems I have a good one from cabelas that has issues on certain days it is a cabelas super II vise It has problems staying tight when I pull very hard on it

try Jannsnetcraft or if you really want to sink some money into a motor that will last forever Grainger carries gearmotors from .5 rpm up to 60rpm for this application I dont build rods anymore but I repair my own and I have a 45 rpm gearmotor 115 vac and it works great it doesnt sling the finish it makes it glass smooth I have used it while putting finish on and it does a great job keeping too much from building up

I have made several baits out of redwood mostly fat square lip baits . they make great very bouyant baits but are very soft wood I normally glue my screw eyes in and add any weight to the belly before I seal the bait. after the sealer dries I sand or scotchbrite it then paint it

I have a couple of packs I bought at Sportsmans warehouse before they closed they were store brand I believe and saltwater baits I found them in my Outer banks basket

I was thinking the same thing I normally dont use laquer paints but in the past I have used autoair over it without any problems

I use mirrorcoat bartop epoxy it does a great job is super hard and doesnt chip

I have pulled them out before to replace them with circuit board all I do is start wiggling the lip back and forth and it will eventually break free there is a round pin that helps hold the bill in place I have taken the circuit board lip and epoxied a 1" piece of dowel with a groove sawed in it and replaced it with that I use gorilla glue to re glue the lip so the foam replaces the void. it just takes too much time to do this so I just buy them wholesale from Mimic Lures and paint them myself

I dont powdercoat mine its just a personal preference I epoxy coat, paint, and epoxy coat over top of the paint I dont have any paint chip off that way I can add lots of paint detail that way

Thats the way its done in my book also I use a lot of Gem shift at times for scale patterns I always use the dark base coat or solid black

looks like you were doing taxidermy on shad they look awesome

these look like some of the Ed Chambers baits I found at BassPro in Concord NC they werent autographed /signed but they are Zoom I have several that I bought for $10.99 each in the orange shad (carp) color both round bill and coffin bill and a couple of the bone shad baits as well I have a Tapp and a Sweet P in the bone shad color it even says it on the box mystery solved on the baits but I dont know the names of the others possibly a z-flat

try fishingskirts.com Charles has creature skirts in a variety of colors

Correct it is an automotive sealer. what most dont understand is that most automotive as well as rattle can paints arent waterproof so a sealer is needed for any type of wood used for crankbait making I use automotive sealer on my baits also just because it goes on thick and dries fast usually in 10-15 minutes. Epoxy works the same but we all know it takes a lot longer for it to dry. I use PPG glasstite sealer it is super hard and is self leveling it can be sanded if needed and doesnt take but 1 coat it bonds with the wood or foam doesnt just cover it I have a couple balsa baits I have busted on the rocks and the sealer looks to have bonder .060 or better into the balsa

I have used JB Weld for this also most of the time I dip the hook in wax and place it in the moldthen patch with JB I nave done several molds this way my last was a football jig mold I modified to make a squirrel tail jig flat bottom recessed eye and wire bait keeper now all I need is the exact hooks and it will be perfected and ready for production

it was a little loose but didnt move at all when pouring. a little jb weld could be used but unnecessary

I have some also but i didnt even think of that either although it is the same principle as the PPG just in a different form the PPG is a solid to be mixed with clear