barr5150
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Everything posted by barr5150
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Super nice work for your 1st shot at it! -
Gotcha Mike. I threw it out there just to make sure I wasn't missing something. I'd like to think those Japanese builders make stuff so perfect it doesn't need to be tuned but it's just not possible. BTW - nice profile pic...SH4 is next on my list!
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Anyone ever try installing the line tie horizontal? I'm curious if there is an advantage or if your even able to tune the plug? http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af125/barr5150/horizontal%20line%20tie_zps3dji2zuh.jpg
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Looking good man!! -
X3 on the pigma pens. Best I found so far.
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BobP posted a few years ago that solarez has to be stirred around to agitate the wax flakes in the product. He claimed it wouldn't cure otherwise so I always do it. I will say I had better luck with the gloss formula than the low voc stuff I bought the last go around. The low voc version isn't what they claim it is. I am however really curious about the sanding sealer that showed up earlier in this post. That will be my next purchase.
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If it helps these are the bulbs I bought - http://www.solacure.com/sg4.html I'm not saying they don't work, just saying they don't do the job in 3 minutes.
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Yes, my rotator will hold around 50 and I do them all at the same time. The bulbs are new, maybe 30 hrs on them.
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If it helps, the lights in my setup came from the sister site on the solarez webpage. They aren't cheap ($100 shipped) for just 2 four foot bulbs but they do work. I wish they would cure a little quicker. A run of 50 plugs or so takes about 2 hours to be fully cured.
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Nedyarb- What type of wood are you sealing with this? I have been sealing balsa plugs with the low voc stuff and I agree, it stays tacky. I almost pulled the trigger on this stuff but was nervous it wasn't going to be tuff enough.
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Not sure how deep solarez soaks into the wood? Guess I'll cut a blank up and check it out. Definitely something to think about. BrianB, you don't have to turn it but I do. As a sealer not really a big deal on the 1st coat because allot soaks. I like it on the second though because it lets me keep more product on the bait when I cure it. Helps hide imperfections and raised grain hairs from the first dip.
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Trying to find the perfect clear coat is fun right? I really am curious about this stuff, I you end up trying it let us know. I have too much going on right now to experiment. On a side note, KBS isn't like the concrete sealers. After the first dip you can handle the plug within 24hrs. Not trying to sell you on it just giving you my experience with it. From what I read some guys hate it so take it for what it's worth.
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The theory sounds good and your correct, it would't take hardly any time and cost nothing to try it. I'll test it out on a few and see if it works. It could really be helpful if it does! Thanks.
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No. What would heating the blanks do? I'm curious. I never saw that come up anywhere before.
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I wouldn't take the time to polish every plug but that's just me. I have heard it does work though. I like dip, hang and forget products. I've been stuck on KBS for awhile now. There's a few tricks you gotta know to use it but it's definitely a dip and forget product. The shine is very good too. That doming resin looks promising...I wouldn't be scared of the price if it does what he says. I don't mind paying up for products if they save me time and give good results. If you try it let us know how it works, I'm curious.
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Just a note when using it as a sealer. I'm not sure what wood your using but on balsa the first dip is going to bubble pretty bad. I think as it soaks into the wood it pushes air out. Being patient here is the key. If you wait long enough the bubbles will stop coming to the surface, then you can cure it. If you cure the plug before the bubbles subside you'll have a ton of sanding to do. The second coat won't bubble near as bad, basically you can dip, hang, rotate and cure pretty quick.
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I originally bought the dual cure polyester gloss resin to try as a topcoat. I wasn't happy with the shine but found it works awesome as a sealer for balsa. http://solarez.com/products/solarez-polyester-gloss-resin/ When that quart ran out I bought the newer low voc version. It acts a little different then the original stuff but smells just as bad. I couldn't say how it looks as a topcoat, I don't use it for that. As a sealer I'm pretty happy with it. http://solarez.com/products/low-voc-dual-cure-polyester-resin/
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I've spent allot of time messing with solarez. I only use it for a sealer now but the same rules apply. If your finish is wavy it's because it's too thick. If your dipping it let more product run off the plug before turning it. The baits in the picture below were dipped and hung until they stopped dripping then rotated for probably an hour before I kicked the light on.
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I had the same issue and found I wasn't getting the plastic hot enough before turning the vacuum on. I'd personally follow RayburnGuy's instructions. That method works very well.
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The plugs look great! Nice work man! Unfortunately I can't be of much help with your ballast question but I know plugs that size can take allot of lead and still float easily. I'm more of a build one and try it guy. At least then you have a baseline to make changes from. I would think the more weight you could get in it the better to help with "blowing out" at higher trolling speeds. With 75 or 100' of line out I doubt hitting 4 - 5' will be too hard. You could always switch to lead core line too, I love that stuff!
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These are the boxes from clearbags. They were only $0.20 each. I didn't think it was bad at all. Very nice quality. Print the packing cards yourself, preferably at work so you don't have to pay for ink Also, look into a company called "Avery" for stickers and labels. Very affordable and you can do it all yourself without having to pay a print shop big dough.
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Thank you. Yes, I sell them, or in this case sold them. This is about a 1/3rd of what's due by the end of the month. -
Messy but it's my own little space where I can get some work done...
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