barr5150

Just wanted to post my results. I like it! Can't say what the long term durability is but for the short term this stuff works. I used it on a few of my flat sided wooden cranks. I put 4 coats on spread out over the coarse of 1 day. The next morning I put a final coat on. The same afternoon I installed the split rings and hooks and fished the hell out of them in a tournament the day after. Super easy to apply, holds up to hook rash well, dries quick, cheap and easy to get. In regards to the fumes I don't think I would use this stuff indoors but in the garage with the door open I think it's fine. Overall I think it's a decent product.

I bought a quart today and dipped a test bait. 4 coats about an hour apart. So far so good. We'll see what it looks like tomorrow.

Looks good! I'm definitely thinking about trying solarez. It's there a preferred place to buy it or just anywhere online?

Gotcha. Sorry I can't help with that product, I don't have any experience with it. I wouldn't be against trying it though. I have however used regular fiberglass resin before on different things but that stuff is pretty thick. I think it would add quite a bit of unwanted or unneeded weight. Just a guess.

Thank you! It would be very helpful.

I think it was rayburnguy that had a lengthy thread going about foil and tape a little while ago. Try and search it there was a ton of good info and suppliers listed there from what I remember.

Thanks for the detailed write up. I have been thinking about trying solarez but worry about the finish bring to dull. I have been using gst but the cure time is just too long. You wouldn't have any pictures of baits that have been top coated with solarez would you? Maybe something in the gallery? Thanks again.

I can't see how bondo would work as a sealer. The idea with a sealer is to soak into the wood and protect it. Unless there's a liquid bondo of some sort that I've never seen. The bondo I know would be too much work and too porous to use as a sealer.

I hate this hunt for the elusive perfect clear coat!! Thanks for the info I think I'm gonna give this stuff a try!

If it helps I use rustoleum cut with a bit of acetone for my base after sealing the blank twice with gst. I dip and hang them till dry. I also use gst as my topcoat. I've never had a problem. I can't see why rattle can wouldn't work.

How long after the last coat before you can handle the lure? I've been using gst and I like it but the cure time is killing me. Especially now that the season is coming on and everybody that wants something wants it yesterday! I need something that cures quicker. Also how's the odors? Thanks in advance!

I haven't but I saw a youtube video of a guy that used water slide decals. He actually made them first then applied them. Looks neat! You would just need to make sure your topcoats would play nice with them!

For me it's the sharpie pen. It's works best over colors without a lot of gloss. I sign my name, heat set it, over coat it with createx top coat or rattle can acrylic, heat set that then clear coat the entire lure. <a href="http://<a href="http://s1000.photobucket.com/user/barr5150/media/sharpie_zps52a8e75a.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af125/barr5150/sharpie_zps52a8e75a.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo sharpie_zps52a8e75a.jpg"/></a>

Thank you!

Which one is the hardener and which is the epoxy? I put mine in some craft store bottles and now I only have yellow and white. I only weighed etex prior to mixing. Now I know why I was having trouble!

Mine are made from poplar bodies 2 5/8" long and a 1/2" wide. Through wire is .041 stainless and the props are both 1 1/4". Belly weight is 2 grams. http://s1000.photobucket.com/user/barr5150/media/1517446_530853173696457_532869312_n_zpse64e023d.jpg.html

The eyes in the ones I bought are all half round. Good quality blanks but the ones with rattles sink. Last I looked he was still out of stock on the blanks without rattles.

HaHa! So far yes.

If it helps, this is my setup. Basically just a old $10 garage sale router mounted to the underside of my workbench. I put a small piece of lexan over the top so the lure bodies slide easy. The key was the router bit. I think I paid around $25 for the bit I'm using now as opposed to the $5 bit I started with. The quality bits cut much nicer and don't want to grab the wood as easy. If you use a similar setup make sure you note the cross hatched area I marked in the pic. That represents the only usable side of the router bit. Get much outside of that and you be searching for the lure body!

Poplar is considered a hardwood and fine for lures as long as you seal it correctly. I think it turns nice, even with my cheap tools. Dowels are available at menards/home depot which makes it nice too.

Topcoating has to be the worst part of lure building! I haven't used solarez but I am curious about it. It seems pretty simple to use. Currently I'm one of the concrete sealer guys. It works well but it's not without it's own problems. Whatever you decide make sure you get away from that 5min epoxy. That stuff yellows quick man!

UPDATE - I got the little jons done. Createx paint, 4 coats of GST, 5mm rings and #6 36246R Mustad hooks. The ones with rattles sink. The ones without float. They sit in the water nose down, tail up just like the factory ones. Nice blanks in my opinion. Anyone get anywhere on the fat papa's? I'm curious.

Anybody try the satin GST yet? http://www.menards.com/main/landscapeestimator/additionaloptions/sealer/gst-international-satin-seal-concrete-sealer/p-1762085-c-5651.htm Are there other flat finish options?

I've had good luck with one-shot lettering enamel. I use the back end of any drill bit that has a slightly beveled or chamfered edge. Flat cut ones don't work for me for some reason? Dip the bit in the paint, dab the bit once on a piece of paper then once on the bait. Down side is this paint takes a long time to dry so to paint the pupil you have to wait until the next day. Up side is the paint is very opaque so you can do any color you want over any base color without multiple coats.