wingnut

TJ's tackle has got them for $5 glued in the pvc.

If your replacing a broken guide,cut through the epoxy and thread onto the guide foot so you don't damage the blank then peel or pry the rest off. It seems the epoxy just encases the thread wrap and does not adhear that well to the blank Itself. Hope that helps.

Just wanted to post a pic of some jigs I used my powder paint airbrush on. Like a proud Pa Pa

I bought the Twistech bender from barlows, Makes pefect eyes every time,easy to use. It has a .031 limit also but has an upgrade kit to bend .041. Barlows site has a video showing the tool in use.

Every rod you build will be better than the last so go easy on the top of the line componants. I agree that the SIC guides are probably more than you need and really pricey. A lot of builders us the fuji alconites as good quality low priced guides. Also check out the manufacturer closeout blanks at mudhole. Might find a good blank at a reduced price there. good luck on your project.

Hey brian, Just bought the powder paint airbrush from TJs tackle. Very satisfied with their products and tech support. Best price I could find plus timely response to my questions. They also have some good tutorial videos on using the airbrush. Waiting on my compessor to try it out, like a kid at christmas. I also bought a fluid bed cup with the medium for my 2" fluid bed that I rigged up myself. Sorry If I sound like a commercial for TJ"s but when you find someone who provides a good service at a good price the news needs to be passed on.

As a fly tyer I'm a beginner,but the fly you described sounds like it should work. I'm targeting perch in 3 to 6' of water with a small presentation when they're not aggressive. On the days when they seem too lazy to strike but just swim up to the bait and flair their gills. I've never used dubbing. Could I use a chennile Instead. Also Is there a pic that I could see so I could try to get it close to what it's supposed to look like.

No go on the thread, Would not connect. I looked at the threads below and didn't see anything about masking with powder paint. Hey at least I spelled paint right this time(LOL). My powder air brush is on it's way so I'm not really interested in spraying liquid powder through a airbrush.

A question for the powder painters. Is it possible to under coat then mask with a fish netting material and overcoat with another color to get the fish scale look. Seems like the masking material would stick to the heated under coat paint but I see a lot of scales on jigs so I thought I would throw it out there, you never know if you don't ask. Thanks for your replys.

Any fly tyers have a certain fly that works for them under the Ice. Have tryed tying craft hair from janns on the shank of a few jigs with mixed results. Picked up some cone heads and cyclops eyes today with plans to thread them on some small hooks and tie some sort of tail on the end. looking for any good suggestion from some experienced fly tyers unlike myself. I think the normal procedure would be to put the cone head on first then lay down a thread base add the tail then work back toward the head. But I need to put a cone head on then cyclops eyes to make a weighted body and add the tail. The problem is not being able to put a long thread base down to keep the tail from sliding. Any advice would be appreciated.

I agree the quick setting epoxy isn't as strong but there shouldn't be much stress in that area of the blank. I have my drying motor set up to dry the epoxy top coat also but I use a wooden dowel attatched to a a 6" foam ring. The dowel plugs in to the dryer motor chuck so I can get dual use out of it. I've been bit with the rod building and lure making bug. Good luck on your project.

No pics yet just soldering them up, so far no paint

As far as coating with flex-coat after they're painted. I've had good results with threadmaster. Same type of product but you still need to buy the syringes to get the mix accurate. Those eyes really look good, was there an indentation to put the eyes into in the casting.

I pitched the packages they came in and put them in a tackle tray but I'm almost positive they're mustad sproat hooks, large ringed eye, gold 3366G. Got them at janns, thats the largest eye hook they had in a size 8 or 6. Too small of an eye for what I need so I make a 1/8" to 3/16' loop with a shank long enough to fit the blade size I'm soldering to. Made a new version this year with a larger blade for deeper water with loops at both ends. The spinner blades flaping on top and the hook swinging free on the bottom. The sproat hook with the large eye seems to work fine for this.

Ice is still two months away here in southern Michigan but I've already got the bug to start making some Ice jigs. My favorite and most productive In shallow water is the Arnold jig, A small teardrop with a #8 hook and two Triple 0 colorado blades attatched to the large eye of the hook, that flap up and down bouncing off the sides of the teardrop making a clacking noise. My problem making these is that I can't find a size 6 or 8 hook with a large enough eye to let the blades flap easily. Bending .035 wire into a loop and soldering next to the hook Is what I'm doing now but it's tough to do on these little jigs. Does anyone have a source for short shanked large eyed hooks in a small size or share your favorite jigs for perch fishing through the Ice.

Looking through some old posts I ran across the website for TJ's tackle. After watching the videos on spraying powder paint, I think I'll get the powder paint airbrush. Looks like it will work fine on spoons and blades. Has anyone Tried to modify the airbrush to spray thinner lines. I haven't seen any diferent sized orifices for sale to change the spray pattern.

I think you're right about cleaning the bearing. That probably would have taken care of the problem. Had I known it was an ARB ( I thought that meant anti-rust bearing ) I would have cleaned,re-lubed and re-installed. Looking at the bearing, It looked a little strange for a regular needle bearing. Live and learn, thanks for straightening me out on that and thank you for sharing your expertise, it's definitely welcome. Chances are I'll run Into the same problem in the future.

As long as you're happy with the guides that are on the rod call shakespear and find out which guides were put on originaly. I had the same Question a couple years ago about replacing the stripper guide on my St Croix premier and found out they used Batson guides as OE. It could only be one guide that you need to replace. Look them over with a magnifying glass and see if one is nicked,cracked or if they are starting to groove.

Warm temperatures can reduce the pot life on your epoxy. Pouring the mixed epoxy out on aluminum foil and working from there will extend the pot life some. It also gives you a good place to pop the bubbles also. I use Threadmaster and really like it and although I've never used flex coat I think they are similar products.

How does it work. Mix powder paint with the fluid then brush on?

Found some Info using the search but I still need to ask. Does Spraying powder paint work well for multi-colors on spoons, spinner blades and lead head jigs. What are the options for srayguns and which ones can be used for finer detail. I don't think spraying powder will come close to the detail of an airbrush but would like to know if there is a unit that could be adjusted for finer work.

Thanks for the replys. I've been pretty well satisfied with the reels performance. I've since replaced the reels with Okuma Alumina's, which seem comparible in quality. If I ever bought a top quality reel I would probaby never look back. If the repair goes well I'll pass these reels on to my son who could use them. Taking the bearing out and re-lubing might do the trick but I've alredy ordered the replacement parts. I'm not a reel repairman but it looks like it's a gear on the outside with grooves for the anti-revers to lock into when engaged and a bushing on the inside of the gear. The slipping looks like it's going on between the bushing and the gear.

Yes It does. Doesn't take much pressure to get it spinning backwards either. Called quantum yesterday, very helpful. Right away said it was the clutch under the rotor. Claimed it was a normal wear item should only cost about $20.00 for parts and shipping. Pretty good deal to get the reel working again so I can have a matched pair of reels again. Hopefully it works out, I was surprised how quickly the service rep had an answer.

My thoughts exactly about the quality and value of the reel. Having two of them alike makes trying to get the one fixed to make a pair again more worthwhile. Didn't think to send to back to quantum. I'll look up their site and see how their costomer service is. thanks for the reply and the right on target Idea.