EdL

Try going to the top of 'Soft Plastics' page and do a search for 'Silicon Mold' There will be a bunch of posts listed. One titles something like RTV mold for $1.50 has pages of discussion about using tubes of silicon sealers/adhesives. One of the best tools for finding info is the search function (and its free and fast). There's s-o-o-o much information on TU if you just look for it. Almost too much but there's a lot of things tried and discussed.

What BobP says. I have 3 different brands of airbrushes one of which is the VL. Mine came with 3 sizes of needles and nozzles. So it should cover the range of paints and details needed for lure painting. I took an intro airbrushing class where I live and the main thing the instructor tried to hammer in is to practice and practice some more. AND DON"T GET DISCOURAGED. His opinion was that it took about 40 hours of actual painting time to get the feel of a new brush. Then there's the other things to learn -paint type and characteristics (pigment, viscosity), matching air pressure needed for the desired spray pattern,dealing with the compressor, moisture traps, and the list goes on. One tool you can master is to use this forums search function - the little box in the upper right hand corner of this forum can open the door to many tips and opinions - did I say opinions. Understand that what works for one person may not work for you. For some folks cheap is best, for others its 'you get what you pay for'. I found that I use all three airbrushes depending on what I want to do. I can't say I have learned all three airbrushes but each have features that work for what I want to do. Also there are airbrushing forums too that may help you. But be careful you can spend a lot of time reading about it and cuts into practice time and fishing time.

try an internet search using 'fishing lure making forums'. There are other forums out there (too many to just list here) but there's only one TU and its the first site I go to. Other sites have posts that for an answer to go to TU. By searching you can save the names & links to your browser for the ones you like. Will save you typing in the names.

Looks like a shiny spot behind the bill slot. Did you seal the wood with something? What did you use? Did you sand the sealer? What did you use for primer or base coat? Did you heat set each color of createx application? It may be that sanding the sealer or base coat would help with the adhesion. Or there may be a compatability issue with the sealer.

Whether it's Solarez or any other product do yourself a big favor and google the product and find the manufacturer's site. Look for the description, Material Data Safety Sheet, and any application instructions. Looking for the cheapest best product today may not turn out to be cheapest best when you don't research the safety aspects of the product and a few years later you have big medical problems cause you didn't take follow or take into account the MSDS safety information.

I would think big companies are paying for a lawyer(s) on retainers or staff anyway. They don't pay extra for a lawyer to go after 1 guy or a whole another company to protect their product and product name. And if they don't go after one and not another then they wouldn't be serious about protecting what they want to protect in the eyes of a judge or jury. It does take much for them to send out a cease and desist letter.

Thanks guys for the exact name of the products. I've read all the threads so far and as my brain cells are becoming more mature I'm remembering less (just ask my wife) and easily get confused. Guess I'd better get to builiding all the lure I want to try now before they put me away.

I have a favor to ask - when you post about Solarez would you also say which specific product you are trying out? They offer several products and I'm having a hard time figuring out which one everyone is trying. They offer vinyl, poly-ester, clear gloss, etc. Some of you have said which ones you've tried and what you experienced. And that's cool. I can decide if the results are the kind I could use or should avoid.

I can get in and navigate but response time is like Etex or epoxy curing on a drying wheel.

Ran across this issue with rubber seals and solvent cleaners and reducers while researching airbrushes trying to decide which one to get. Ran across some on-line suppliers that will rebuild or supply teflon seals for the more common airbrushes. So there are possibilites to replace the seals. Also read that using cleaners and solvents with ammonia such as window cleaners are bad for chrome finishes. Airbrushes are simple in concept but a bit tricky with a few gotchas. But if you spend a little time learning all you can about them they will serve you well.

Now that's what make TU a great site. Thanks for sharing Gino. You da man!

Ditto Ben's comments

Now this is handy as 2 pockets on a shirt. Nice build. Thanks for sharing all the details.

There you go. Now just convince the overseas producers of copies.

What about just selling a bag with a hook and weight and include " free" baits. The 'pricing' should reflect the value of the bag and hook and work packaging them. You're not selling baits right as your giving them away. So how can they call you out as selling baits you make and give away. Just sayin.... Isn't this how those do-dads they sell on TV for cheap and don't say how much shipping and handling work????

http://www.eagerplastics.com/cc.htm This web page info suggest 1:1 mix volume or weight for CC 200 series. Could this be the problem? Just guessing. MIght check with manufacturer to be sure. Maybe they changed something and the paper work is correct while web site is not. You also may be right with primer interaction. Good luck figure it out.

Ben - I looked at 24 hour epoxy but found that pushed the wife's button too much. But 3 hr. would work. I also tried automotive paint and clean on a few fishing rods. Next thing I found out with this finish she wanted me to repaint her car. That stopped me from auto clear.

Sounds like an opportunity. Or can read 13 pages of info and photos. I'm still thinking about using this stuff as I've already invested in E-tex and 30-min clear epoxy and want to use it up. Hate to waste something that already works for me. I can see where production guys would like something quicker but I'm retired and build for myself. Wife leaves me alone when I'm building so epoxy is the "best" product for me.

May I suggest doing a search in the Hardbait section of this TU board usin PVC as keyword. You should find Numerous threads about PVC boards, sources of boards and advice on using PVC for cranks and swimbaits. Should help you get started on using this material.

It's those little details that gets me. Thanks for the tip. I will try to remember to position the bait with the hook hangers up so gravity can help hold the ballast in while the epoxy cures. But at my age I'm having trouble remembering all those little details.

If you want to try thinner bill material how about considering circuit board material. Search here or internet for G-10 Material. I found a model airplane site that shows how to make your own G-10 material. http://www.mnbigbirds.com/FIberglass%20Lay-up.htm Granger and McMasters also carry thinner material. But this won't get you clear bills. There will be fiberglass cloth in it for strength in the circuit board material. If you want thinner lxan you could cut out a rough shape bill then sand down to thinner thickness. Its more work and you'd probably want to get finer sandpaper to get the bill somewhat clear. Also I remember a post where scratches could be removed by coating bill with a thin coat of resin.

I can see it both ways -finding out different ways from what others have shared or just finding out for myself. Most guys are willing to share what they have found out the hard way and share it so others can shorten the learning curve. I too sometimes get the sense that with all the information here on the site (and there's tons of it) that some just don't want to take the time to search out the answers already here. Just want the quick answer and just take. Sometimes its good to have a good rant and then move on. Most people on this site have personal pride in what they do and time invested and don't want to see the craft of lure building get a corrupted attitude. And yes some have limited time and budgets. But we all have the option to log in or not. We can choose to take or give. It up to the person. But all in all I think we should respect that this this site is still No. 1 for learning and try to keep it that way. I have seen this on custom rod building sites that I also visit. And it can get brutal between some folks. So far not on this site.

Try googling the internet with "modeling beeswax". The search function is an amazing friend. But be careful sometimes even friends can steer you wrong. Just look at the information and decide for yourself if it is true or poo.

Listen to these guys as they have given the best advise on coatings. I found one that works for me and how I build lures (which is not often enough) so price, availability of product, storeage, ease of mastering the technique of applying the finish, curing method,time to full cure, and durability. All these factors went into my choice of finish. I build for me and not for production. Pick one and work with it some rather than hop from one to another to another. The one that works for you is the best one (for you). Happy New Year and best wishes for everyone.

For reference to Apple products users out there - Apple does NOT let you view videos in Adobe Flash format. (Apple and Adobe won't play nice with each other) So try to find the video on you-tube or a PC or something other than an apple. There may be 3rd party apps out there but I am not aware of one that will work on ipad, iphone. Suggest if user wants to share a video put a link in the post to you-tube or some other file share place.