EdL

try using the internet search function. I got this as one of the results: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/22794-zoom-tequila-sunrise/

Merry Christmas to all. Lets not also forget those who serve this country giving up the ultimate price whether in the military, fire, or police service. Hope those clowns in Washington get a lump of coal for Christmas.

Yep. The main thing is to keep learning, have fun, and improve. The next is to share the learnings. I don't seek perfection just improvement. And if the lures catch a fish that's icing on the cake.

Something to think about when adding anything to paint or even if trying something not specifically made to lube the parts of an airbrush- Does the stuff have anything in it like silicone that would mess up the paint or the top coat finish? Even if the paint flows and drys on the lure if there is anything like silicone some finishes/topcoats may not behave properly. Best to experiment first on something else like a dowel, pvc tube, or an old botched up lure (unfortunately I have a few) to see if there is a problem rather than try on a lure you have some build time invested.

Used the search function (yeah I try to follow my own advise that Search funcion is my friend) to find out what Hazmail put together. He is another guy who can put together anything to make his lure building world easier and smarter. Here's the link to the thread that I think Mark is refering: http://www.tackleund...ge__hl__hazmail By the way there are a bunch of threads about rounding hardbaits.

Try googling Createx Thinner. There are some formulas for homemade thinner/reducer. Some versions call for Windex. But I have read that any window cleaner with ammonia can be bad for plating on airbrushes. The ammonia will attack chrome. But some use straingt windex to thin createx. Just make sure you really clean your airbrush when finished painting to get rid of any ammonia residue. Other formulas use water, isopropanol and Pledge with future shine acrylic floor polish. It has some clean acrylic polymer in it. That helps with createx flow thru an airbrush. I thought wally's has the floor polish. There are 2 types of Pledge -one for wood floor and one for tile. I think the one for tile is the one to use. Oh I think the super lube is to lubricate the o-rings, valve, and needle to make it easier to control the paint/air flow.

Nice work and good video. Next you should do a "Good Year of Trout catching" video.

Hey Greg- you did the right thing and explained your situation. And Saltfisher stepped up and put together a version to make available. Then it was posted in this thread that the cookbook could be downloaded and uploaded on the forum and available to anyone registered on this forum. I even took a stab and made the cookbook in txt and Word format and said it was in the pinned Plastics Cookbook thread at the top of the Soft Baits section and available. Its too bad that someone won't take the time to read the whole thread to figure it out that they can have the cookbook anytime. If he would have put in the little effort to just download the cookbood instead of taking the time it took to hammer you about just sending you a copy it would work out better for everyone. So don't worry about the hassle. Its his problem not yours. It was also requested that if someone wanted to add a color or recipe they could just add it to the cookbook and upload it to keep it current and up to date. Don't think that is happening either. I understand some aren't as computer savy and it is a problem for some. But if they can download a file and open it or type up an hassle email they can edit a document and upload it. That's part of why many like this site. Sharing the effort. Or as some said pay it forward. Sometime I think if you offer a free service then next thing is someone will get upset when want you don't want to clean out their garage too. Sorry for venting. Now I feel better.

Just exactly what are you using to make the eyes. Epoxy? What type- 5min, 20 or 30 minute? I don't build my own eyes but build fishing rods and one of the issues for finishing rod wraps is bubbles. For the most part it's technique. Basically to minimize bubbles is to use a slower cure epoxy and mix to EXACT ratio specified by manufacturer. When mixing don't stir rapidly to introduce more bubbles. Use a solid plastic rod or stick not wooden so as not introduce a rough surface item into epoxy to create small bubbles. I pour the epoxy out onto a piece of aluminum foil so the mixed epoxy can flow out into a puddle to let any bubbles rise to surface and burst out. Also you can blow onto the epoxy puddle thru a soda straw and the heat of your breath will break the bubbles. Some will use a heat source such as a hair dryer to lightly (I mean lightly not direct blow onto the puddle) to break away bubbles. That leaves you with virtually bubble free epoxy. The heat will change the viscosity to be thinner allowing bubbles to rise. The cure is a chemical process so lightly heating should not speed up cure. Only excessive heating. I suggest you think about the tool you use to transfer the epoxy to the eye. Does it possibly introduce bubble. Also consider how to manipulate the epoxy onto the eye or form for the eye. The more you work it the more likely chance to introducing bubbles. Check out some UV cure resins on internet for other options. Saw somewhere a guy who used hot glue (clear) stick to make eyes.

Lots to be Thankful for including the TU family. Be safe, give thanks to everyone around you, and enjoy what the day represents. (and don't overdo the food, don't overdo the food, don't overdo the food - I have to keep telling myself that). Ed

Thanks Mark. I'm about to do a swimbait and was thinking some thin plastic that would hold paint shaped to a fin and pinned into the last section. Now you got me thinking about other ways. That's why TU rocks.

What are you guys using for tail fin material??

Also checkout Ravenlures link for the safety issues. While UV spectrum is all around us I wondered if looking at the light or building a light box using tanning lights might be a problem if UV lights are used extensively. Tanning salons have eye protection as some exposures are more lengthy than suggested to cure baits. Its probably more hazardous to ones health with using other chemicals (solvents, gasoline,etc.) than UV lights but its probably worth thinking about how you plan to use UV lights and decide if your eyes need protection. I use to work in the chemical industry and safety was always promoted at my company. Your free to do as you wish.

Listen to Mark. I have switched to PVC too for all the same reasons. You can find PVC trim and brick mold at the big box stores but it won't be AZEK that the pro-builders use. Some of the stuff is more poreous and needs to sanded a bit more to get a smooth finish. But it will work if your anxious to start out. It works for me as I haven't found a local AZEK supplier. I really like the feature of not having to seal and can check out ballasting in water right away.

Hey Mark - I got curious and did an internet search and found this one (based on price number) and wavelength falls into UV-A specrum. Cheap enough. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q70A0G/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1/178-9264675-2303966?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=1N5MATPGVM6ZQZK1FCS4&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_i=B001R9HBLE

What about using a spot welder to hit a few points along the way. Just an idea. Quick tacking points that may not ruin temper of hook. Did a quick internet search and harbor freight has some. I haven't ever used one so I don't know if it is too big/hot to destroy wire but thinking out loud. Maybe some body ou there has more experience with spot welders.

What about exposure to high temperatures like plastic for worms, craws and creature baits? Some of the plastic gets heated to 350 deg F.

I don't shoot thru an airbrush but use a mini-gun. I use strong solvents. Hot lacquer thinner for starts. For some airbrushes that don't state specifiically that the o-ring-seals are solvent proof will eventually have a hard time with solvents like MEK, Lacquer thinner and such.

Suggest you use the search function on this site. There are several posts on vacuum forming that include some homemade version and methods. You didn't say how thick your lexan is.

Yes you can use automotive clear on baits, reels furniture but not on the dog or cat. They won't sit still long enough. Try using the search function on this web site and other tackle sites. Much has been written about which automotive clear people like to use and bait prep. As to how first follow manufactures recommendations for mixing and applying. The baits should have their paints jobs dryed or cured completely. And wear proper personal protection -gloves and mask as some auto clears aand solvents have some stuff in it that is not good to breath. After all the dog and cat aren't as dumb as one might think.

You didn't give much information to work with other than 4 HP shop vac. So we don't know what size form you have (surface area), what type of plastic film (thickness) what kind of baits ( simple sided or lots of details like gills, eyes, fins) or how much heat will be applied. I would say try putting a 12" x12" piece of film or even paper on you vacuum form and see how easy it is to pull off. That should be a start to see if there is enough vacuum. Then try out with some scrap materials and the film you intend to use. It doesn't take much vacuum force if the plastic film area is large.

Sorry your not getting the answer to your question. I can't help either as I haven't gotten to pouring yet. But the advise is still good. Making your own tackle can become habit forming - you ought to see how much stuff I bought to make just to make a lure. My wife knows where I am when I turn up out of voice range and she's great about leaving me alone at the bench. Try looking at some of the mold suppliers and see which ones have what molds. That way when you get bit by the 'bug' you'll already have researched what's out there.

I make small crankbaits and topwaters and use small diameter wire. I normally use round pliers but decided to make a homemade wire bender just cause I like to make my own tools for the challenge and the fun. I would up the size a bit for larger wire sizes. Ed How I made a wire bender.pdf How I made a wire bender.pdf How I made a wire bender.pdf How I made a wire bender.pdf How I made a wire bender.pdf How I made a wire bender.pdf How I made a wire bender.pdf How I made a wire bender.pdf How I made a wire bender.pdf

X2 on blueticks comment. I would have told the customer that I personally check out the baits I make for quality control purposes. You pay good money for a quality bait that you expect me to backup. So I do periodic quality control. If you just want a bait without warranty just tell me. Oh by the way why aren't you at work??? I saw a sign somewhere that said basically "Price for item-$$. Price for item with complaints, badgering or nit-picking - 5 x $$. I thought about getting that and putting on the wall in plain sight. Its one thing to be a good customer but one that crosses the line is one I would deal with ONE time.

You didn't state what you used for a mold and if you use a release agent. It would help if you describe your process completely too.