EdL

http://www.vssm.org/...-lector-manual/ Found it using internet search "color c-lector instruction manual" Hope this gets you a manual. Got fooled into buying one years ago. In theory it may work but didn't help me. You still gotta find the fish.

I'm guessing here but one of the differences is geography. By that I mean where the tree grows. Alaska White ceder is probably from the northwest part of the country. Other white cedar grows elsewhere too. Looking on the internet at multiple listings white cedar is a common name. If you got a mill nearby or a source that specializes in hardwood they should know where their lumber is sourced. Big box stores and chain stores probably don't and likely had gotton something call "white cedar" (consider where they get the rest of the goods they sell). But if its all you can get, then try it out and see how it works out. The wood properties are only one aspect to how a lure will behaves in the water. I'm thinking the fish don't ask what type of wood you got in that bait if they like the action and they are hungry.

If I remember right there are Iwata air brush hoses that have 1/8" connection for the airbrush and 1/4" connection for the compressor. If you existing compressor has something larger than 1/4" connection then you need to get a fitting from the hardware store. I use a shop compressor and I put one of those 1/4" moisture/oil filter-regulator combo between the compressor at the end of the shop hose. Got it a lowes. I live in a high humidity area and if the compressor run for a while it will build up heat. When the air pressure gets dropped through the regulator the air will cool down dropping out the moisture in the hotter air. I do this as a precaution. You may not need it. I also use the additional filter regulator to better control the set pressure at the airbrush. Just remember to set the compressor pressure regulator to a pressure below the max pressure rating of the 1/4' filter regulator. You don't want to have the little regulator fail.

Hey no big deal just wanted you to get more responses to your question. I don't always check out the homebrew tools section often and there may be some others as well that skip it. Saw you reposted in the hardbaits and hope you get a bunch more responses.

I'd go with the HP-BR. Both brushes are good but the HP-BR offers a couple of features that would influence me. Like Bass guy says everyone has their opinion and they are entitled. The HP-BR spec sheet I looked at says it has a solvent proof seal. I didn't find a spec for the BS. Having a solvent proof seal allows you to clean soak your brush in some strong stuff in case your brush gets really clogged. After a while cheap rubber or neoprene o-rings will deteriorate sooner. The other option for the BR is you can purchase a second needle/nozzle (0,5mm) in case you need to spray thicker opaque paints or cover more material. The standard supplied needle/nozzle size is 0.3 mm. The BS only has a 0.35mm -sort of a middle of the road size. They both will work but really you need ot decide what you will be using the airbrush to do. What size baits 2-3" or 5 to 7" size baits. The cup size is small so if you are doing large baits then you'll be refilling the cup alot for base coats. Also will you be doing one or two baits at a time or 10 to 12 at a time. Cup size may be something to consider. Also do a search on this forum if you already haven't on airbrushes. Lots of info to sort through to help you. But if you can afford it the Iwata brush is a good brush. Me I have a Paasche VL (i bought long ago), a german Harder-Steenbech Ultra and an Iwata HP-CS (got at Hobby Lobby with 40% off coupon) and larger needle/nozzle. I use all of them depending what I'm working on. I look at it like building shed. I would use a skill saw, chop saw and table saw and use the better tool for the task to do framing, rafters, steps and trim.

So why is this question about a purchase of a supplier tool in the HOME BREW TOOL area and not in the HARD BAIT area where the answer will come faster from painters of crankbaits?

Don't get me wrong. I am of the ilk to try to make thinkgs myself when I can. But I am already pushing the limits with the war department on my tackle making and rod wrapping so I'm doing OK in the garage but not cooking on the stove. I say it's best to experiment and be careful not to do any harm to yourself first or anyone else standing nearby. That how I lean. I was just doing a brain *art out loud with the money deal. The coffee idea is a great one though. Instead of throwing out the grounds just soak some plastics in it or make some concentrate with oil to add as scent.

Let see- put something in an oil and cook it and you'll have a great scent. OK Put in a dollar bill and you bait will smell like money. Put in a turd and you bait will stink. Got it. Never mind I'll stick with store bought scents.

Bopper-Your likely to get answers to your question if you would post in the hardbait section of this forum. This section is for members to submit tutorials and actual how to do something, Questions are usually posted in the appropriate sections. Also try the search function at the hardbait section for "through wire" and you should get lots of information. Your question has been asked before. Me- I use 18 gauge SS wire for my crankbaits for bass. Strong enough but easy enough to bend and form.

This one has been discussed before. Try doing a Hardbait section forum search using "Color bleed" (include the double quotes). Several threads with good suggestions and possible causes. I have considered DN but it seems to take a longer work flow (many days and patience) . i have that much patience so I stay with Devcon epoxy which is working for me.

yes - now the link works to the cookbook in pdf.

I use thru wire for my bass crankbaits and cut a slot into the PVC bodies. Then seal it with J-B-Weld-8237-Kwik-Plastic . It waterproof and strong. May could use Kwik Plastic like Mark says above. Or maybe use to fill in smaller holes so you don't need the dowel plugs. Makes the whole body waterproof and eliminates or at least minimize the need for sealing the body before painting/topcoating. May be worth a test of strength by putting a screweye into a piece of PVC your using with the Kwik Plastic as a plug or glue. Then tie on a line to the screweye and see how much force is needed to rip out the screweye. Just thinking outloud. Your idea is giving me some ideas to try.

Saltfisher's Cookbook in Word 97-2003 format and plain text format: Any one adding formulas/receipe to this list please share (in the many formats people are wanting) PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (word 97-2003 format).doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (plain text).txt PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (word 97-2003 format).doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (plain text).txt PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (word 97-2003 format).doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (plain text).txt PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (word 97-2003 format).doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (plain text).txt PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (word 97-2003 format).doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (plain text).txt PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (word 97-2003 format).doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (plain text).txt PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (word 97-2003 format).doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (plain text).txt PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (word 97-2003 format).doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (plain text).txt PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (word 97-2003 format).doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK (plain text).txt

Word 2010

OK you cookbook hounds, I put my copy of Saltfisher's cookbook in the pinned Soft Plastics Cookbook thread. Thanks Redg8r for the OK. File size is small so not increase in upload size needed.

Salftfishers doc version of a cookbook attached: PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK.doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK.doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK.doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK.doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK.doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK.doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK.doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK.doc PLASTIC COLOR COOKBOOK.doc

Nope not I-phone issue. Just tried it on my laptop and the link isn't working for me either.

There is no plastics 'bible' talked about in this thread but just a recipe book or listing of colors/formulas. Try going to the pinned Soft Plastic Cookbook at the top of the "Soft Plastics" section of this forum. There 10 web pages full of receipes and some hints to start out with. Some guys are just gathering up recipes and putting them in an electronic spreadsheet or word document and making it available to others so you don't have to log on and search the on-line cookbook for a receipe. Looks like Saltfisher is trying to step up on compiling the recipe book with some color photos. Good luck Saltfisher. Quite a chore your taking on. Be careful or it will cut into your pouring time and using the baits time.

OK Kris try these steps. 1.Start at the source of the air- at the compressor (you did not say what kind of compressor-diaphram or piston type) diconnect the A/B hose and check to see that there is plenty of pressure but mainly air flow coming from the compressor. If not check to see if the pressure regulator is adjustable and letting air get pass it. It can have plenty of pressure but if there is a problem with the compressor or the regulator if there is one of not putting enough air flow into the hose. Its flow that makes the paint spray in the brush. Pressure just puts more energy in moving the air flow. If that checks out then its not the compressor. 2.Next check the A/B hose to see if it is blocked. Try blowing in one end and if it flows easily then the hose is not the problem. If it's hard to blow then the hose has a problem. Try another hose. 3. You didn't say what Airbrush you are using and if you have any MAC valves, filters, or fittings between the air hose and the A/B. Check out those parts to see if they could be restricting the air flow. 4. If all that is OK then the problem is in the A/B. And that is another discussion but it boils down to a clean airbrush. Search this web site for cleaning airbrushes for hints and tips on this part. THere are several about ABs that were thought to be clean only to find out otherwise. There are a lot of small air passages that can get clogged. It helps with diagnosing problems with a little more deatils about your exact setup. It may be that someone else who has that setup may dial right in to the problem based on their experience. Good luck. Hope this helps.

Hey Greg - I understand your situation. And mucho thanks for putting the spreadsheet out there. I wonder why the Plastics Cookbook on TU doesn't have a downloadable version at this point. So when a new recipe is uploaded anyone that is a member could just download the new page. Your gracious support of creating and sharing the fruits of your labor is much appreciated. But it can be a full time activity to send everyone a copy. I got one from you and I tried to make an index page in excel to be able to go directly to the recipe but didn't figure it out. So I did one in MS Word but dealing with links and so on made it a pain in the behind. At some point it cuts into makin, pourin and usin 'em.

I tell kids to pay attention in school cause you never know how you can use the stuff they try to teach in chemistry class. You can use that stuff in mixing epoxy. Epoxy manufacturers say to mix Part A and Part B in equal amounts of volume. That's one given. Another given is that each part has a property called density. In science density is a property of mass (or weight) per unit volume. So part A has a density and part B has a density. So if you know the density of each part you can mix the Part A and Part B using the mass or weight of each part. Just gotta know what the density of each part and that you can get from the manufacture. To get a mix of equal volume means you have to mix different weights of each part depending on the density of the part. If one part is heavier than the other part then more weight will be needed of that part. I say use whatever methods works for you. If you have a scale that measures accurately then you got a choice. Mr Spillman (RIP) would be proud of me that I remember this from his chemistry class. What will get you is getting sloppy about mixing the parts using either weight or volume. Somebody else can explain the math part of school.

I don't do any pouring so I don't have any experience. BUT how about one of those food warming trays. Put the POP molds on them, plug the warmer in and let it slowly heat the molds. Like I said just an idea to warm up the molds. I thought about microwaving them but the mold may not have enough moisture in it and a quick heat might cause the mold to fail after a few cycles of heat, cool down, heat, cool down. Maybe somebody has already figured this out.

Someone else has one too. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/24992-an-actual-plastics-cookbook/ Maybe you guys could combine them and put them out there for us less computer tool savy guys. Ed

And if it lasts for more than 4 hrs call the doctor????? Never mind. Sorry this thread got off track.

Like Ben says. I used this method for my last batch of cranks.. Works for me and its better than guessing. With PVC bodies it takes the 'sealing wood before dunking' step out of the process as the pvc is water proof. I use inline wire method for hook holders and line ties and put it in a groove slot in the body. Then fill in the slot with PCV putty (white epoxy for PVC from homies). No worries about water proofing. I even put on the split rings and hooks to get the weight amount. I figure the paint and finish coats will offset by shape for bouyancy. A tip: Some PVC trim boards will have more bouyancy than some woods so you might find that it may take more ballasting for the body shape in PVC than for wooden bodies. But you will find that out after a couple of builds and get a feel for shaping the body to accomodate the ballast.