EdL

Excellent videography! Thanks for sharing.

Guess BryanC is wanting us to use search engines Huh. Here's what I found: \http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLYURETHANE-CLEAR-COAT-NONE-YELLOWING-HIGH-GLOSS-1-QRT-/310219352478 Don't know if its the same cause there was all kinds of hits on just max seal -swimming pool to gypsum board. Anybody else tried the clear??

Ben - You got this figured out. Do your trial and error before you do the actual installation. I like it.

And don't forget that fishing line materials & weigth will also impart some effect on lure action. Lure shape and type (bill no bill, slope or round nose). Ballasting location. The list is quite large. So calculate all you want but the proof will be in the actual use testing. The table is useful as a starting point. Thanks for the information.

Check the packaging. Most suppliers will state whether the expoxy dries clear or amber. Also can check online specs. Also check to see if the epoxy cures water PROOF or water RESISTANT.

All good info but as noted not all airbrushes are the same. Also not mentioned is that airbrushes come with a certain size needle and nozzle. Some are supplied very small and would make the paint choice VERY important while some come with larger sizes making paint choice only important instead of very important. How can something so simple in concept cause such headaches. Its not easy for beginners but keep at it and eventually it will be mastered. Takes some patience and practice.

Mark your right about the dust. PVC dust feel abrasive on the skin.. Also it is not a natural substance like wood, its plastic and won't breakdown or be absorbed in the body.

All materials have their pros and cons. PVC is water proof so no sealling step. But you may want to cover surface finish for a smoother surface for painting. Will depend on how far down the grit scale you want to sand the PVC. Being waterproof you can test out ballasting sooner in the build process.

Never mind I found them somehow. (by clicking on Archery Rob's profile and then his posts) and Thanks Rob for posting.

Can somebody fix the missing images, please? I can only see Ben's. And yes I am signed in. Tried to see where the links for the photos are but only see " ...broken link" Thanks

Bloxygen is argon in a can. I bought some and thought the can was empty but its not. That is some light stuff. But it works for me.

Yep - there too.

Sonny - yep as in anal retentive: Not in the way you may be thinking. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anal_retentiveness

Vic - Thanks for sharing the tip. Great idea. Yep sometimes little things can make a big difference. Since I can get anal about how things line up and symetry, this makes it easier. I'll have to find another reason for my mental state.

Azek is celluar PVC. Look for any water PROOF (not just water resistant) glues that dries clear and hard.

Gene - Thanks for posting the link to the video. Great idea. Good too to make the template thick, use a bearing router bit and showing to ease into the lexan. All good for safety.

Take a look at his last video post. It's titled how to apply epoxy. Since he is from Europe it is likely the brand he uses is not readily available in US. Do a forum search and you will find lots of suggested choices on lure coats. Many use Devcon 2 Ton expoxy. It is a slow cure 20 min or longer. There are some expoxies that dry quicker but those are not used too much. They are water resistant not water proof. Also check label as some epoxies dry/age with a yellow tint. Look for expoxy that dries clear or live with yellow tint. Devcon 2 ton dries clear. Check to make sure it says water PROOF not water resistant. I found Devcon 2 ton at Ace Hardware. Also available via internet.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/11078-making-billslips/page__hl__%2Bmaking+%2Bbills+%2Blips__fromsearch__1 Don't know if this is it or not but take a look. I found it by doing a Search on the forum.

Boy that Rayburn guy must of paid attention in geometry class. His teacher would be proud. Little did we know back in school that this math stuff would come in handy later on when building lures. I like do the dunk test to find out about how much ballast is needed. I also add the extra hardware ( hooks, clevis or what ever I might use in the build) for the dunk test. It can make a little difference especially if I'm try for neutral bouyancy. However I don't try to get exact with the weight as the water temp and line type will impact how far the lure will sink or float. Mono size/ wt is different from flurocarbon lines how deep a lure will go. Then there is body shape, bill size and angle. The factors go on and on. I get it close and go from there. Once I get the weight needed and do a followup dunk test after installing the ballast to check that the lure does what I want it too. Sometimes to get the right lure attituted (nose up, down, level) I will drill more than one hole.

If the A-rig really hauls in fish like the claims and desimates the bass population, then likely the state game and fish agencies will really fix the problem - like banning the lure or restricting the number of lures like some states already do. May be even limit the numbers that can be taken. Or how about only bass fish on Wednesdays? Then it won't matter what BASS or any tournament org decides. Don't think the bait will do that cause it will likely only work in certain situations. Has anybody tried to throw them into cover like tree tops, hydrilla/moss beds. Then to after all the banjo minnow is suppose to guarantee catches and the only lure you need. Great topic for discussion and BS if nothing else.

I made some 3" long crankbaits out of PVC brick mold I got from a contractor friend. I was easy to work with. One thing I noticed was that I needed to add more ballast than I thought I would need. Did the water bouyancy test to get neutral float I wanted. I didn't split the body. just cut a slot for thru wire construction so I had limited space to insert weights. Next time I will split the body and make space for more weight for a sinking vesion. If AZEK is more dense then it may make a difference in ballasting.

I don't tournament fish so it doen't matter to me. BASS deals with a lot of $$$$ in the Elite series. They exercised a golden rule ( He who has the gold rules). At least they discussed and got agreement with some of the anglers. So they set new rules. What ever the reason they are now the rules that all competitors know and will follow if they want the $$$. Kind of like some of the race car circuits requiring choke plates on engines to limit horsepower.

What S-W sealer are you using? They offer several types (vinyl, lacquer, propietary) so paint adhesion might be a problem if you don't lightly scuff the primer or heat set the createx paint before applying your finish. Just some thoughts.

what kind of glue? Don't think goo gone would work. You could try carefully scraping it away with a sharp utility knife. Will likely leave scratch marks but wont effect action which the fish will go for. Etexing over the lips will add weight. For next time try a woodworkig trick by dry fitting the lip into the bait, then mark or scratch the joint of the bait and bill. Remove the biill then masking tape over the bill leaving the part inserted into the bait exposed for the glue to grab. When dry just peal away the tape. I usually tape the bill to keep paint off the bill anyway so I just do the taping early. Sometimes I have to use an exacto knife to cut the glue at the joint to remove the tape if the glue gets too thick but still leaves the bill finshed clean.

@nedyarb - Are you having any problem with your finishing coats? I'm wondering if the Windex with Anti bacterial causes finishing coat problems. if not what type of finish do you use? Maybe the final clean water shoot you do removes any residual Windex from your cup. Just curious. If its working for you that's great.