EdL

Played around with the search deal. Entering just PVC in the search box will get you an error message, Enter "pvc baits" (yes include the double quotes) and I get results.

Yep - same thing happens to me. Maybe part of the version that has some users having to do 3 mouse clicks to get any reaction to go back.

Wishing everyone Peace and Prosperity (and may you get the tackle building toys you would like)

Anybody wanting to try out the reducing using Pledge with Future Shine should note that there is a version for wood floors and another for tile floors. You want the one for tile floors. Also here is a link to the ingredients: http://www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/en-us/products-by-brand/pledge/pledge-tile--vinyl-floor-finish-with-future-shine-1.aspx Bottle states that an acrylic is used for the shine protection. So clean out your airbrush as advised in other postings as soon as your done. Otherwise you will have a clear sealed coating inside your airbrush. So far I haven't had any issues with createx paints and reducer compatiblity. But I try to only mix up what I need to not have to store paints ( I got enough junk around already) and pour out the mix thru a strainer into the airbrush vessel. I got a paint strainer and cut out the filter part the size of the paint bottle cap and put the filter between the cap and bottle. I got some 2 and 4 ounce bottles with the flip up nozzles.

The world of automotive clear is another whole place. There are one part (1K) clears, two parts (clear and activator-2K) and even some 3 part (clear, activator and reducer). Check out SprayMax web site and other suppliers like PPG, Dupont, House of Kolors for more information. This stuff can get pricey and there are many different characteristics depending on the manufacturer- yes you can get a small spray can of 2 part such as Spray Max but its pot life once activated is 24 hours which means you need to have enough baits ready for clear otherwise it set up in the can. A gallon of one kind clear I checked out was over $100. Then add the activator. Some are available in quarts for $30 - $50. Also you understand that you should use good ventilation and use a hydrocarbon filter mask when spraying urethace base finishes. READ THE MSDS (material safety data sheets) for the products your using. You don't want to find out that the spraying you did without proper personel protection (and not a paper dust mask) later comes back to hurt your lungs or develope respitory issues. Use google and forums search for automotive clear coat and read all the info including technical data sheets. Some guys use it and others use different finishes like E-tex to get thinner coats. Like I said its another whole world. Suggest reading up somemore about it. Don't mean to discourage but want to point out some things to consider before jumping into real automotive clear coats.

From what you say yes you will likely have to backflush several times to get rid of all the paint. You have not said what brand or kind of paint. Acetone may not be the best reducer. Look at the Neo owner's manual or parts list. It will give recommendations. Also the parts list and exploded view will help you when you take apart the brush to really clean it out good. It is a good practice to take the brush apart fully and give it a good cleaning at the end of a painting session. Will make the next painting session go easier. There are all kinds of places for paint to remain and dry up in an airbrush. Also look on the web for airbrush cleaning tips. Also watch out for what you use for cleaning solvents. There are o-rings in that brush and the solvent will slowly attack them over time if you don't follow a good cleaning and rinsing procedure. Teflon o-rings are provided in some of the more expensive brushes which hold up better to more agressive solvents but a lot of brushes have rubber or neoprene o-rings. Try taking some of you paint and put some in a small container other than your airbrush, dump it out to leave a residual in the bottom corner. Then try different solvents or reducers to see which one works best at removing the kind of paint you are using. This can save you some time by reducing the number of rinses and backflushes to get rid of the residue color.

Depends on what kind of paint I use. Water with a little dna with water based paints. For hydrcarbon based paints I use some reducer for that paint.

Yes you need a regulator- You use it to set the air delivery pressure. Depending on what paint you use and the viscosity you will need to set the regulator to different pressures. If you use a long small diameter hose, the pressure you set at the compressor if thats where the regulator is located will not be the same at your airbrush. Also using a moisture trap is a good idea. Crankpaint gives you a way to install it. Just match up connections with fittings.

Yep - just click three times with you mouse. Click 3 times with your heels and you'll get back to Kansas. Works only when you where red shiny shoes. I can verify that it won't get you to Kansas if you wear brown Red Wing work boots. I don't have or wear red shiny shoes. ;

IE 9.0

@saltshaker or anyone else experiencing backing up issue on a thread. Just do 3 quick clicks on the back arrow. Yeah I know its a pain in the rear or more like finger. Just what I need something to speed up repetative stress symptoms.

Yep. Me too. Figured the last software update brought in a 'new' feature. Too bad it was identified to users.

Clint - it has a lot to do with bait building. You gotta make sure your engine is strong enough to pull the load (line tie connection), watch out for the curves (the shape of the bait has to be just right), not go to fast(so you don't hurt yourself when carving), and be sure the cabboose is attached so the (rear) hook don't come out.

Ben is right about get drill bit conversion charts. They are handy to have around. While looking up stuff and deciding wire diameters also check out wire stiffness and material types. You didn't say what you were doing with the wire so recommendations may or may not fit for your purposes. Doing a search on 'wire' on this forum will get you all kinds of info. There's all kinds of materials, steel, galvanized steel, various 300 series stainless, nickel all with different annellings that determine how easily it will be to bend twist or form.

Nope - google american wire gauge and you will find site with tables of wire sizes you can use for reference.

There are many guys making lures from PVC. Use search function and checkout the gallery.

Cory - take a look at topics dealing with vortex shedding and drag coefficients. These are used in flow measurment instrumentation, piping hydraulics, smoke stack design. A vortex flow meter has a bluff body across a fluid flow in a pipe that generate vortices (pressure pulses) downstream. These pulses are measured and related to flow rates. All to do with hydraulic physicss. Don't fret too much about it though because in reality manufacturers make an instrument and test it in a test flow tank to come up with performance and design calculations. What I'm suggesting is that maybe you can come up with a test tank (lake or pond or swimming pool) and test a design. Then you can relate the wake frequency(wobble) to the shape. Then take the lure to a lake and test it's fish catching. (Why not come up with a 'scientific' reason to hit the lake during class. Tell the Prof- need to collect testing data. please can I have a pass? Wish I had thought about it when I was in school. Now I have to be creative to leave the house and not do 'honey' do list item. Good luck with your project.

Cory - Good luck with your research project. I am an engineer (now retired). Now I don't have time to do what I want to do all the things I want to do. Don't know how I got things done when I worked. Go figure. I've heard this phenomenon from other retirees but didn't believe it until now. One thing I learned after working in the profession - there are engineers that really didn't engineer but managed engineering work or wen't good at it. There are people who have the apptitude and don't have engineering degrees. I really hold them in esteem. The "paper doesn't impress me". It what you can do and how you do with others. (Don't take this to say don't finish your education. That degree will open doors for you so FINISH!). Do I use my engineering knowledge to build lure? Only a little but you might be surprised in what way. It keeps me from taking extra steps in the experiment ( making) a crank bait. There are way too many factors that will impact how a crankbait works to do what it supposed to do - catch fish first and catch fisherman second. (may visa versa). Notice that in your studies that there is alway a coefficent or factor in an equation. That factor is a fudge factor to cover "that what can't be explained. So I don't spend time 'calculating' or 'designing' a crankbait. Just enjoy building them, trying out, then modify, and learn. Kind of like the Wright brothers.

Stencil Momma gets 51% voting and audience get 49%. After all: 1. Nobody should ever mess with a momma. Try messing with a momma bear or skunk and see what will happen to you, And if you are providing a prize then you ought to get most of the say. 2. The rest of the vote tally get done by audience just to balance out the results. Far as I'm concerned anybody who posts the their use of your stencils are all winners. They take the time and effort and are good people. Hats off to them. But there could be a special winner or winners should there be catagories as bassnbrad suggests.

Rookie - I agree with you about the beatup lure thing. I have noticed too that I have a couple of baits that look like hadies but they will catch fish. I have others that look lifelike and sharp but have yet catch anything. So i have decided that pretty and lifelike is mainly to catch fishermen not fish. This makes me also think it more about action and confidence. Also i am of the opinion that a builder should try new finishing techniques every now and then but stay mainly with the coating method that can be mastered. Makes lure making more enjoyable and the wife and dog are happier if you are happy with making baits you have mastered.

Density is mass per unit volume. Mass being the weight. (Not purely scientifically correct but close) So to get something to float or sink one needs to consider the surface area being displaced (volume) as well as its density. Why do steel ships float? The density of steel is approximately 7.85 gm/cm3. Water is approximately 1.0 gm/cm3. It has to do with displacement. I like the way Gentle thinks (and explains). But I really don't worry about the fine tuning too much. Water changes density with temperature and as such if you got you bait floating perfectly neutral at 68 Deg F (20 deg C) it may float or sink if the lake or pond temperature is above or below. Not to mention the drag characteristics of the bait/bill shape. Move the bait and there are more things to conside. Damn this techie stuff makes my head hurt thinking about it. Consider painting the bait them the wrong color and whether the bait floats or sinks won't matter. I will chill out now and make some baits and try to ballast them close and then enjoy the heck out of using them.

Hey Tommy - this question really belongs in the other Hardbait Discussion forum not in this How To section. Notice this is section shows how to build or do something. You might get more answers if posted in the other section. You didn't say what products you used so it will be hard for people to pass along what they learned from experience. Seems to me the epoxy putty might be interacting with the top coat and shrunk. Try letting the putty cure more e.g. give it more time to set. Try an experiment on a scrap board, drill holes, fill them with putty, and cover some with finish and some without. Put the finish on a couple at different times. You could try different finishes to see which one might react or won't react. Maybe try covering the putty with a thin layer CA glue after application but before finishing. Just a thought.

Big P and VIc - those look great!

Your right. Don't know what is happening or what it really means. But it was there when I posted about the location.. Maybe it got pulled from viewing???? I've learned recently if you really see something you want to review later try and download it or print it because it may dissappear in a few days. Basically the video showed how to take surveyors flag wires and use them to make the rig. The guy used a swagging tool and some aluminum crips from big box hardware stores to hold things together. Took a 1/4 ounce worm weight and ran one wire with a loop made at one end to form a line tie. Then the other 4 wires were crimped on at the back of the worm weight. He then put barrel swivels/snaps on the other end of the wire using smaller crimps to retain the loops for the swivels. Just one way to make a rig. Searching around the internet you can find other variations of making the rig. Also there are other production versions out there. Even seen some make your own tackle suppliers offering parts to make the rig.

Stan - way to go. Not everyone will do the right thing. When you get some of your lures finish please post some photos. Happy Thanksgiving everyone.