wnybassman

Same thing here, my tiles are smooth/glossy and about 8" x 12". I have a whole stack of them that I have scattered all over the place after I am done. I usually try to leave them overnight at a minimum but often I go a week or two before they get bagged.

Savings??

Is that with microwave heating?

I have had a website since 1996 and I am STILL fuzzy on all this stuff. lol

The bags I have bought have come from Lurecraft.com

Are you sure the nut isn't just the right size to block the neck? I worried about that when I put nuts in mine, but it ended up not being an issue.

I use LC soft formula and no matter how much worm oil I douse the baits with, in about two weeks the baits are oil free again. No salt either. I have even had oil pooling in the bottom of the bag, and two weeks later, gone. No complaints, the baits are easy to handle once it soaks in.

8,211 Ooops, another just came in. 8,212 lol

I don't pour in POP molds, but have dabbled in pouring different color tails in my silicone molds, and it definitely helps when the mold is warmed up to temperature. The second color needs to be poured as soon as you can while the first color is still liquid is just starting to solidify. A cold mold will cure that first color faster, so there is the issue. What I have been doing is pouring my one color baits first, then do the two color baits last after the mold is quite warm. If all I am going to do is the two color, I'll heat up some garbage plastic and pour 10 or 12 baits just to warm the mold some.

Probably due to temperature flucuations and damp conditions combined with the salt. Probably the same reason your car stays wet in the garage under those same conditions. I actually had beads of water forming on the surface of the baits.

I have left unsalted baits in my barn for weeks with no ill effects, but heavily salted baits started to "sweat" on me after several days.

I also shake the baits in a container with scent and oil, and there is a little pool in the bags sometimes if I go a little heavy on the oil. Two weeks later (or less) that pool is usually gone though.

I keep my gallons in my unheated barn/shop. I just put them in a place that I can see them, so it reminds me to give them a shake every once and a while. lol

The old ones were/are nice, that's why I bought 1000's of them. lol I'm glad to see they brought a very similar hook back into the line-up at a reasonable price. I was starting to entertain other options because my stash is getting low. Now if I could get Bass Pro to re-release the 3 1/2" Tender Tube in #13 melonpepper life would be good

This particular series might be new, but they offered a black pearl 570 hook in the laser sharp many years ago also. Just went out to the shop and dug out my last box, which has to be at least 10 years old and probably more. I got them at Jann's (and I think it was pre Netcraft)

About 8 to 10 years ago or so I used the Eagle Claw 570BP LS hooks. They ended up being discontinued and I bought 4,000 or so on a clearance sale. I have not seen anything since resembling these hooks from Eagle Claw and I am down to my last few hundred. How do these new hooks from Eagle Claw compare to the LS hooks?

I like the Oomoo 25 from Smooth-On http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2_1113_1136/index.html?catdepth=1

Salt does a great job making it easy to get baits into a bag, but I find it attracts/creates moisture in the bags during damp/cold weather.

Sorry, I wore that a little funny. I was just saying I use the LC soft formula for my plastic pouring. I only add the worm oil and scent to the finished baits, no raw plastic.

Yes

No matter how "soggy" I put the baits in the bags, a couple weeks later they are dry again. I usually do a combo of worm oil and scent with LC's soft plastic.

Well, they didn't fall right off. It was a custom chatterbait trailer and I was able to get 100+ casts in, and a couple fish before the tail fell off. Not too bad, I know, but looking for improvement. I made the mold out of RTV and was wondering about touching up with a torch.

Just wondering if there are any tips or tactics for helping to eliminate cold cracking when pouring two different colors in an open pour mold. I thought I did good the other day when pouring a different color "tail" on a body, but today whiile using the baits the tail eventually fell off at the "crack". I don't think I could pour the second color any faster that I did, and the colors looked to mend together pretty well at the times of pouring.

LOL Reminds me of a couple weeks ago when I was packaging some baits. I use a plastic container and do a shake-n-bake approach to this. Well, I grabbed my beer and poured it into the container of baits instead of the oil/scent that was sitting right next to it. It didn't help that I was on the phone at the time, also. This is precisely the reason I don't drink while actually pouring plastics, just packaging

I ordered a 7 cavity 3" slim Senko mold from them a couple months ago and within the week I received a 10 cavity mold for that bait. I didn't ask any questions lol