j27

This works great for me. Just put a nice long handle on your jig, go slow and watch for kick-out. I wouldn't want to try to do more than one though. Only takes about 2 minutes to rough cut and route. John

X2

Had the same problem when I tried using propionate to seal my baits. Would crack down the sides starting where the lip slot is. Stopped using propionate and never seen those kind cracks again. Ive stayed with the slow epoxies like etex and d2t for balsa.

X2!!!

# 3 split shot = 3.9-4.0 grams # 4 split shot = 3.2- 3.4 grams # 5 =2.5. Grams If you happen to buy in 1/8 oz it's 3.5 grams Hope this helps!

If your using those balsa baits that are about 2 1/2 inches or so , i like to use 1/8 oz split shots or egg sinkers. I don't use the manufactured baits but a carve mine similar to those and the work good for me. Putting them in the lowest center of gravity seems to be the best placement. Good luck!!!! John

Hang in there. One thing that helped me is get a piece of illustrating board or foam board or something of that nature. Cut a stencil in the shape of a bait and practice your patterns. Good thing about doing this beside the practice is you can make notes beside them on your color recipes. Good luck!!!!! John

I thought it might be Dick Night. But it looked like he was dipping to seal it before painting. I didn't know you could use it for sealing too, if that is what it is. I have a can but was too chicken to open it, so I just tapped the can and brush it on. But would love to dip.

Great video on YouTube , go to Tim Earick crankbaits. Would love to know what he has in that jar!!!!

Just an idea for ya, I like to use the flat side of a clear milk jug. See through and fairly easy to cut with an exacto knife. John

I've tried the water based stuff before and I didn't work too well. At first it looked great but after a few cast into the water it started to soften up. Soft enough for the hooks to stick to it. If you wood like to try it I would suggest do a sample first before you apply it to a bait. I've tried two different brands of water base with same results. Good luck!!

I like to mix my etex in the bottom of a beer can ( or your beverage of choice )turned upside down. I clean it with denatured alcohol before mixing. Let it sit for about a minute to let the larger bubbles rise to the surface. Then give it a couple of good breaths to pop them and start brushing. I use the cheap disposable brushes from Walmart . Also, I like to be close to a window so while I'm brushing I can rotate the bait using the glare from the window to see that I'm getting even coverage. Immediately give it several breaths all around to breakup the smaller bubbles created from brushing and put it on the turning wheel. I do batches of baits of about 10 baits. I can do about 6 baits before it starts to thicken up. I stop at this point and mix another batch in a different can bottom. This method helps me get thin even coats, multiple baits, and the thinner the epoxy the easier it is to get the bubbles to pop when blowing on them. Let them turn overnight or 10 to 12 hours depending on the temp , then do a second coat. I build flat sided baits about 2 1/2 to 3 inches long. I know this goes against the grain with what others are doing but this is what works for me. John

I have no problem sanding the textured side of the pvc trim board i get from Lowes. I use a belt sander. John

Ha ha, I understand. Yea, this process works best with balsa. Sorry I can't be more help to ya.

I use a belt sander for this step. Decide the thickness you want the head and tail and use a compass to mark both sides at the very ends of each side. This will give you a stopping point. Also mark perpendicular to the center line where the belly ( thickest section ) will be. Do this on both sides so when flipping the bait while sanding you can stay true on both sides and ends. Good luck, John

I've used wood filler. For me, it's a little easer to sand down than epoxy.

Here are the pictures. Hope this will help if you have the ability to make something like this. I think the tolerance between the punch and hole are crucial for a cleaner cut. This one definitely needs some work. John

I have a homemade punch I just got from from my wife's uncle. He doent make lures anymore and gave it to me. I thought I was home free , with making lips anyway. It's from the 80s I believe. Well, after cleaning the rust off of it I couldn't wait to try it. What a disappointment. He stated it worked great when he stopped using it but I think the tolerance between the punch and the plate with the hole is too great. It also has a small burr in a spot and it leaves a rough edge. It does work but there is a lot of work left cleaning up the edges. I'm looking into getting another steel plate and cutting a new hole but I have no experience in this. I will try and get a picture of it and maybe it will give some of you some ideas. Good luck, John

How about a tarp? Just build it up around the edges and fill it up with water. You only need a few inches for top water lures.

I do this as well, what do you use to attach the lexan to the template? I'm currently using double sided scotch tape. Was wondering there could be something better. Thanks , John

Merry Christmas from Hartwell Lake in South Carolina.