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j27

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Everything posted by j27

  1. Was wondering how this .041 wire size is compared to 19 gauge. I currently use this 19 gauge I get at Ace Hardware but would like to get something just a shade smaller. I have a Harbor Freight in the next town over from me and was thinking of driving there. John
  2. Thanks Nathan, now I got to make a trip to wal-mart. Lol !
  3. From my understanding, once the lid is opened and baits are dipped it's exposed to moister/air and starts to cure no mater what you do after that to keep air from it, it will still slowly cure. Tapping the can minimizes moister from getting in. I've also put bloxygen inside the can to separate air that gets in. I've learned this from reading on TU. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong for I'm not very experienced with this stuff.
  4. From my understanding, once the lid is opened and baits are dipped it's exposed to moister/air and starts to cure no mater what you do after that to keep air from it, it will still slowly cure. Tapping the can minimizes moister from getting in. I've also put bloxygen inside the can to separate air that gets in. I've learned this from reading on TU. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong for I'm not very experienced with this stuff.
  5. Ok, lol, I'm good. It finally stopped.
  6. Thanks J, how long is too long for it to drip? Just got back in the shop, it's been an hour and still dripping about every 3 minutes. Thinking I may need to change the screw or something. John
  7. I've had this can for short time and use a sheet metal screw with some kind of a black soft washer to seal off where it comes out. The DN must be dissolving it, little black particles are in it when I get some out. So, I took the screw out and cut the black washer off and replaced it with just a plain metal washer. Now I have a slow drip because this does not seal it off as well, but it did stop dripping after a couple of minutes. Question is to those of you that use this method, is this the normal? I'm sure the DN will cure around the scew and seal off the can. Also a warning to those who are thinking of trying this method, I wouldn't use the soft washers. Also noticed some runs on one side of my bait after brushing it on. I didn't think I put it on to thick but assuming that's the cause. Next time I will go a lot thinner. Any input on this method of tapping the can and brushing this stuff would be much appreciated. I'm use to e-tex and I'm getting a little frustrated with this stuff. John
  8. I like a little smoother surface to paint on so I use e-tex.
  9. Hey tallbald, your question on the gesso. I don't think it would be good as a sealer. I'm an artist and us gesso sometimes for covering canvases. I believe that it's just a thinned acrylic paint with none of the sealing properties as epoxy or super glues you need for lures. I personally use envirotex- lite to seal the wood but there are several epoxies that work as well as super glue. Good luck ! John
  10. just something I like to do sometimes just to add a small amount of red without it being over powering. Use the gold and black just like you have it but paint/dot the red just slightly larger than the black puple. You'll have three layers with just a hint of red around the black.
  11. That color of the GULP on the bottom right is called dollar bill. Made by Jim Harter here in S.C..
  12. Crankie, I really like your design. It is a sure fire way to secure the lip. My method is a two piece construction and I'm not sure how I could put it together. So far, knock on wood, I havn't had any more problems sense I started making the slot a little loser. I also cut slots toward the back of the lip as Ben stated. And for an added measure I cut out a little a material inside the lip slot with the smallest bit I have for my dremal tool to maximize glue film. Ben- My method is the same as yours on the lip slot, I think you are the one I got from. thanks
  13. Just wanted to throw this out there. A few months ago i had a couple of baits from some friends come back to me. The lips had came out of them. I posted the problem here on TU. One of the solutions was to not cut the lip slot too tight so that your glue film be to little. Just be carefull not to go too tight and have the same issue I had. John
  14. A minnow net works well too.
  15. E-tex for wood. Don't do plastics but if I did, DN.
  16. Glad you asked this A-Mac . I use the 19 gauge as well but would like just a shade smaller.
  17. j27

    Clemson Crank

    Thought this would get a response. Love it, keep it going. I'd rather paint it a color that would actually catch fish. This was painted for a gift to my brother in law. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't use the handmade, I'd just paint a KO. To much effort goes into making it run and will probably never get wet. ---bluetickhound, like Howard said" everybody wants a piece of the rock". Tight lines!!!!!!
  18. j27

    Clemson Crank

    Just showing a little team spirit. Made from balsa, createx paint, lexan lip and e-tex top coat.
  19. j27

    Newest batch

    Thank you !
  20. j27

    Silent 1.5

    Rattle Snake Perch!
  21. j27

    Newest batch

    Carolina flat sides, balsa with lexan lips. E- tex top coat, createx paint.
  22. Does anyone have a recipe with createx paints for the original GULP Dollar Bill ?
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