MuskyHunter

Yes. Frank is right. I plan to get the 7" version for the pike an Muskie.

Thanks. I have some holographic film that I plan to try using on the inside. I have not tried it yet. I will make sure the bait is transparent when I do this.

Just wanted to show that you can do two colors without a two color injector. Simply inject one color, let the bait cool, and slice the bait where you want that color. Place the sliced up bait back into the mold and pour or inject the second color. Attached are the pictures from my first attempt.Now all I need to do is figure out how to rig it.

Does anyone use the Gulp juice to soak their baits in? What is in the stuff? I know it works well.

So, what I think I heard was that venting is more important than the direction of injection.

I pour these small reapers (2.75") in two color and it is very teadious. If you mess up, just pull the mistake out quickly. I pour and repour until they look good to me. I always try to get the mold work level as close as I can to a comfortable eye level.

Very nice. this is what I was trying to figure out. I will post mine when I get my molds and try it out. Thanks MuskyHunter

This might explain some of my troubles.

Ok. Thanks. This is contrary to some of the videos I have seen and color recipes.

Several questions on this. 1. Do you add the scent before or after heating? I have seen mixed messages on this. 2. Salt, I have seen people add this after heating. when is the best time to add salt? 3. what are all of the things that should be added after heating? Thanks

Dave, Molds The choice of a tool steel would be an H13 or similar hot working material if you plan to go that route. I think the concensus from above and my opinion is to go with Aluminum for a mold. As Del stated above, thermal conductivity for aluminum cooling off is a good thing. The plastic can come out quicker because the Aluminum gets rid of the heat well. Injector The injector will loose heat quickly because it is made from Aluminum. This is what will cause some problems with injecting if it is not done quickly. We just need a small coil to keep the injectors warm...an elctric blanket of sorts. All just my opinion..

Thanks. There is a big variety of colors in this paint out there. I think I am going to try it. here is the link to the paint I was talking about. I don't think I want to spend alot on the LC paints. I hear they work well though. http://www.createxcolors.com/product/airbrushcolors/main.html

Wow. I didn't mean to offend anyone with my comments. Sorry if I did. The injector was the only thing I thought would benefit from being made of steel. An Aluminum injector will loose its heat much faster than a Aluminum one of the same design. The molds do make sense to make them out of Aluminum and as you say, "the baits will come out of the mold faster."

A couple of comments on this topic: 1. I am not sure why the injectors are made from Aluminum. I would not chose this material to retain heat. Aluminum is used to remove heat in several different industries. (I.E. heat sinks on computers and such.) I would think that the injector would be made from a cold rolled steel. This can be purchased in tube form for this application. Steel would definately retain the heat much better instead of dissipating heat like Aluminum would. 2. The thing I would worry about most with Aluminum molds being heated and reheated would be distortion. The splitline would get warped very easily. (This would depend on the type of Aluminum used.) Yes, there will be an effect on surface finish over time of heating and reheating above the 250-300 deg range. In Aerospace, 300 deg is the range for a stress relief operation. My experience comes from over 20 years of Manufacturing Engineering knowledge in the Aerosapce industry for those that don't know me.

Does anyone have experience using CREATEX paint on Soft Plastic? My brother has an airbrush and paint I can use. Thanks