oldtoolsniper

You can use the same system to add marabou or other types of feathers to a rubber bait. Cut the tail off a twister tail grub bait and thread feathers into the butt with a loop and an upholstery needle. Remove the stem of the feather of course.

I have a few like that. Just make a threader and your in business. Just go to Google and look up threader in pictures and you will see one. Threads needles and floss through braces. You don't want the pipe one. I just fold a piece of line in half, pinch the folded end to make it pointed and then thread my line with it. Here is a link to one that has instructions, you get the idea from it how to do it. http://www.jjneedles.com/products/Sewing-Machine-Needle-Threader-%252d-Single.html#

Moose, Thanks for the Ideas.

I got this idea from RayburnGuy if I recall correctly. After you put down your base color and set it, apply the mesh. Then apply another coat of the base color over the net and set it to prevent the scale color from running under the netting. This handy tip really made my scales crisp!

Why do I want steak now?

Mark... Contrast.. I did not think along those lines. That is interesting and perhaps explains the bizarre colors that were used years ago on old wood baits. They look like nothing in nature yet were effective fish catchers. Black and white as well as red and white daredevils come to mind. Color blind people interpret black and white drone photos because they see the contrast not the color and even a camouflaged gun emplacement stands out in stark contrast to them. Glad to see folks understood this was not about pills and the decision to use a rare side effect as a perceived benefit to market a product. That reference was an analogy with literary license and was in no way meant provoke a discussion on medical issues. It was used to demonstrate contemporary marketing and beneficial suggestions. In contemporary marketing beneficial suggestions and perceived benefits are not facts they are meant to imply that these things are possible if you wear, eat, drive, ride, buy, or fish with that particular marketed item. A polished, modern politically correct version of the "Snake Oil" salesman.

I have caught a few fish in my years on this planet and that is where this question comes from. When a fish is bleeding in the water how does the blood somehow stay on the side of the fish as depicted on some lures? I have shot fish with spear guns in the ocean while diving and the blood does not stay on the side of the fish, it dissipates into the water. There is way more blood than any normal survivable injury a fish could swim around with and yet it does not stick nor is it visible on the side of the fish. For that matter when I cut my finger that blood will dissipate into the water when I clean the wound as well. I'm thinking this is like the ad for the blue pills that tell you to report to your doctor after fours hours if it's not gone away. This was nothing more than advertising in a slight of hand way that implies no claims but leads you to assume it is a fact when it is not. Red is one of the first colors to turn to brown or black underwater. If I recall correctly from under water photography it turns sometimes in less than 10 feet of water. Is this the blue pill of the fishing lure world? Wounded things bleed so it makes sense a predator would key in on that, in our minds that means blood. That blood would trigger a strike and a strike is what we are after. Lure makers want in our wallets so if they imply that possibly blood painted on the side triggers strikes then perhaps more people will buy them. Back a few years ago lures were made to act like a wounded fish, they were not painted to look like one. In fact most wounded fish I have seen have nasty growths on them that have no resemblance of blood. How does the blood stay on the side of these fish? Is this the mythical four hours of the fishing world? Do bait-fish have some characteristic that allows blood in the water to stick to their sides? Am I missing something?

Look at this site for more information. You are looking for the "Chemical Resistance" chart. They tested these pellets against a lot of strange things not likely found in a tackle box. This information should help identify or at least narrow down what reacts with this type of product. It looks like plastisol (rubber worms I think) dissolves it. Interesting reading.

I have not tried this with small diameter wire but have read about others using stainless wire feed welding wire. I am still using up the Janns netcraft wire I got at an estate auction with my lure maker. I have used real heavy stainless .051 welding wire for some large baits. Pretty sure I could pull a small truck with it.

I watched it happen later on during the project building phase. The machinists taking the class would make drawers fit so well when you pushed on in another was forced out by the air pressure. We were 20 miles inland and it was about 10% humidity. The projects were completely finished and shown at the Del Mar fair on the coast. Humidity at the coast is around 50% and every drawer fitted like that would not budge. Some of those guys tore handles off trying to open the drawers. If they fit the raised panel in a door like that the rails or the stiles would crack at the joints, not the glued area because the glue is stronger than the wood. Wooden lures of the vintage type have none of these modern topcoats or sealants applied to them. They used lead based paint and depending on how they were stored they either survived or did not. this applies to the finish on old furniture as well. Shellac survives the best because it's flexible. Your pills and a lot of candy are coated with it and it is actually some kind of Thailand bug secretions. (Bug poo) There was no water based paint and the only thing "Green" about a finish was the color. I have stripped lots of them with just lacquer thinner to remove the remaining damaged finish. Even polyurethane will not strip with just lacquer thinner and epoxy will not either, some of the other stuff discussed on here would require sand blasting to remove. Rubber baits and poor storage is what destroys the finish on most old lures. Valuable wooden lure collections are kept in climate controlled rooms for that reason. Lead paint is flexible to a degree. The wooden lure expands and cracks the finish if it is not flexible. Summer time expansion, winter time contraction + a rock hard finish = cracks in the finish. Bottom line is this: Wood Moves and nothing will prevent it. Slow it down yes, stop it, No.

First three months of the Cabinet and Furniture technology course at Palomar college was on wood movement. There is no finish that will keep it from expanding and contracting. Wood moves with the humidity alone. Here in Iowa drawers stick in the summer and slide out like a greased pig in the winter. This is all finished wood furniture and indoors. Get a moisture meter for wood and you will see it displayed on the screen. Each species of wood expands and contracts a at a different rate. A quote from the link at the bottom of this post. It explains it pretty well. "Even fully dried wood will grow and shrink in size a little with seasonal changes in relative humidity of the air. Changes in ambient humidity are all it takes, the wood doesn't actually need to get wet. A layer of varnish can slow down how fast humidity gets in and out of the wood, but all varnishes, even oil based ones, allow moisture to migrate in and out slowly. Even plastics are slightly moisture permeable. That's why potato chip bags are always shiny on the inside - they have a thin coating of aluminium to lock out moisture." http://woodgears.ca/wood_grain/shrinkage.html

I use a dehydrator from the thrift store to dry all my lures after priming and painting since we average 80% humidity here in the summer. It's one of the round ones with about ten racks. If your in Arizona you can most likely skip that part of my process. I dry my wood blanks in it as well.

I paint a lot of spoons, Daredevil and such. I found that when using Createx as a base the paint peeled of in sheets when a pike cut through the finish. I used Epoxy, Lacquer, Polyurethane, and acrylic floor polish for the top coat. The teeth cut through all of them. The finish was adhered well to the above listed top-coats. It was not bonded to the spoon or the base. What I found to work better is white primer of any brand, I scuff sand the spoons, prime them, put them in a dehydrator overnight and paint them using Createx. The teeth sill cut through the finish and battle scar my spoons but the finish no longer peels off in large chunks. For me it was a bonding to the base (the spoon) not a bonding to the finish issue. I have not tried the zinsser cover stain, it is a Shellac based product and shellac turns white in water. Think of the rings you get on vintage furniture when you set a drink on it. Alcohol is it's solvent and it remelts into itself even years after its applied. Your favorite hard liquor will strip shellac covered furniture.

I figured as much, I turn pens and cast my own blanks from polyester casting resin. they are cut up on a band-saw and then turned on my lathe. They look like doggie do do before you buff them out. One of the things I use on the resin pens is Novus plastic polish. There are three types of it. Here is a link to there site. I use it to repair lightly scratched safety glasses as well. http://www.novuspolish.com/video.html

I just placed my order. A couple of questions... #1 Anyone tried stripping it off a lure yet? Paint stripper or any other chemical method? #2 Anyone tried buffing the finish out on a three wheel polishing system like pen turners use? http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=25426 "Acrylic Pen Buffing System" #3 Anyone tried it out on re-finished spoons? Daredevil etc... Thanks Roy

I put one behind my buffing wheel and it is amazing the crap it sucks up from that. I repaint a lot of old spoons and I polish the backs before I repaint them. If I grind rusty metal I use it too.

The other nice thing is I can move this system around to where I need it as well!

I use the filters for a furnace that you buy at the hardware store. 20x20 fits a standard window type box fan. I get the mid range filters that cost $4 or $5 and they work great. Paint plugs them permanently after many hours of painting and sawdust can be blown out with a air hose for multiple uses. I use water-based paints, so I am not concerned with the motor not being sealed. If you are using solvent based paint I would not do this, the open winding's on a cheap box fan would work just like a spark igniter for your gas grill!

hot head foam twist ties http://www.sears.com/hot-headz-blue-foam-twist-ties/p-00914936000P

I use the box fan/filter method for my lathe especially when sanding. Fine Woodworking did an article a few years ago and that method tested as well as the $400 machines providing you keep the filters in working order. i use water based paints so I use it for over-spray collection as well.

I can say from personal experience this collector for a shop vac is incredible. It is called the Oneida dust deputy. I have three of them and you do not lose suction even when you suck up drywall dust. It has been two years since I have had to clean the filter on my shop vac attached to my table saw. They are top heavy so I just put it the waste bucket inside another bucket with lead in the bottom to keep them from tipping. Building a down draft table is as simple as pegboard used for a box lid with a vacuum port attached to the box. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2021015/26326/ONEIDA-DIY-Molded-Dust-Deputy-Cyclone.aspx http://www.billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/Downdraft.cfm http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/04/10-downdraft-table-plans-and-build-notes-for-wood-shops

Now I want one! I have a hard time posting pictures, I can't imagine the nightmare that would cause!

Just find an old food dehydrator at a garage sale. I use one that cost me 5 bucks and has fifteen round racks to boot. used one are dirt cheap and designed for drying!

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I repaint old steel and brass Daredevle spoons all the time using createx paints. The top coat is what protects the paint. In the end after a few Pike they begin to get scratched up by the teeth. The point is to create a lure pattern that works and the way I see it if you don't have teeth marks you ain't catching fish! [/img]