oldtoolsniper

What brand and model number is the Airbrush being sold and used for applying powder coating?

That's the kind of information I am looking for! Do you find Captain hooks to be the best place for these hooks or should I look some place else?

I ordered both snootie jig molds and I would like to know what types of hooks work in these molds besides the factory recommended choices. The second thing I would like to know about that hook is why you choose it or what the application is intended for. (ie. it's a light wire hook that bends out easy on a snag)

Thanks for the answers! I mix all my paints for crank-baits so of course I want to carry that over to this style of painting. I will give it a shot.

Can powder paint be mixed to change the color? For example can I add black to white to achieve a grey color?

Based on cadmans recommendation they just got $150.00 out of me too. I placed the order online and when I got the confirmation email I realized my state was listed as IN instead of IA. They had the order for no more then 10 minutes when I called them to correct the order. He was putting the last item in the box when I called. The order was placed and shipped 4/25 and will be here 4/27.... Low prices, fast and reasonable shipping as well as top notch customer service.... Not sure what else you could ask for..

I went on Ebay and found some books on airbrushing. You can get some really cheap and they will help you immensely with your search. I was surprised by the stuff you can shoot through an airbrush provided you thin it properly. All of the styles have different purposes and one does not really cover everything. It depends on how much switching around you want to do. I just got done repainting two old wood lures and it took 8 different colors to complete the body, I still have the eyes to go. Some of those colors only required 8 drops of paint in the bowl but they all require the same level of cleaning and switching around. I am using a gravity feed brush for this because it works well for small amounts of paint. I am only starting down the path and I can tell you that three things have helped me (besides this site). The books (any of them), taking notes and recording the color recipes as well as painting a sample spot in my book of each color beside the recipe and last but not least a color wheel so I can at least figure out where I need to go to get the color I think I want.

RayburnGuy, Thanks for that link, that's a lot cheaper than Hobby Lobby!

Just a heads up for you all reading this. I bought the testors custom decal system for $10.00 at Hobbly Lobby it comes with a small can of decal bonder and one sheet each of opaque and clear stencil material (half size of a normal sheet of paper). The box states there is a CD that dives you a stencil making program and it does. the program has about 25 stencils you can use and you can print most types of text with it, you cannot import anything to the program without buying a $9.95 upgrade plus $5.95 for shipping. The box is misleading to say the least. The stencil paper is curled around that little can so don't expect to feed it to your printer until you get it back to flat. In my case it will do the lettering I want provided I can get the paper flat. Gunner, a Marine? My brown lab is named Paco! How would you discover you can push air through a tampon?

Sanding sealer is a very thinned down version of a top coat type of finish.below is a link to a book written by Bob Flexner that breaks down most wood finishes to potato head. Wood expands and contracts and there is nothing you can do to stop that. Each piece of wood is going to be different as far as density and a multitude of other things that cannot be controlled. Most lures are plastic because that can be controlled. My father told me with wooden plugs he would buy two dozen of the same lure and the ones he caught fish with went in his tackle box and he sold the others to other fisherman who saw his catches. He was convinced more wooden lures would not catch fish than would. He thought one in twelve would work and then you were lucky to find it. He was born in 1919 and I don't remember him ever letting a fish go and I don't recall ever seeing a plastic lure in his box. Something else to consider is those lures you see being sold on E-bay from 60-70 years ago were painted. They did not have all of these super hard non-reversible finishes we have today. The closest thing to water based paint back then was milk paint, everything was lead based oil paint. I would venture to say that plastic or rubber worms have destroyed more of those old lures than any fish has. Those things eat the finish on everything. I remember my dad teaching me how to cut gasket cork to put in my tackle box to protect the paint on my lures from the metal the boxes were made of. Now they are plastic too! http://www.amazon.co...R/dp/B000H6EJ4U

Another option would be the Do-it lure body mold. that will give you 5 different weights and you can pour them with or without the hole through them. Here is a link. http://do-itmolds.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=1_9_55

You can get lead wire at some fishing tackle stores, it is called pencil lead wire. Here is a link to it in the "1/4 size. http://www.fleetfarm.com/catalog/product_detail/fishing/terminal-tackle-weights/sinkers-weights/water-gremlin-pencil-lead-wire-1-4-in

Hillbilly, Kris, and Gunnr, Thanks so much for the info. I have seen that decal stuff at hobby lobby but I just figured it would be to simple and therefore it was not going to work. I see from the picture that it will work so my next question is how do I reduce my signature or the graphic I want to use to the correct size. I am the type of guy who has a hard time drawing a stick figure! Gunnr, that looks like my labratard!

Anyone got a clue as to where I can get one made or how to make one? I am looking for something like the Heddon lures have on them.

It may help if you purchase a color wheel, I spent $4.00 on one and it really helps me get to the color I am looking for a lot faster. I also write down how many drops of each color I add until I get what I think is right and then I put a section of clear packing tape in the notebook beside the recipe and paint a spot on that so I can see the color I achieved.

Just a thing I do here in humid Iowa. I use a food dehydrator to dry my lures. I use it for drying my wooden pen blanks as well. Just find a cheap round one on Ebay with the removable racks and you are good to go!

Good Morning, I must first saythanks to all of you for the great information this site has provided me! I do a lot of wood working and one of the things I consideris what the surface I am finishing is going to be exposed to, a table top willget hot stuff set on it and spilled on it and a cabinet door is impossible toset stuff on unless you remove it and set it on the table. I use the finishthat is the most appropriate for the job. Reversibility is a consideration onsolid wood construction because in twenty years the next guy can strip it andre-finish it. Plywood and particle board is disposable so the finish does notmatter. I have stripped old lures with just lacquer thinner, repaintedthem and put them back in service. I know that in the last 20 or so years allof these super indestructible finishes have come out. I have read on here wherefolks have casted their lures onto gravel driveways and retrieved them to seeit the finish would hold up. Every finish fails after time no matter what thecan says nature and time will win in the end. How do you get those finishes off when youwant to refinish the lure? It seems to me that the process of removing the remainingfinish almost guarantees the destruction of the lure. I know firsthand it worksthat way on furniture, some of these urethanes and pre-catalyzed lacquers can onlybe removed when you chop the furniture up and burn it in the fireplace. Am I missing something?

Gorilla glue dries to a brownish color. I do a lot of woodworking and have tried most every glue out there. It foams as it expands to fill a gap. It is a polyurethane glue that moisture cures on your project and in the bottle (short shelf life). It's really a tough glue in the right place if you can clean up the foam. I would stick to epoxy as my first choice, I don't care much for super glue because it tends to un-super glue itself after a period of time. I used to glue the tubes into my pen blanks with it and after about a year they would come loose. I haven't had an epoxy glued blank come apart yet. I am gluing brass to plastic or wood for this application. PVA (Poly Vinyl Acetate) glues (Titebond, Elmers, yellow or white) are designed for a porous surface which you do not have in a weed guard or a jig head.

Critical thinking is gone in this country. Laws are thought up based on knee jerk panic emotional responses to a situation with no thought to the real effects of the law. Lets step away from fishing for a minute. Own an old house? Is there a cast iron pipe anywhere in that house? You have lead in your waste pipes all of the joints are packed with it. Your waste pipes may very well be lead and either way you get to pay to have it removed and replaced. That lead is going into the water. Lead removal requires a haz-mat team for extraction and disposal so you can add $ to that cost. Here in Iowa the law was changed on septic tanks on rural properties and now you have to put in a new septic system in order to sell your property. It’s for the environment so you can add $10,000 to that acreage if you’re buying it and if you are selling it I hope you have the $10,000 lying around to spend before you sell it. I’ll bet there is lead in those waste pipes so we can add even more to the selling cost of that acreage. If the yard is not big enough to support a new septic system you can’t sell it so you now own a parking lot in the country. Taxes…. Look around your town, aren’t those old building neat? I bet we get to pay for all of that lead removal too! Oregon taxpayers pay through the nose to burn the dirt from the shoulders of roads because it is considered haz-mat. When a road has construction work done the dirt from the shoulders is all shoveled up and bagged for transport as haz-mat to be cleaned. A vehicle may have leaked oil on the shoulder and it could run off into the local stream so it is haz-mat. Next time you see all those white sandbags at a road construction project put your hand on your wallet. I know it sounds silly but Oregonians pay to have clean dirty dirt! Most of the “Tree Huggers” who voted for clean water in Oregon were holding fishing rods when they voted. I'll bet they did not work for FOSS environmental. Throw a rock in the pond and the waves spread and have to go somewhere. Critical thinking. Who is making the money on this or any other legislation?

Nice looking bait! I believe that lead is called "pencil lead" I used it in Oregon with surgical tubing for drift fishing. It comes in many different diameters.

Look up safety wire pliers they will do the long twist after you make the two coils. The jaws clamp and the handle has a drill type mechanism that spins the pliers when you pull it out.