Selling 3 different taxidermy-grade fish moldings: one small trout, one small perch, and one large trout. Each has a ruler in inches along-side to gauge length. Also included with each fish is a hard plastic tail to match and the copyright transfer. These can be turned into many different types of baits including glide baits, swimbaits, solid baits, heads for umbrella rigs, etc. The dorsal, anal, and caudal fins are extra thick to withstand lure use. I personally caught each of these fish and used 3 molds to achieve a clean fish with thick fins. The materials and labor that went into these makes this price a bargain. Each fish comes with the mold and one casting that is completely raw (sprue mark, flash, air bubbles, and all) so you can see what they look like right out of the mold. Let me know if you have any questions.
Not a whole lot that's exciting except for the airbrush and epoxy. the back and belly need airbrushed because they are super bright. In the sunlight, if you use this transfer technique, your baits will be extremely flashy.
Here is a cool technique I developed for photofinishing baits. I like this method because an image can be transferred directly to foil resulting in rich colors and bright silvers. It can take a bit of experimenting to get the transfers to work without any defects so be patient. Good luck!
Yes I would agree. Anyone who sprays auto clears should have a positive pressure respirator in my opinion. No matter how well I fit my organic vapor half mask I can still smell the solvents from auto clears which makes my suspicious that some isocyanates are getting past as well.
Came across while researching how to minimize exposure risk to isocyanates, methyl amines, wood dust, paint pigments, and microballoons. Its called hobbyair and is a well priced supplied air respirator. Organic respirators and dust masks never seal perfectly but with a supplied air respirator you don't need to worry as much because the air flows away from your mask (positive pressure).
Check it out. Expensive but well worth it my opinion. We use very dangerous stuff. I just ordered a half mask set up with a tyvek hood for spraying clear.
Does anyone have input regarding the outsourcing of hard bait body production? I have seen quite a few polyurethane casting companies but most seem to be for proof-of-concept/rapid prototyping. I would be much happier to have someone produce my bodies and let me spend my time painting. Has anyone here worked with a supplier in this capacity and wish to share their experience with TU?
For larger lures I prefer either yellow poplar or aspen. Aspen is one of the harder softwoods and yellow poplar is a softer hardwood. They both have a similar density and can be found at most hardware stores (nice feature for me).
CPES soaks deep in the hollow veins of the wood. Some types of wood actually require more than one application. It then creates a 1/8" to 1/4" thick solid barrier within the wood itself. Teeth marks and dings don't affect it because of how far it soaks in.
You can get thick plastic pond liners for relatively cheap. I built a 3' x 12' x 1' test tank for a grand total of $50 in my garage. Mostly it stays thawed but we had a week of sub zero temperatures and it developed 3" of ice.
In my opinion, the unquestionably best wood sealer is clear penetrating epoxy sealer. This is also a toxic product which probably scares people away. It is often used for sealing wood hulls for ocean-going boats. Someone did an experiment with striper plugs and tested all kinds of wood sealers and the winner by a long shot was CPES. I have used it on enormous wood swimbaits and it soaks up like crazy. When cured the bait is rock hard and no water will penetrate for 10 years.
One method is to cover the bait in foil, mark all of the necessary identification lines (gill plates, eyes, fins, etc.) with a sharpie, remove the foil, and then scan the foil. You can then use your software to know exactly where to place the features.
Watch out for the two different scales of Shore hardness. There is Shore A and Shore D. I made that mistake once, ordered a 90A polyurethane thinking it would be hard.
I have a good fish head for a 9" bait and I have a really good casting of a 7" bait but the head is messed up. I am trying to figure out a way to shrink the 9" bait head down a bit so I can use it on the 7" bait. Has anyone ever done this type of thing? I believe Larry Dahlberg did something similar once but was expanding instead.
I am thinking of trying alginate. I have noticed it seems to shrink over time as the water leeches out.
Not all brands of tape are the same thickness. I can't remember the brand, but at Home Depot I found a tape that is much thinner than the rest. It is thin enough to smash out most wrinkles. The thicker tapes will not allow you to smash out all of the wrinkles. I prefer the adhesive backed tapes because the adhesive does not dry out over the amount of time I need to foil a bait.
There are many options, the best indicator of a fin material's hardness is the Shore A/D hardness. I would imagine you are looking for something less than 80A on the hardness scale. The less hard the plastic the more flexible it is in general.