sallystrothers
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Everything posted by sallystrothers
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I like your blood technique. I have gone through several variations of spattering blood and like yours! -
There are several alternatives, including some of which that have been used for centuries. The risk you run with too low center of gravity relative to center of buoyancy is the tendency to not track in a vertical plane.
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I tried it and abandoned the idea. The problem I was experiencing was the extreme compression of the microspheres resulting in too high density and "short shots" after the resin compressed within the funnel. I think you would be better off designing your molds to pour the weak sections first with a stronger resin mixture and then pour the remainder of the bait.
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I would follow the MSDS, most of which are available online. Two part urethane is an isocyanate (tan color) and a diol (clear color). The diol is relatively non-toxic but the isocyanate can be bad especially in vapor form.
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Bandsaw is also much better for cutting thermoplastics. The scroll saw sucks hardcore and only serves to melt the plastic and then re-bond. You can make a cut all the way through and find the cut path stronger than the rest.
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You could also use powder based colorants. They tend to be fairly inert and do not impact reactions.
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Probably is also sped up by the ultraviolet. UV catalyzes most epoxy reactions by creating free radicals.
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Having difficulty in locating pre-made connector hardware for double pin joints. Does anyone have a good source? I have made some but they are extremely cumbersome the way I have been doing it. I have also ordered some figure 8's off netcraft but they are too short and also have an open end on one side. Thanks.
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Sounds like a fun event. Only concern I would have pertains to the protection of each individual's concept. Even with NDA structures in place it would be easy to 'work around' them and a patent only needs to be changed by 10% and what the 10% means is usually determined by the highest paid lawyer.
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I love this message board. Some message boards are full of people waiting to ambush anyone who's work resembles anything that looks low on the food chain and accuse them of copying.
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I have one of these baits, they look really good especially for the price. Have not swam it yet being winter. -
I will have to try that. The grain in the wood also throws me off by making it look asymmetrical.
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Working on a 6" rainbow and carving the head is a very tedious process. Especially because the body is not perfectly symmetric which requires the placement of features to move a bit to make it look correct. I'm making a master to mold from so I only have to do it once in a while. I don't know how you folks who carve every bait can do it!
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Not so much the mud but temperature.
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I did quite a bit of theoretical modeling and monte carlo simulations in R for vortex shedding. Somewhere around I have the results that show the vortex force as a function of effective cross section, lure speed, kinematic viscosity, etc. One the interesting things I found was the kinematic viscosity makes a huge influence. All that aside, a lure swimming through the water is impossible to accurately model due to the extreme multivariate nature. I have been repeatedly baffled by unexpected swimming behavior of prototypes.
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I will say what not to use... Acetone. I tried that and it inhibits the complete polymerization and results in a jelly.
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In general I would say wood glue is not waterproof but does resist water for a little while when cured. Not a problem if only used as a wood sealer assuming you use a water proof topcoat.
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I just had another idea for sealing wood, how about wood glue diluted with a little water? I have used wood glue as a sealer before and have been happy with the low toxicity, fast cure time, and ease of availability.
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I have never tried propionate but in my experience the biggest factor affecting the ability to dissolve is the average molecular weight of the polymer and they are not all the same from batch to batch or mfg to mfg.
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Also should mention certain geometries delaminate because the polymer seeks the lowest energy configuration and contracts on itself.
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The brand that worked best for me is Oatey All Purpose Cement and I got it at Lowes. I added about 50% cement, 35% MEK and 15% Acetone. You might want to thin it out even more if you are only using it as a sealer. The higher MEK to acetone ratio the slower the solidification of the coating. With pure acetone I was getting the stuff to harden in about 5 seconds after dipping.
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Blame the federal government for imposing a 10% excise tax on all sporting goods equipment. I bet the margin on most goods at walmart is less than 10%.
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What about making silicon molds and casting the bodies with a dyed urethane foam?
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Might try some MEK. I use an ABS glue which is polystyrene and butadiene and is pre-dissolved in acetone and MEK. In a jar the stuff is milky white but when thinned out as a coating it is clear.
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Another thing to consider, when mixing by weight, use 1.10 more base than hardener. I always weigh out my hardener first, and then weight out 1.10 times more base.
