atijigs

Tube mold paid via paypal

I will take the tube mold if you still have it.

If you use the search function you will find a ton of info. You will find threads like this. http://www.tackleund...__fromsearch__1

You would do just fine.

Go with the heavy hook mold. Even at 100 at a sitting using a single cavity would not be a problem. Leave a couple of inches of lead in the pot when you are done. Just like a gas pump be there and aware as you remelt the lead. Just because it is not leaking when it cools does not mean it will not leak as it reheats.

Very well thought out and written Bob. It bring us back to the the original post. I knew what to expect. I made the order and was willing to wait. If I was given the notification when ordering the waiting time could be up to a year I may have still ordered. It was not custom work. I had some in mind but do to my experience will be going elsewhere. Communication goes a long way. Quote " I did get caught up eventually. I did keep after every job on my list and every service call that needed doing and eventually I got caught up to where I had a reasonable work load again." As a small business owner I completely understand. I would guess that by taking care off your customers the way you did they were well aware of the fact you had not forgotten them. Why advertise for new business when the paid customer is patiently waiting? You can shut down your e-store and not take new orders. If you don't want to lose the buyer put on a real time delivery date with a give or take. Personally I would go that route instead of spending money and time searching down negative comments and trying to make them go away. I don't need to hear they are going out Friday three times. I just need to know I am in line and not forgotten about, Many new people to the site are excited and have no idea what to expect because the posts get shut down and deleted. I am very happy and surprised this one has been allowed to continue.

I don't use a badger airbrush. I have a 10$ Harbor Freight brush. I am very happy with the results I get using Component Systems Vinyl paint. You can attach the brush right on the small paint jars. You need to thin it to about 50% and it sprays very nicely. For a top coat I just dip in the seal coat. It gives a nice chip resistant finish. I have not tried airbrushing the sealer but I'm sure you could. Dipping is just faster for me.

Same one. Good luck.

I have no doubt it is the same vendor. I was willing to be patient because I thought it would eventually come. I could understand increased sales and limited production for a quality product. If the vendor was not a sponsor here I would not have taken the chance. I don't think it is fair to condone this. Pulling the posts just makes it worse. Like I said, I knew and was willing to wait. Looks like an expensive lesson learned. I do find the new slogan on the banner quite appropriate..

No names will be mentioned. No need. My question is how long do you wait for a mold offered on a web site. Paid in full at the time of ordering. In your experience will it eventually come?. Phone calls and emails were all made. Going out on Friday. We all know that story. Now the emails are ignored. I took the chance. It was not a custom mold. Do your molds just show up one day when you have given up all hope? It will be coming up on 10 months. I have been around a while. No names are mentioned here. I think TU should think about limiting sponsorship.

Use the D2T 30 min. and use it sparingly. It will run. It flows out smooth but it is very easy to get to much on. I like to hang my jigs by the eye when ever possible. It takes the same amount of time but you never have a problem with drips and runs. It's easy to do. Use a thin wire- like a Christmas tree ornament hook. and slip a walking sinker over the hook. Cure and you can easily pinch off any runs. I shoot for no runs but I still get surprised from time to time. Especially with the epoxy. Apply as little as possible.

Usually you don't need to clear coat powder painted jigs unless you are adding 3d eyes. I like use D2T epoxy over them so they stay. I just use a dab over the eye itself. You should get a nice finish on the powder paint right out of the oven. I will coat spinnerbaits and some jigs when I have time in D2T just because I like the way it seems to enrich the finish. I use a lot of vinyl paints too. These must be clear coated because they react with plastics. More help will come soon this is just a start.

The color wheel is a good start.

I will take temperature control over a fluid bed anytime. I have to because I have never used a fluid bed. I don't see the need. I am pretty sure you will have some issues with certain colors even using the bed. White and black still give me trouble so I just cure them hook down. I usually cure my jigs at about 50 units per run and can't stand loosing any to a nipple.

The pot is not the problem. You have dirty lead. I clean all my lead before it goes in the pot. Clean the lead and pour into ingots. It will make your life easier. Pure or plumbers lead still needs to be cleaned before you use it.

The toaster oven is too much work for me. A griddle works just fine with no opening and closing. Just grab and dip.

SCAM This topic has been discussed in other forums. While researching this for a friend of mine that sold furs and got a similar email order I found this printing site discussing the scam. It's done with stolen credit cards. You get stuck with the shipping charges and the cost of your products. http://www.advertisingmiami.com/blog/2009/10/how-the-printing-quote-scam-doesnt-work/

Your best bet then will be to place a rivet or a round head bolt in the mold. I tried a bunch of different materials. The one I thought would work the best-a round ice blade with jb weld worked a couple of times. I found it much easier to punch the eye slots in after the jigs are poured. It is an extra step but I can do it quickly and on all different style jig heads without altering the mold at all. I can go down to 1/32 oz. with little if any distortion to the head. The advantage to punching in the eyes is if you use any vinyl paints you can put the eyes in after. Powder paints need the eye recesses in before they are painted. Even cured the paint will chip or crumble.

Remove the two hex head screws holding the lever wire down. This will allow you to remove the plunger assembly. Any residual lead should just lift out. I have never taken it any further than this. You can clean the the plunger and use a wire to clean the spout from the top and bottom. Thats all I have ever done and it worked out just fine. I know you can buy replacement parts so I am sure the nipple can be removed. I just didn't see a need to remove it.

You can pin your mold. My question would be how many are you pouring at a time? Are you looking to make hundreds or thousands? If the numbers are in the thousands you would want a mold machined for you. Anything less you can pop 3d eyes in very easily with a punch and a block.

That is some good stuff. I'm glad the question came up. Thanks for sharing.

Is there a link to that thread. I tried to find it but came up empty. I am guessing a water transfer decal but would like to see how it is done. Thanks.

Maybe you can contact Del. Email doesn't work.

Keep in mind that when you purchase your dual injector you are going to like the results so much that you will most likely be getting more molds. You can break down the basstackle injectors to have 2 separate ones also. The bigger one is not that much more but you can shoot 2x as many baits with it.. ( I'm sure you checked this but make sure the tip is not clogged with old plastic).