atijigs

My attachment did not work. I will try again.

Interesting question. ~4 years ago I went to an estate sale in Northfield MN. It was the estate of Mr. Kahle himself. He had died earlier but his wife had just passed away. Before he died he had sold his company to Eagle Claw. He did however have a garage full of hooks that were sold at this auction. I purchased many thousands. Some were dated back to when they were called life saver hooks. All of them are in new condition.Some were manufactured in France. I have yet to find any rust anywhere. I keep these in the basement where I work but they are in the furnace room. I would think unless the packaging gets wet you should not have to worry. These are very old, hooks.

I can"t wait to see them. Do you have a special tube jig head too ? Are they nose weighted?

I can"t wait to see them. Do you have a special tube jig head too ? Are they nose weighted?

Most incomplete fills are temp or pressure related.. Cycle the plastic through your injecter a couple of times. If the plastic is hot enough you should get the complete fill. Make sure you have enough plastic too. It will cool faster if you don't have much to draw from.

I have never been a fan of the toaster oven. I use an old cast iron electric skillet. Set the temp at 350 and load it up with jigs. I wait 5 min. after the thermostat says it's at temperature. I dip my jigs and I want the fuzzy appearance. I also look for a painted but open hook eye. If the hook eye is closed with paint I turn the temp down. The same time I am doing this I have a heat gun going on low. Once I know I have total coverage and the hook eye is still open I run it through the heat gun to smooth the paint out. There is a small window between the fuzzy stage and just starting to smooth out that is a perfect time for adding additional colors. I don't like having to worry about drips when I cure them. Some colors depending on manufacturer will run more than others. For me the Whites and blacks are the worst. The heat gun really is helpful and does not need to be fancy. I bought mine for about 8 bucks at Harbor Freight several years ago. One more tip is with smaller jigs I will heat them more than 350. I find the hemostat I grab them with will cool the tiny jigs enough that I have to pass them through the heat gun for a second or two before I dip them. I alway like to error on the cool side. Too much paint and the jigs must be stood up to cure vs hung.

I am curious what the preferred method of rigging the Bears frog. We are still in the hard water season here in MN. so I can't test it out yet. I was hoping you guys could save me some time this spring. I have several poured up and have a couple of ideas but is there a specific rigging system that does not inhibit it's action or buoyancy ? I know a lot of frogs go with double hooks. I have those available too.

Thanks for the tips guys. I got it figured out today. I was backing off the pressure to soon. Complete fills every time now.

I got my new 4 inch Bears tube mold today. I tried it a couple of times. On the third try I got about 1/2 of the tail poured. (Thats the best one of the 3) I'm using mf soft and got complete shots of the 4.5 frog and complete pours in a 5 inch senko injection mold by hand pouring after shooting the tube just to test the plastic temp. Do I need to heat the mandrels? Title should say injecting tubes.

Are you asking about the open or R bend on a spinner bait wire? If you are this can easily done with 2 nails. No pliers needed. You have to trim the heads of the nails but you can make quality, uniform spinner bait wires easily.]

The pour spout is closed with dross. I open it up with a small file bent at a 90 degee angle or a small wire. I personally do not smoke molds or pre-heat them. I do use pre-cleaned soft lead. This is where I differ from many here. I love the soft stuff. Pour enough and your problem will be how to stop the runs.

The pour spout is closed with dross. I open it up with a small file bent at a 90 degee angle or a small wire. I personally do not smoke molds or pre-heat them. I do use pre-cleaned soft lead. This is where I differ from many here. I love the soft stuff. Pour enough and your problem will be how to stop the runs.

You will have to hold it down. Once you make the first wrap the wire snugs up on the pin. I never use this anymore because it's a little awkward to use.

Here you go. i hope this helps. I thought it would be easy. My computer skills are sub par. Just so you know you can take a small needle nose to form the loop and make it easy on yourself. This is the way the wire former is supposed to be used. I left the resolution high so can read the steps. It really does a nice job for light wire and 11 bucks.Worth tutorial.bmp Worth tutorial.bmp Worth tutorial.bmp Worth tutorial.bmp Worth tutorial.bmp Worth tutorial.bmp Worth tutorial.bmp Worth tutorial.bmp Worth tutorial.bmp

It really does a nice job for light wire. Lay it on the table with the spinning handle torwards you. There will be a pin sticking out of the bent up corner. That is where you start your bend. Hand wrap the wire around that pin as close to 360 degrees as you can. Next slip the loop you just formed around the post on the spinning handle. Lay your wire in the slot and turn the tag 90 degrees in the slot. Turn the handle clockwise and push as you turn. It will give you a nice wrap. This works great for light wire. If pics are needed would be happy to post them.

The way most of the pan fish ice blades are made is with solder. The smaller blades and ant's really are easy to make. You just need support for the hook and blade. This is what I thought the original poster was asking about.

Adding a barb is easy. You can do that on one half of the the mold. No need to have it machined.

It worked I'm back in!! Vinyl is a great dipping paint. It is not plastic friendly so it will have to be seal coated. If you use the CS vinyl paints you need to use the seal coat and not the clear gloss to make them worm proof. I will say that I like powder painting but if the hook eye is closed with paint after you dip it you will have drips. The trick is to have the jig at the right temp to work with powders. Not all the powders cure at the same temp and I like the way the colors blend. Vinyl dipping is easy and if the fumes don't bother you I think it is more user friendly. I just want to say that I was here before. I had a computer crash and because of email address and username and multiple tries to get it resolved I had to sign in with a different user name and email address. I tried to do everything by the book and contact administrators but it would not work. My previous screen name was DDSBYDAY and as far as I know I was not banned or caused any problems to the site. Is there any way I could go back to the way it was before the crash or do I start over? Nothing like being told your email, screen name is being used already and you can't contact admin because you are not a registered user.