Painter1

I have some on order to check it out. My theory is a lot of salt and HD additive to make the core, but the bait weighs 1/2 oz and the core is only 3" long. http://www.landbigfish.com/Keitech/Keitech-Salty-Core-Tubes.cfm I'm not interested in duplicating this tube bait but the concept is intruiging. It could create some options if a heavy core section were added to a creature bait, magnum lizard or maybe just the center of a wacky worm. Of course there are other time-proven ways to imbed weight in a soft bait to get it to "back up" on the fall. Don't know if it is a better mousetrap, but it is different.

Keitech makes a solid tube bait with a heavy core. Any idea what that material is?

I do what Bassinfool does but let the baits sit overnight at least. It amazes me how much scent they will absorb that way. Put a few drops of worm oil in the bag, lay it flat and squish the oil around makes the inside easy to deal with.

I don't have a recipe for you but recently started using some of the dye colorants that Spike-it sells. Call them and they might be able to steer you in the right direction.

Thank you. That was just what I was looking for.

I would welcome any suggestions for bagging options on bulk quantities of 50 to 250 baits. The bags need to hold up to scented worm oil and would ideally be resealable. I don't know if a twist tie is a good option. I read that ziplock bags won't hold up to worm oil?

Steve told me to send it back to him. He thinks it is a bad thermo-coupling.

I have been using my new Rite Heat pot and really like the way it heats & holds the plastic at a steady temperature. The plastic does not overcook in the Rite Heat Pot like it can in a Presto Pot when I am working slow. The problem I am having is the dispenser spout does not work. I does not get warm enough to keep the plastic hot. My temp probe reads 100 degrees at max setting. The company put a second heater and controller on the unit just for the spout. Are you guys having to insulated the spout to keep it warm?

For a small operation I am guessing one would need a rectangular block-like container to hold the hot plastic (maybe a mini-loaf pan on a hotplate) and an L shaped rod to dip into the container. Assuming they were small, several of the pans could be on a hotplate.

All I get is some sound from those clips. Any advice on horizontal dipping would be welcome

Speaking of gloves! I was pulling hot plastic from a heated pot with a BT injector and it "kicked back" splashing the hot plastic out. I had on gloves, my heavy Duluth shop apron, respirator and safety glasses. I had to strip off my gloves quickly but I was unhurt. I haven't been doing this very long either but am darn glad I listened to these guys about the PPE. I must have gotten the tip clogged and created a vacuuum when I drew the injector rod.

Seems right to me. Might make the difference for bed fishing. Let us know how it works

Spike-It sells a dye nuetralizer that will prevent bleeding to other baits.

Thanks guys. I bought the plastic in 2.5 gallon containers and shook it the best I could. The CC comes in 2.5 gallon boxes and is a bit easier to shake, but neither is easy. I used the Calhouns within days of recieving it but it may have sat for awhile. I will be certain to shake the next batch better. I don't think temp is an issue.

I had been using CC Soft and recently used Calhoun's Soft. The baits are stickier using the Calhoun, even after several days. Is that normal a "normal" or "usual" difference?

Bears has good bags

I cant seem to get the site to load properly now with Chrome. Hae to use IE

There is a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlKr3I4AQhA&feature=youtu.be Made by Jason of Caney Creek Molds that might be helpful. Also, Lucky Craft makes a floating nylon line called "Iron Athlete" that works better than mono for me. It does not get water logged like my mono seems to after awhile. The only downside is that it is bright yellow, but that hasn't seemed to matter in my experience with it. http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Lucky_Craft_Iron_Athlete_Mono_Topwater_Line/descpage-LCIAMT.html

I finished up bagging the worms I had by adding abot 2/3 table salt to 1/3 Bears fine salt and the color is not masked as much. I guess I need to find some worm oil that is not Anise or Garlic. I'm not a fan of either of those.

Do you close the bag and smoosh the oil around or just drip it in there?

I made a bunch of worms, put them in a container with some anise worm oil and smuushed it around until everything was coated. After bagging there was some excess oil in the bag. A week later there was still enough excess that the baits felt oily when removed. I put the next batch in a container with Bear's very fine worm salt, shook it and the true bait color is obscured by the white powder. They are easy to handle though. Is the answer a different salt? Less oil? I sure would like to know what works for you guys. Thanks Mike

I just wanted to give a shout-out to Carolina Mike and the sprues he sometimes has available. I melted several gallons worth and shot 470 worms today with the SS system. I added several cups of virgin plastic to each pot and it worked great. I'm not sure how many times I can remelt but I plan to try to use the sprues from today's batch.

I was taling to some guys who tell me I need to try this color at Table Rock and LOZ. Does anyone have a recipe for California 420? I searched the forum but drew a blank. Seems like an odd name for a color...just saying Thanks for your help

I ordered a 6 quart unit today after talking to these folks several times. Based on Frank's help I asked if they could do a smaller spout and they were happy to do it. The 6 quart unit with the recommended 2nd heat controller for the spigot is $635. I am eager to try it.