Slims

the lures are 3/4" and 1"

Whats up guys? I have switched in the last couple of weeks from making soft plastics, to buying micro cranks. I spent a crap ton of money buying snap beans and nano cranks, and they are great. I have fortunately stumbled upon what look like snap bean clones from china. I just got my first order in, and when held next to a legit snap bean, they are almost identical in shape and size. My question is: What is the best way to repaint because the paint jobs of these chinese imports leave much to be desired. Should I invest in an airbrush from harbor frieght? What size compressor do I need? I have never air brushed before so I am completely clueless in this respect. Should I sand off the old paint job, or can I just give a new white base coat and go to town? What is the cheapest clear coat I can use for my first few attempts? Thanks for the responses guys.

Thanks guys. I appreciate it.

So i am beginning to shoot 2 color plastics. Im using the basstackle stinger mold and the stinger tail mold and the trout mouse kit which is the trout worm and a salmon egg head. The two colors which i shoot separately are bleeding together a few days after they are connected. For example: i shot clear with Christmas tree flake for the stinger tails. Placed the tails in the stinger mold and then shot a junebug body. They adhered perfectly and the color separation was also perfect. I checked a few days later and the colors were bleeding together at the joint. Now a week later the junebug has slowly bled to the bottom of the tail. Im using lurecraft 60/40 blend and all lurecraft colors. Is there anything i can do to arrest the bleeding of the colors? I mean why sell 2 part molds if the colors always bleed? Does this also happen with the twinjector? Thanks for the help

Finally an answer. I was unaware that it was specific to fishing tackle. That makes better sense. So do i have to get a tax id if i plan to sell any lures or can i just claim it as income when i do my taxes?

I have read a lot of these threads and i understand most of you guys are in the "get a tax id and report your earnings". I also think that is the safe thing to do and honestly the hassle of it is what keeps me from selling any of my lures. But it got me thinking about ebay and swap meets etc... If you insert anything other than plastic lure in the sentence it changes my outlook. I seriously doubt that aunt mary who sells her hand stiched pin cushions and hand knitted doilies on ebay has any sort of tax id. I doubt uncle vinny that sells used cds and hand tools at the weekend swapmeet at the local juco has any tax id or reports "earnings". I would go out on a limb and say most ebay sellers dont report earnings. I know if i actually sold any baits it would barely cover the costs of buying more plastisol or colorants or molds. So in your opinions what is the difference? Why do ebayers and swapmeeters and yard salers get a pass? Just curious

hows it going guys? i have been using big hammer 3" swimbaits in the surf for some pig surf perch. i would like to shoot my own so i can mess around with colors. i currently only have my phone for internet access so i was hoping one of you guys knew which injection mold is closest to that 3" big hammer. thanks guys

thanks for the reply but it is worm oil i added to the baggy before i put the worms in there. thanks for the reply but it is worm oil i added to the baggy before i put the worms in there.

I just got in contact with Rick at Jacobs. He said he has changed the sprues on his molds to be compatible with the 5/8" nozzle tips. Fast reply too. I look forward to doing business with him.

There wasnt one listed on the jacobs web page.

I still have a tiny bot of the supersoft I didnt use. Can I add a small amount of plastisol and the hardener, then add that mixture to the remelts? I am happy with the plastisol I am currently using from lurecraft, I dont plan on buying MF again.

I have read up on the injectors, and I see that jacobs uses a small tapered injector rather than the 5/8 tip del, bear and basstackle all use. Is there a company that sells an adapter I can slap on my basstackle injector that will fit in a jacobs mold? Ive read some of the comments made about jacobs, but honestly his molds are more up my alley. I do a lot of trout and panfishing and he has a lot of small bait molds I want to buy, but I would just really rather not have to buy another injector. The basstackle one works great already. Any tips? Thanks

No, the worms are not salted. I am just unhappy with the softness of them. The action on them is sick, but they are only good for one fish, sometimes one strike. Also, I just read another thread and it said I have to add hardener to cold plastisol, then mix it with the remelt? That will affect the colors a bit..... Oh well. I guess at this point the only issue is whether or not the worm oil I added to the bags will be an issue?

My first run of plastic worms was on MF supersoft, and the worms are too soft to sell. I have over 1200 worms in different colors that I want to remelt and reshoot, but I want to add hardener. What is a good hardener to plastisol ratio? Lets say a cup worth of plastisol? Also, all the worms have been bagged and oil has been added to the bags. How will that affect my remelt? Thanks.

Honestly, I would say just sell them on ebay. Thats what I recently decided for myself. If you enjoy pouring and using the baits, just sell enough on ebay to cover more plastic and new colors/additives. I look at it like this: I spent 22 dollars on plastic, and whatever else on color/glitter. Ive been shooting trout worms. With that much plastic I have made over 1200 worms. If I sell packs of 12 for 1.99 on ebay, I only have to sell 15-20 packs of worms to cover my initial investment. Thats less than 20% of the product. Now I can buy more plastic and shoot more trout worms, or use the money to buy different molds, and so on. Like was said earlier, unless you are willing to invest a couple grand to get a pretty large scale operation going, you probably wont make enough to quit your day job. Ive actually been giving away packs to people at the local lakes if they ask my what Im jigging with when Im catching. I post pictures on locally known socal message boards, and people are always interested in trying new hand poured products. It will get your name out there. Also, you wont have to pay taxes or secure a bar code or any of that other nonsense. Just my 2 cents on the matter.

My mind was blown as well. I just went to a local hobby shop and bough the 1 lb bucket and followed the "every 2 little cups of silicone, asd 2 scoops of catalyst". What I did first was add dry rice to the mold box until it filled to the point I needed it to. Then, I used the measuring cups to scoop out the rice until it was gone. That many little cups of rice is how many little cups of the silicone I used. It turned out 4 little cups of the silicone is how much I needed and 2 scoops of catalyst. Now, how am I supposed to clean out the measuring cup and catalyst scoop? Just use dawn and hot water? Or should I use alcohol? right now the are just sitting in my garage, and I did a pretty good paper towel wipe to get most of the crap out.

I tried the search function, but rtv is too small of a search term. I want to try to pour an rtv mold. I only have two options locally, a 1lb batch or a 5 lb batch. I want to try the 30 dollar option before I spend 100. So, my question to you guys is: how many molds will 1 lb make? I know it depends on the box size, but lets say I want to have 3 trout worms in a mold. Also, should I make a rectangle, square, or circular box? Any info is appreciated. Thanks

Do you still have these molds?

Do you still have these molds?

Mostly because they have been sitting in worm oil for 7the months and I don't know how will affect the remelt, and also because I don't want to destroy them by adding too much hardener.

Does anyone know of a mold that is pretty close to a gulp fat sandworm? Im not a real big fat of the gulp material, or the gulp juice drying up in the bag and the baits being worthless, or the price tag associated with it. Any hand pour or injection mold that compare? If there are any, I havent found one. Thanks guys

Whats up guys? I started injecting trout worms last year. I bought a gallon of supersoft and started pouring. I made about 1200 worms. they felt awesome. Never actually tested them on the water. Well, they are too damn soft. Unless Im using a super thin wire mosquito hook they almost cant be baited. And, they are usually only good for one fish per bait. The action is sick because they are so soft, but I want at least a few strikes per bait as a consumer. What plastic do you guys suggest for really small baits like trout worms? Also, at this point I just want to unload the baits I have poured and make enough to buy new plastic. What are your suggestions on how to unload them? How should I approach the wording regarding the softness of the plastic and the fact it is a one fish bait? I am currently looking to sell on ebay and local forums, but I dont want my first batch being remembered for being cheap, too soft, wont stay on the hook etc. I also do not want to remelt with a hardener so thats not happening at this point. Any ideas? Thanks guys.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will try slowing down. I only feel like its an issue on the worms I sell. I want them to be as close to perfect as possible.

Hello to you all. I have just begun making my own baits. It is very rewarding and I enjoy it a lot. But, I am having an issue I cannot figure out. First I should say I am using m-f super soft and the 2.5 inch trout worm and curl tail molds from basstackle.com and a basstackle injector. Anyway, a lot of times after I inject the plastic, the tails of the trout worms and the grubs will be hallow, or have visible air bubbles. I assume they might be from stirring, but I always reheat after a stir to try to pop the bubbles. What else could be causing this? Is there some kind of remedy for it? Will I not have this issue if I use a harder plastic? Thanks for the help.