littleriver

Jack, Do not expect the paint to look like much until you get it clear coated. This really brings out the pigment in the paint especially when using cheap water based acrylics. Good Luck! Vic

A Mac So far so good. Just made two more three wire snake heads for a local tournament fisherman. I am sure they will get a workout. I am going to stick to the twisted wire until something tells me different. Since i am using wood for the bodies and only allowed three wires the extra metal helps make mine sink.

Here is a link I found in hard baits. http://www.yoyoing.com/wildjimbo/wjbmi/

I have been using flat round objects too but unhappy with this method for one big reason. If you go too far and mash the bubble of paint it will smear or not be the same as the other one. I have been thinking that an object with a spherical shape or pointed would be better. A shape like the end of of a safety pin as toadfrog suggests. This would allow you to touch the lure without mashing the bubble of paint and make a more consistent dot.

Here is my latest attempt: Vic

Ben, I do not know how Sebile is doing it either. But if I were to do it, I would bend the eye of a wide gap hook in line with hook the just hinge it on a pin inserted into body. PVC would probably be good for this style of bait. Vic

I do not know Don but I have not forgotten his lure since Gene showed me one. His work is beautiful and will live on. I have wondered more than once since that day what possessed Don to carve out the lure body the way he did. More than once I have thought I had it . I am certain the ideas he left will too live on through others. May he rest in peace.

Displacement is exactly right. When we add weight to the inside of our bait , displacement has not changed. But when a thick layer of epoxy is added to the outside of a lure surface, just like the steel hull of a ship, displacement value has certainly increased. Increased apparently , enough to take a sinking turd and turn it into a floating cruise liner. That helps explain why denser woods make better big baits than small ones. Vic

Jack, I am a beginner brush painter. I am learning to paint lures with small water color brushes. http://www.walmart.c...-6-set/17690352 I am following a method taught by Hans Nordin of Sweden. I was introduced to this by Diemai. Currently I am painting with "folk art"acrylics. http://www.walmart.c...t-2-oz/17300135 But any paint maybe used. The key to success is to thin the paint. I store thinned paint in a set of little plastic painter sets. Using a color wheel the paints may be mixed to just about any color you imagine. I use water based paints because of health, safety,cost and availabiity. I may paint on the couch or kitchen table without much concern of hurting myself or my family. The cost for this set is minimal. I would say for less than 15 bucks you could have nice setup. The little storage cups can be found at dollar tree for a buck. They of course have paint in them already. It up to you to throw this paint away or use. Might be good to play around with? http://www.dollartre...o?method=search Once you have your paint ,brushes and lure then it is up to your imagination. The first key to achieve soft shading is thin paint. The second is to use very little paint. Paint in very thin layers. Stencils may also be used or taping off patterns may also be done Just as in airbrushing. Her is an example of my latest lure using the above method. So far I have only done a dozen using the Nordin method. http://www.outdoor.s...din/wobbler.htm Prior to this I used the taping and stencil method. Here is an example of this style work. If your interested in learning more or have a question I have not answered here feel free to send me a message . Best of luck. Vic