littleriver

Super glue is super easy to apply, First of all, you want good ventilation. I like to have a fan going to provide a crosswind. Next you need thin super glue. Not the jello stuff. Zap makes a good product that I use. http://www.supergluecorp.com/zap/zap-ca I use the super thin wicking formula in the biggest bottle they make. The cheap dollar tree stuff will work but you'll be making lots of trips. Now you got your glue and a fan blowing, finally I like to have a paper towel handy. Ohh, almost forgot you need a work space where you don't mind a drip or two falling on the floor or your workspace. A drip pan is needed if your woking in a nicer space. Now to apply, I have tried a few but the one Iike the most is really simple. Take the bait and hold one end in your hand and let the other end point towards the floor. Take the glue and using the the tip of the bottle apply the glue to the bait starting about halfway up or a little more. Once you have the completely covered, take the paper towel quickly wipe off the excess glue. After the glued end of the bait has been wiped down with the towel, your ready to hold the end of the bait you just glued in your hand and finish gluing the unglued side. Believe it or not, even though the glue has not completely dried yet, because you wiped off the excess, the glued end may now be handled without glueing yourself to the bait. Super glue waterproofing takes less than a minute but I would wait at least 30 minutes before wetting the bait. The wicked glue takes a bit to completely dry. One way to know is by smelling the bait. Not recommended, but once the smell is gone I have found the bait to be completely dry. If you wet a bait before the glue has dried, the bait in part or all will turn white. When dry this does not happen when placed in water.

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@Ben I like the idea of devcon as a sealer but can't get past the process. I have a couple of BobP baits and know the "Ping" feeling your baits get once they are sealed with devcon. Really solid bait that will transmit every knock on the bottom or an object. I do know of another process that makes such a bait. Another great thing about devcon is once you seal with it your not only getting waterproofing but a smooth surface to paint as well. With super glue one will have to paint and sand several layers of base coat to get to a smooth bait. I guess I worry about the devcon getting into places i don't want and the cost of devcon are factors keeping me away.

@begs I never painted a plastic bait before but I have used BobP's advice on numerous occasions to make some really great baits.

I am super glue sealer as well. I think both options have advantages and the best way to figure out which one is best for your needs is to try them.

Begs Depending on what those blanks are made of will determine what is done next. Are they plastic or wood?

Thanks Ben We just got an academy recently. Will have to visit soon!

Fantastic!!! Thank you Dieter for taking the time to make and share this how-to !!! Thoroughly enjoyed it. I have often wondered how you drew those lines on your blanks. Always so nice on so many different shapes. I would have never guessed they were eyeballed. They appear to be perfectly centered every time. I too eyeball but without the benefit of lines. This leads to mixed results sadly . Perhaps in the future I will not skip this step and attempt to draw a few lines. I am sure it will take some practice to achieve your level of proficiency. No worries on the mess mate. Mine looks as messy. Perhaps worse, at least your able to find your tools.I really liked the pile of wood you have to work from just behind you in the closing shots. My own is not so high, as I am only a beginner. Ahhh.... perhaps some day. Have you heard about these short shank hooks? http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?ic=16_0&Find=Find&search_query=mustad+treble+&Find=Find&search_constraint=0 They make great front hooks and rear hooks for that matter. Solve alot of hook fouling issues on shallow or short cranks; yet, provide a strong hook for catching fish. Fish have a harder time throwing too because they keep the lure locked in close to hook. Biggest problem is cost. but I have been using as a front hook when I can afford. Thank you again my friend. Great video!! A real pleasure to see you in your space doing what you do . Many lessons learned. Thank you!!!!

@BassAboveThe49th Nothing in this thread is in reference to Dick Nite product.

I don't use Etex but a very similar product. Here is more about the product I am using. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/26819-another-epoxy-topcoat/

@CarverGLX Like markinorf, I too like bone. I was using this bait in bone this weekend on a clear lake and had very good results. Best fished early low light and cloudy conditions. I have seen some really nice fish with this bait and color. Friend was using foxy shad and too had several fish but they seemed to miss more than with the bone. http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Heddon_One_Knocker_Spook/descpage-HOKS.html

@basskandy Adding heat should shorten the dry time with the envirotex. This can be done by heating the room where your turning or heating the envirotex before applying. Some experimental test runs will be required if heating the envirotex before applying. Too much and it will harden before you get it applied. Just seconds in the microwave goes a long way.

Dieter's glitter glue baits are fish catching machines! I have one and it looks great and it has landed me many fish. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/gallery/image/10299-german-handmade-catches-east-tn-bass/

Look great bill!! How do they swim?

Looks good Ben. I would still flip my piece of wood and mark it twice just to be sure the wood piece your working with is square. If not, that line will go apart and come back together again. I am often working with bits that are not square and for this reason I really like my little block. The pencil rarely hits the middle but the space between the lines I know is always the middle. And really, that is all I am after.