Lund1900

Thanks, I was doing the same and thought I might be screwing up again.

I keep reading posts and you been saying to use the low setting on a heat gun. I would like to know why? Just curious.

What brand is best,(cheapest) that will work in my fluid bed. Bought one, and it really doesn't cut it.??

Any of you using bucktails with the ultra jig for walleye. I been using fin-s baits for the last few years. Nobody i fish with uses bucktail, just wondering if you have had any luck with them. I fish the river mostly. Fishing a couple of tourneys in the next couple of months and a back up bait might just make the difference.

We fish for walleye here 99% of the time, but once in awhile we catch a bigger toothy critter.

Thank you again

I have the ultra minnow jig mold, 1/2 to 11/2 oz. and the question i have is what hook can i use in the two smaller cavities,1/2 and 3/4oz instead of the 630. I bought some 570's and the shank was really short. I can't afford to keep ordering different hooks. Hope someone out there can give me an answer. Thanks again.

I just got through reading the lead topic which was fantastic. Got a question about smoking a mold. If i smoke it with a candle, is it wise to clean the mold afterwards or let the residue stay in the mold. OR is there a better way to get my mold ready to use. Thank you

Thanks alot for all the info, i will get back to making jigs now, Walleye season is close, the ice is finally melting in Lake Huron. Rich

I powder painted a bunch of jigs up Friday and didn't get a chance to cure them in the oven. Is there any set time after that i can do this task? I wanted to do them in the morning while the wife is gone, save a butt chewing. K-Mart has there toaster ovens on sale for 12.97 this week. Save a few bucks

Does it matter if you wait a day or two to cure jigs that were powder painted earlier? I have a batch done Friday and had to wait till the wife was gone to cure them. Frying pan along side of the head is painful guys!!!!!

Has anyone tried rod finish epoxy, like flex coat and thread master. I build rods and have had a few drops on my formica table top dry. It will take paint and you could mold it to any shape. Also, five minute flex coat epoxy, which i use to glue up handles and grips might also work. I just know when i clean up after applying it, it comes out dome shape and smooth. I add color to the rod finish when i do marbling on rods, so you can add a base color and paint the eyes dots after it dries. Just a thought. I'm getting ready to do some ultra minnow jigs with the eye cavities, and i will see how it work out. Rich

I am new to this forum, have read a lot of your topics already, but have a question for the group. I have the formula for the thinner, 3 parts distilled water, 1 part denatured alcohol, 1 part window cleaner,(without ammonia), few drops of Glycerin. My question is, can you mix this up and leave it. I might not use this much in six months, but i wouldn't mind putting it together if it will stay good, or do you mix small quantities up each time? Also read about the pledge future, but want to try one at a time to see which one i like the best. Thank you.

I agree with the above authors, but you need to turn your rod when you put epoxy finish on the guides, either by hand, once every 10-15 minutes to start and be ready to do so for about 3 hours, to be safe or buying a rod turner. Most of us use cork rings to build our split grips, but you can buy the ones that are already shaped if you don't have a lathe. You will still need to get a rat file and fit the hole to go on your rod. Take it slow, and try it often so they aren't to sloppy, you want a snug but not tight fit. If you make 8 marks on you cork, evenly spaced and file so many times on each mark, (say three times and turn) you should be fine. You can use masking tape under your reel seat, start at the grip side, fit your grip on it so it barely slides over. Make sure you leave some space for the glue to slide into next to the grip, 3/8" or so. then do two more with tape, each one fitted to the grip. Do this before applying epoxy. China markers are good to use to mark where you are going to put your split grip and reel seats. When you start putting on your guides, i use small rings cut from model airplane fuel lines, You can buy short pieces in different sizes to slide over your guides, Small strips of tape work if you aren't planning on building many rods, Slice it up into 1/8" inch wide pcs. Latex tubing will work also to hold your guides, thin strips, 1/4" Doesn't hurt for the first rod to draw a diagram, list your componets in the order you will glue them up. Epoxy holds real well, and once it sets you are stuck with what you have. (Rear grip, front grip, reelseat, small grip in front of reelseat if desired. )Clean up any glue or epoxy right away. Once its dried, to late. I use quick drying epoxy to make ramps in front of the cork for the thread to climb up, looks really nice, using a small 1/4 paintbrush. Sets quick, so you don't have to turn it long. Once you build one, it turns into a fever, be forewarned!!!!!!! I build quite a few rods, so if you have building questions, you can shoot me a line Rich richkendall@comcast.net Wide river rods PS: I am semi retired, (not lazy and old) therefore i fish, ALOT>

Kris, you can obtain a rubberized ring, (from Mudhole, Janns, ect), and flatten out you rear grip. Glue on the ring and file by hand to match your grip. I drill holes in mine, and put coins, (state quarters, cut off shotgun shell in the hole, cover with epoxy and it gives your rod a nice custom look. These rings are easy to file and sand down. Use epoxy to glue it up. they make the rings with a small hole in the center or solid.