haxx5300

Pretty much exactly what I was talking about. Now I'm curious if there's a better price to be had from anywhere else?? Prices like those make the paint more expensive than hooks!!

Hey guys, I'm hoping somebody here can point me in the direction to find a supplier for a particular "glow" powder paint. Or maybe just enlighten me on the process to get my desired effect. What I'm trying to come up with is a powder paint that glows the same color as the base color. For instance, a pink powder in the light that when in the dark (and charged) it glows pink as well, instead of pink in the light and the standard green glow in the dark. I have directly contacted two major powder suppliers (PBTP & All PP) and the best they have are glow additives that glow "that" particular color. None of which are even close to the colors I'm looking for. If I can find them I would like to get several colors, but I can't seem to find anybody out there that makes such a product. I know it exists though as I've seen it with my own eyes. If anybody out there can point me in the right direction to find some of this particular powder (or teach me the technique) I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

Dremel. I've got three, all modded for flat eyes in the garage. Piece of cake.

Anybody out there know how to make your paint glow the color that it is?? Like make a "glow pink" powder actually glow pink as opposed to the standard green that most paints glow. I've seen additives that several companies sell and I'm curious if this is the solution or if its a "special" paint. Thanks again in advance for any input.

Have to throw it out there, LPO sets the standard for customer service!!! Not only have they always taken great care in getting orders out promptly, but they also go way out of their way to fix problems and help the "little guy". Without going into too much detail, so as not to cause problems, they certainly stepped up and worked with me on a large bulk order. Customer service that's second to none!!!

Or try a different filter material. I can tell you the paper bags do not release powder into my bottom chamber. Where inconsistencies come into play for me is how well the paint fluidizes. Some paints are heavier than others, thus requiring filtering tweaks. As I said, white will be a problem. I haven't seen anybody on here who has come up with an iron clad solution for fluidizing white powder. Every other color I have dealt with, besides white, I have had success with paper bags AFTER much experimentation. Virtually every person on here has their own way because of the difference in products, it's just your job to take the ideas many of the guys on here will provide you and make them work for your situation. I have success with paper bags. Others swear by and use nothing but coffee filters. Still others yet buy nothing but fluidizing cups from TJ's. it all comes down to what works best for you and the products you're using. I promise, with experimentation and a willingness to do so, you'll find a solution whatever it may be to this problem but for someone to try and tell you "doing THIS will work" it doesn't happen. Trust me, I've lived and died by some of the advice on here from many different guys on many different subjects (some from lurking and some from posts) and not everything I've been told has worked for me but through experimenting and research I've been able to get a pretty good thing going. There are some key guys on here that will give you the best ideas (cadman, smalljaw, atjigs just to name a few) but even their ideas are all based off their personal experience with the products they use. The only right answer is what works for you.

I, personally, had ZERO luck using coffee filters. That being said, I know a lot if guys on here swear by them. What I would assume you're dealing with is just powder making it's way through the filter. I'm not sure on the exact filter measurement for coffee filters, but I can tell you your average powder paint granule is around 3 microns. If you think about it, you can see through a filter with very little effort. That tells me they are very porous and inconsistent across the entire surface. Therefore, certain parts of the filter successfully hold the powder within the cup and other parts do not due to less or thinner material in that particular area. I personally use nothing but paper bags as filters. Even with the bags I deal with inconsistencies within the paper. I have even determined certain bags work better for certain paints and colors. Some I can use regular paper grocery bags and others I have to use your thinner cheaper lunch sacks and still others I have had to use the medium sized paper bags to get my desired effect. It all depends on your paint and color. Certain colors, white for example, will make you pull your hair out trying to get them to fluidized an others will do it, seemingly, just by looking at them. Experiment, experiment, experiment and when you think you're done and have it figured out, experiment some more. With all the different powders out there I can tell you without a doubt there is no right answer except the one that works for you and the products you use. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Sorry for the double post. It's what I get for posting from my phone. Thanks guys for all the advice. Cadman, since you've been pouring for probably longer than I've been alive (no offense intended lol), and I'm sure you've fluxed from jump, do you have "drippers" with your pots?? Is this a necessary evil or can it be SOLVED?? Yeah, it's not an exact science by any means, so I'm sure there's really no guarantee to anything. I'm just curious, I guess, if I go ahead and order a new spout and plunger, as long as I flux regularly like I normally do, if the problem will become a thing of the past for me?? Thanks again to everybody.

My whole reason for cleaning was I was getting incomplete pours due to rust being expelled with the lead into my molds. Since my post last night, I have taken the spout out (for all that are or have wondered it does come out) and found A LOT or rust in it. I took a wire tube brush to it to get it out, which now it looks almost new, and the problem has gotten better but I still have a fairly steady drip. It looks as though I may need to order a new plunger and spout though, as after testing a few minutes ago the drip is MUCH better and manageable but still there. I don't expect that it will go away completely, even with new parts, but I'm afraid once I fill my pot with lead (I tested with probably 3-4 lbs) it will just get worse. Long story short, I'm dealing with a hand me down pot from somebody that NEVER fluxed, so now I'm trying to fix all the problems that come from not fluxing.

My whole reason for cleaning was I was getting incomplete pours due to rust being expelled with the lead into my molds. Since my post last night, I have taken the spout out (for all that are or have wondered it does come out) and found A LOT or rust in it. I took a wire tube brush to it to get it out, which now it looks almost new, and the problem has gotten better but I still have a fairly steady drip. It looks as though I may need to order a new plunger and spout though, as after testing a few minutes ago the drip is MUCH better and manageable but still there. I don't expect that it will go away completely, even with new parts, but I'm afraid once I fill my pot with lead (I tested with probably 3-4 lbs) it will just get worse. Long story short, I'm dealing with a hand me down pot from somebody that NEVER fluxed, so now I'm trying to fix all the problems that come from not fluxing.

Yesterday I went through my Lee Pro IV pot and gave it a good cleaning. Followed instructions that I received on a previous post (almost 2 years ago) and now that I've put it back together after cleaning it drips uncontrollably. Even if I give the plunger a turn or two it continues to drip (its still a drip but quickly nearing a stream) making it extremely difficult to pour or get complete pours when I can fit it in between drips. I didn't do anything more than run a broken hook through the spout hole and lightly scraped the inside of the spout to try to remove some of the rust on the inside of it. Apparently by trying to make life easier I've managed to cause myself more grief and I'm hoping somebody here can help me find a fix without having to buy a new pot. Considering I've got a ton of standing orders waiting I need any help as fast as possible from anybody who has encountered this. Thanks in advance.

I know its been said before but I now have to say it again, Charles at Fishing Skirts is a real class act. Any newbies out there looking for skirt material need to check them out. After talking with him for about an hour yesterday I'm very excited to see all of his (and his pro-staff's) new ideas in the coming year. Thanks again Charles for the great products and service you provide to all of us.

I found mine with a raised rack at a yard sale....think I bought it for a buck. I have seen some new ones with double racks but they are all about 125 times what I spent on mine. I can hang 120 3/8 oz jigs at a time. It definitely has paid for itself many times over but I'm now leaning toward the new double rack oven idea as I have out-grown this one . As to what temp and how long I shall refer to an abomination amoung men and say read your directions that come with the paint. Depending on what paint you're using the cure times and temps differ. Every supplier including Pro-tec that I have bought from has had curing temps and times. The standard seems to be anywhere between 350 and 400 degrees for 10 to 20 minutes. Every person on here I'm sure has their own special formula, the best is probably start at the recommended temps and times and fine tune to your liking from there. Good luck!!!

Actually, now I feel I need to retract my earlier statement about this looking like a mess ... based off preliminary inspection I would have to say I'm fairly happy with how the JB Weld worked out. It took the rattle mold very well and came out clean as a whistle without chipping out any of the patch. Now I say preliminary because I have yet to pour anything through it as it will require some light dremel work to clean up some rough spots but just looking at it I would say it'll work (famous last words right??). I'll see for sure tonight. Thanks for the replies guys.

So the modelling clay stays put pretty well and doesn't stick to the rattles after pouring?? How many pours do you think you get between touch-ups?? Might have to try that after I see if this mess I call JB Weld patch I've got here turns out ... right now, I'm not liking the looks of it.

Suggestions on how to go about curing my flashing problem?? Any suggestions for a release agent for the rattle or shouldn't I need it?? Thanks for the reply.

I've heard of guys using JB weld to patch modifications gone awry and was wondering how well it works. I recently modified a Do-it mold to accept a rattle and managed to mill out a bit too much causing flashing down the side of the rattle. To all the folks out there that have patched with JB weld here's my question: Being the area I want to "patch" is so small will the JB weld adhere well enough in small amounts to the mold or is this generally something you'd use for the big oops?? If so, what are some recommended techniques for doing this?? Is it just as simple as it sounds?? Should I patch the entire slot and remill for the rattle or just patch the affected area?? If I just patch the affected area, I suppose I would put the JB weld in the spot to be repaired and then push my rattle into its spot to "mold" the JB weld into place but then how would I get the rattle back out?? Any release agents out there work for this application?? Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks

I'm wondering if anybody out there knows of a suitable replacement for the Mustad 38108 jig hook?? I have recently learned that these have been discontinued by Mustad and when they're gone they're gone. I'm looking for a heavy wire wide gap flat eye jig hook that will fit in a slightly modified do it football jig mold (3434). I need it to be in a black finish as well. I've heard of guys using the new Eagle Claws with some success but I don't think they have a flat eye wide gap. Any input would be appreciated.

Hey Cadman, would you be willing to send out a couple samples of those EL111BP?? I'd like to take a look at them prefferably without having to buy 100. I'd be happy to pay for them.

Hi guys. I am looking for advice regarding a decent compressor that will work nicely with one of TJ's Tackle air brush guns. Basically wondering what kind of specs I should be looking for to support this gun and be problem free. I know on his site they say it will run on 2-8 psi and 1cfm but everything I find is under 1 cfm. Even the $1000 ones. Would love to keep the cost down as much as possible right now considering I'm just beginning to dabble with this but still don't want total low end. Will the gun operate correctly as long as the psi is between 2-8 lbs and the cfm is below 1?? Any help would be appreciated.

Can anybody tell me if a #7 crane swivel fits in the finesse drop shot mold?? Or does it require some modification?? Any input appreciated.

Not to hijack any of cadman's sales but check with Grainger. I bought 4 6' long pieces of 1/8" PTFE from them for like $17. You'll end up with an entire bin full of base hole pins. As for the 1/16", I'm unsure if they offer anything that small but its worth checking into. Good luck. P.S. Cadman, I have known about this for sometime now and had no intentions of letting it be known because of your business from it but after Barlow's hijacked the idea and started undercutting you I figure its open season.

I have just started (in the past few months) making my own jigs and selling them at local tackle shops. I am now looking into getting everything "legal" and have been trying to figure out what exactly what I need to do to accomplish this. I live in Michigan, so I understand that different states have different regulations and taxes, but I need a base. I have researched everything I can possibly come up with online and a great deal of it reads Greek to me. To give some details to aid anybody attempting to help; I don't have or plan to have "employees", I dont plan to take out any loans in the businesses name, I plan to have a "business bank account", I have NO idea what taxes I need to plan on paying(with the exception of exice(sp) taxes, however, I don't know how much to plan on paying for this), it is going to be a sole proprietorship, I am planning to run said business solely out of my home, etc. If there are other factors that may make a difference let me know and I'll answer them to get the appropriate information. Anybody out there that may be able to direct me to the right information or throw me some info I would be grateful. Thanks in advance.

Thanks guys, its pretty much everything I was wondering. The only other thing I am wondering is do you remove the pot liner before taking the torch to it?? If not, the torch won't cause any damage to the element will it?? I realize this could be a stupid question considering it heeats up to 8-900 degrees, but as I said its a loner from a friend so I would really hate to damage it while trying to do some good for it. Thanks again to all you guys for the info!!!!

Does anybody out there have any tips, tricks, or advice for cleaning a Lee Production Pot IV?? I have drained all the lead out of it that I could to allow me to clean the pot but I am wondering what my best bet is to clean the spout and such. Does everything actually come apart to be able to work on it?? I found it virually impossible to get ALL of the lead out of the pot which left me with residue in the spout that I want to get out and clean out any contaminates that may be in it. This is a loaner pot that I'm sure hasn't been cleaned in the better part of 15 years so I'm thinking she's due for some routine maintenance. Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks