sportsfisher

bobP, what would you call "sustained immersion" using it for an hour, a full days fishing .....??? i was under the impression once it has fully cured it would be fine? i have used (for fly tying etc) different craft glues and polyurethane head cements that are 'water based' and they all state they are waterproof. how long were you leaving the clear to cure before you used it?

and thanks for telling me about the stuff reborn1105, ive found i can source this product, although a bit expensive, i will get some for sure. its the exact product ive been searching for. thanks heaps. Matt, i would be buying DN if i could get it.

thanks for that info, do you spray or dip that diamond finish?

thanks BobP, i can tell its going to be harder to work with than normal alum foil. i will have a go at it and see how it turns out.

hello, i have just got my hands on some Mylar that im hoping will be exactly what ive been looking for to do a particular lure colour, i have not attempted using it yet but i just thought id through a few questions out there incase anyone can solve a few problems that ive though of. firstly, ive read the tuorial (hazmail) already, which was great (thanks hazmail!). but i'm concerned the paint and clear coat will not stick to the mylar. which i think i read about somewhere on this forum before. is there anything i can do to promote adheasion for both airbrushing waterbased acrylics and clear coating? is there a type of clearcoating that will stick better than others? epoxy or urethane etc? thanks in advance.

i have personally just started making my own heads as well. from my experience, go with the powder paint. that way there are no problems with durability then and 1/10th of the time to paint them. i have tried airbrushing detailing over the powder paint but adhesion wasn't very good. although its fine after you have clear coated it. but still wont ba as durable as straight powder paint.

ok, i have had a look around but im struggling to find one that is totally clear, they all seem to have a golden hue to them. i did find one that is clear and non-yellowing, but its a water based product, will that be ok? it is still meant to be a very durable product.

thanks for the tip, i will try putting CP on first. have you found any adhesion issues from using the color lock and permagloss?

thanks bobp, i'll have a look for the mcu's

hello, i know there are plenty of topics about similar issues but i have a few questions that need clearing up. firstly, i am unable to source DN as i dont think i can get it shipped internationally (at a reasonable cost anyway) so i have been looking for a good single pack coating, i have epoxies etc but i'd like to not have to mix up 2 part epoxies etc if i dont have to. i have tries seal coat, simply wasnt hard enough. my main question here is about the use of urethanes like permagloss and LumiSeal. ive read that they react with some paints? (im using createx and autoair) if that is true, can the paint be sealed with something else before coating with urethane topcoats so it doesnt react? thanks.

sorry to bring up a slightly old post here, but i just thought of something worth mentioning. U40 rod bond (rod building epoxy glue) might be a good product to use for this purpose. they make it in a 10min as well as the slower curing stuff, but more importantly it has a really thick consistancy without having to wait for it to start curing.

problem solved!! some great ideas ther ! thanks again.

hello, im foiling a smooth sided lure (no scales), and i would like to have a scale pattern in the foil. i could paint a scale pattern but i would rather a indented texture to the suface of the foil. has anyone got a technique to get a scale pattern onto foil, when applying to a smooth surface.?

scuff with scotch brite or sand paper before painting.

yes, thats like what i want, i was thinking of buying/making copies of rapala original f5, f7, and maybe f9 sounds like if i want to have a go i will need to invest in a belt sander, thanks for the advice.