julle

I know this is sometimes the case and even for some specific fish around here. But I just want to give it a little more action to avoid it running still when lacquered. I know I should just start over with a different wood but I just wanna make this thing work:P The wood was so hard to carve so it would be a pain to not make the best of it. I'm going to drill a series of holes first in the top, the wood is plenty strong to have these air pockets in it. I know that grinding the lip edge to an angle will also work sometimes but this would be my resort because I suck at doing that.

Normally I make balsa baits and the line tie is directly in the lure body but this time i tried something different. I wanted a somewhat deep diving crankbait that would trow far and was durable. So I tried beech wood. Damn that stuff is hard! This would also be the first bait with a line to in the lip. So i just tried it out in the water but it was not what I was hoping for. It had some action but not enough. I didn't use any weights in the bait because the wood is already so dense, could this be the problem of it lacking action ? It's JUST floating in the water when it has hooks on , and I suppose it might even suspend when painted and lacquered. Would it work if i drilled a couple of big holes in the bait and sealed this up to up the buoyancy a little? Or should I change something with the line tie or the lip? thanks

ok thanks for checking glad to hear that haha

I noticed the same thing before but I doubt it, he must be using some super super glue to hold it that tight, I guess it's just a very shallow precise slot. The action is very nice indeed, nice hunting action like most Finnish wobblers.

Here's another one from a Finnish private company, a little more detailed.

Does anyone have any experience with the revo s if so is the side play i have in the video normal? I bought this reel unused trough the net and this is my first baitcaster so I haven't got much experience with them. Apart form the side play the baitcaster casts great, i'm still waiting for my first backlash.

oh wauw thanks, I'll try that

I think my wire is just to hard, If I do that, it just springs back a little, I can never get it that tight.

Can't take a picture so I made this in paint Just so you get the idea

It could be a tad softer yeah, but I can't find anything like that around here, or it has to be something like gardening wire, which is way to soft

Well after some fiddling I manage to get the wire quiet close together, I used 3 pliers and brute force. It's still not what i'm aiming for but it's alright in the image the top one is what i'm aiming for and the bottom one is what I was getting. With thinner wire i'm able to bend it nicely but this is just so strong.

I was about to do that until I realized I left my camera cable 3000 kilometers from here at my grandparrents:P i'll see what I can do

I'm having trouble bending some thick steel wire for my true wires. I'm used to bending 0,6 to 0,8 mm wire but I wanted to try some bigger baits and tried 1,0 mm wire. It's really hard to get a nice and close bend at the eyes. It get more like a horizontal U shape in stead of something like an -o I tried heating it up and bending it, it worked, but the wire gets really fragile and breaks when I try to bend it. Do you guys know any tricks?

Like he said, I basically use the bar from my dumbbells , it has the same kind of diamond pattern as most tools but bigger. I've also used regular netting which i pressed in to the foil real hard leaving the indent.