Anglinarcher

Powder, and yes, I could heat in a microwave IF it was in the plastic, but I saw NO advantage to that and it would only be timer before would cause problems.

No issues, I have added it for years in some of my soft plastic swims. Works great.

The drop shot clips are not the correct ones to use. Bass is giving the correct information.

Platinum cure reacts to some chemicals and won't set up. If it has Sulphur for example. Cover the Krylon with another clear and give it another try.

It will turn it gray, unless you do some things to prepare it. They make a clear that works and Engineered Angler on YouTube has some excellent ways as we;;/

Sorry, off for a while. IF I feel a need for a 2nd coat, I rub it with alcohol to clean any oil from it and just apply. No scuffing necessary.

I copied this off the site. I removed some items not applicable to the conversation. ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS Product: AlumiFoam Color: Brown Mix Ratio: 1:1 by weight or volume Pot Life: 45 seconds Rise Time: 75-90 seconds Demold Time (100 gram mass): 10-15 minutes 3-5x expansion Flex Modulus (psi): 50-1200 flex strength _____________________________________________________________________________________________ The pictures of the bottles match; I kind of figured you were using a different foam, like the 320 or 610. One thing that did not seem right is that your foams seem different color(s) compared to what mine come out as, a brown or dark tan. I see the specs say it is a brown also. The ones I mold will not flex, just like it suggest when it says it takes 50 to 1200 psi. In fact, when the stuff first came out I did a mold and took the lure and hammered it, yes, with a hammer, and it did almost no damage. I had a video on YouTube a long time ago but my wife took my channel down. I then took the same lure and tied it to about 5 feet of line, and the end of a fishing rod, and repeatedly smashed it into my concrete patio. It took several smashes to break it. This lure blank did not even have a wire frame in it. Recently I made some floating jig heads, without hooks, for a friend so he could cut a grove, insert his hook, and glue it in. He could not get his saw to cut it (I use a Dremel cutoff wheel). So......... what is the difference? I am not sure, but I have to believe it is one of a very few things. 1) The bottles are not properly mixed. Sometimes shaking it is NOT enough. I have used a bent wire on a drill to mix it. Don't worry about bubbles, you will make more. 2) User error, not mixing correctly. Follow the directions exactly, and if necessary, have a friend come over and do it and watch them to see if it comes out different. Do not instruct them, have them do it on their own. 3) Last option, and until the first two have been completely verified by competent and experienced people I won't accept it; you might have got bad bottle(s).

Dumb question, but you say Alumifoam. Please attach a photo of the bottles. I have a hunch, but will keep it to myself until I see the photos.

I have used D2T before, then switched over to AlumiUV for ease. I do use fairly stiff molds, but I have large vents as well. But..... you might be on to something.

I have not had that problem.

I have a wire bender, and a jig, and I can make all of my harnesses the same. Yes, figuring the original weight is tricky, but it works for me.

Does it count that I have used it on fishing rod wraps? It seems like it would work OK.

Vodkaman had one he made that was static. We discussed making one from a pump to make flowing water, but the amount necessary to get the correct velocity would take plumbing project. I still want to do it sometime.

My thoughts are that I/we would need to see a video of the pre and after action. I do have some thoughts though. 1) You are on the edge of having too much resistance and adding hooks tipped the balance. 2) The plastisol tail is causing too much drag, and ...... hooks tipped the balance. I still need to see more to answer with more than a guess.

A hint that will help perhaps. I use the 3rd hand tools from Harbor Freight or others to hold the parts together then I mix 50% epoxy with 50% Tungsten powder I get from Alumilite. It bonds as well as solder and is as heavy as pure lead. It is as dense as pure lead so it shows up well on the fish finder. The only drawback is the curing time, but, for me, it is worth it because I can use any hook I like.

My guess would be the Tin would be louder, but I have not tried it.

James did shut his business down, but he still makes some limited runs for friends, etc. He planned on selling his business but COVID hit and his buyers pulled out if I heard correctly.

and check out lurepartsonline.com as well as fishingskirts.com.

The Alumilite White works well for me. I am not sure of the price right now.

It really depends on how you are going to attach it and what your bait is molded out of. But....I have used both and I think the plastisol is faster to mold, but the Flex glues in a little getter. Still, both will work for you.

Yep, cast like crap, troll like a dream.

A Dremel tool, with a stead hand, and lots of practice????

Do you mean he "Flex Seal" we see with the guy sealing leaky boats, leaky basement windows, etc., etc. If so, then it is a liquid rubber, and I have no doubt the clear will work for YOUR application. It will not bring out the "pop" or ultra clear and depth that many of our preferred coatings do, but, and I want to emphasize this, there is not ONE clear coat for every application. No doubt it will not hold up well to pike or Muskie teeth, but I bet it will hold up to crappie and trout and similar small tooth critters very well.

Remember that there is so much more than wattage. You need to consider the wavelength put off and the required wavelength for the specific UV Resin you are using. Most UV sources have a fairly wide range of waves, but most also have a sweep spot that is strongest. I prefer 365 nm for what I use. Remember also that distance from the light is super important. If you double the distance between the light and the lure than you only have 1/4 the light strength. Yep, the strength of the light is inversely proportional to the distance squared. So, if Bob and Mark and I use the fingernail light curing lights, our lures are about an inch or two from the light. Let's assume that our lights are 10 watts each, and we have four lights in the device for a total of 40 watts. Now, assume Killintime uses his lights, 2 of them at 30 watts each. That is 60 watts total. Will his 60 watts cure his faster? Actually, I bet he is at least 4 inches from his lures, so his energy is only 1/16 as strong as ours (or about that, I'm tired and going by mental math LOL). So, our 40 watts compare to his 60/16 or less than 4 watts. Consider this when building some form of UV curing device. Engineered Angler has a good contained system but his is not the only style. The number of his lights, and the UV range, and the distance from the lure all make a huge difference.

I have no issues putting AlumiUV over Epoxy or Epoxy over AlumiUV. I think it depends on the UV.