Anglinarcher

Reminds me of cutting willows as a kid out here in the Intermountain West for the trout streams. I caught lots of fish then, and I see no reason it would not work now. I just fish for bigger fish, in bigger water, now and need the extra horse power. LOL

I have used enamel paint, in my youth, and in my old age, I strongly suggest that there are lots of much better options. It is just a real pain.

AlumiUV for me. Seems to work the best for what I do. D2T is my back up.

Actually, this is pretty normal. If you do it too early, or too late, then the motion is either not complete enough, or too much.

Yes, lighted lures have been done, and due to the technology available at the time, the company is also done, cuput, dead. I think it used a red LED. I lived in Washington State and in the 90's, through maybe 2005, there was a lure that was available that used a sealed hearing aid battery and lighted the lure only came on when it was in the water (the water completed the connection). I think the lure was called the Lightning Lure, but I am not sure. I only had one and the water got into the battery compartment and destroyed it. It was a highly sought out lure for Steelhead fishing at night with the trollers. But, one in 4 did not even work out of the box and 3 of 4 would not work after one trip. That caused huge returns and massive outcry from the fishermen. I can see how a LED would work fine, but sealing the compartment for the batteries would be an issue. Still, my watch is waterproof. Energy recapture technology is not new, but the ability to use it is developing. Like Josh mentioned, examples are the lights that charge by shaking them, or the shoes that light when you move and walk in them. Typically that adds weight to the system, but if you can remove or dual use the weight for ballast, then it should work.

.035 will hold any fish. A heavier wire will bend less when stressed. I tend to go with the .041 so the spinners bend less and therefore last longer.

Tough question for sure. I am not sure that I have a "favorite", but several favorites. Top Water, Larry Dahlberg's Whopper Plopper. Top Water or slow sinking, a glide bait. Larry Dahlberg Mr. Wiggly soft plastic. Spinner, the Double Cow Girl. Swimbait style, a big bait like the Boot Tail lures. I don't get to fish for Muskie, or Tiger Muskie, often anymore, but the above were my my go to lures. I believe that improving any of them would be right on track.

IF you have the patent number, you can search it out and see if it is sill effective. Lots of patents still get stamped that are no longer valid. Just like Patent Applied is stamped to discourage people from making copies, even if the item is not patentable.

Patents only last so long and the Delta blades have been out for at least 40 years that I know of. Knock offs of that blade and lures made with that blade are everywhere. Was there one, probably. Is there a current one, I doubt it very strongly.

Does anyone remember the biodegradable fishing line that came out about 10 years ago. Sure seems like it "dissolved" right out of the market.

I agree. I prefer chrome at times, but the lead gets painted, but never the chrome. I use brass most of the time.

LOL, it hurts looking at it, but fish long enough and it happens. I have used pliers to remove them, same as a string.

I love and seek chrome lures. It is just almost impossible to get them, especially ones that last.

And that is the reason so many of us keep looking. I even looked at doing small scale electroplating, but ....... environmental issues prohibit it. I have seen some claims that you can coat it, but must not brush the coat on. Sally Hansen Hard as Nails clear is reported to work if you do not touch the surface with the brush. I have my doubts (LOL) but will test it some day. I have used chrome Krylon and found out that if I use the Hard as Nails and did not touch the surface with a brush, or my fingers, it came out pretty well. I then used my UV cure over that. Still, lots more testing to do.

ALSA also has drying and prep requirements that would require tons and tons of time for each lure. I posted them maybe 6 to 12 months ago. To be honest, the search feature for chrome on this site should light up like a Christmas Tree. Still, to keep the research up, I talked to a person I just met that did Auto Body for years. He is dying from the Bondo Dust, the Automotive Paint, etc., in his lungs, and he wore the "correct" respirator recommended in "the day". Auto Paints are known for creating metallic and candy finishes, so I did ask the questions. He is not a fan of the water based paints, but does say that they are probably healthier then the old solvent only paints. Most "water based" automotive paints still require a respirator and do have some solvent in them. My research to date suggest (not always tested) the following: Base Coat Sealer -- this will provide a proper base so you get the best results with the Automotive paints. It will adhere to almost anything. https://airbrushpaintdirect.com/product/6001-autoborne-sealer-white/ Aluminum -- This will give an almost chrome finish, especially if shot over a black base. DO NOT brush, touch, dust, etc., prior to coating over it or it will lose the shine. I have used this with a medium needle in my Talon AB (fine Aluminum) and would rate it a 8/10 after clear coated. http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Aluminum-Base-Coat-Med-4oz/productinfo/162665/ Metallic Silver -- an option to the Aluminum. http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Metallic-Silver-4oz/productinfo/163178/ Cleaner http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Cleaner-16oz/productinfo/162620/ Reducer http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Fast-Dry-Reducer-16oz/productinfo/162570/ Restorer http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Restorer-16oz/productinfo/162562/ Transparent Base http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Transparent-Base-4oz/productinfo/161224/ Metallic White - Can get metallic results from putting transparent paints over it. http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Metallic-White-Fine-4oz/productinfo/163174/ 4012 -- Generally added 10% per volume to paint. May be added in greater quantities to achieve best viscosity for atomization of paint. Non-reactive; does not serve as a catalyst. 4030 Balancing Clear | Mix Additive – Essential additive that enhances spray performance & coating durability. Mix with all Auto-Air Colors prior to use. Mix 4030 Balancing Clear 10 - 25% per volume or more with Auto-Air Colors for improved performance on non-porous, hard surfaces. Special mix ratio for candy2o: airbrush – 50% per vol. , spray-gun 50 to 100% per vol. 4030 mixed with Auto-Air Colors paint creates an acrylic-urethane paint which greatly improves spray performance. Leveling, flow and coating formation is improved when 4030 is mixed with Auto-Air Colors. 4030 works as an adhesion promoter when mixed with Auto-Air Colors, perfect for painting plastics, vinyl and most any surface that is difficult for paint to adhere to. Auto-Air Colors dry hard and durable quickly when mixed with 4030. 4030 also works as an inter-coat when applied over Auto-Air Colors. Reduce 10% 4012 High Performance Reducer when applying 4030 as an inter-coat. 4030 DOES NOT PREVENT BLEED-THROUGH of candy2o into other candy2o colors. Use a catalyzed clear to lock candy2o when painting successive candy colors. 4030 appears milky in solution, dries clear. Colors dry satin finish when mixed with 4030. I have given you all that I can for now. I have three other help guides from Createx Auto-Air paints, including their Hard Surface Application Guide but they are too big to attach. PM me if you want them. Once I move in September I hope to have a painting booth again, and will try to test some of these. One thing that bothers me is that the paints are designed for HVLP systems, not air brushes. To use Air Brushes, small tips are only for the Candy colors. For Air Brushes, Large Tips, 30 PSI+ are required for pearls, aluminums, metallics, sparkle, and Sealers. In some cases the additives 4012 and 4030 are both used and up to 50%. I know that Automotive paints will give chrome effects, but...... I don't know that I am up to the task. So, as Monte points out...... foils, or heat press, or perhaps even fingernail foils. https://www.ebay.com/itm/60-Colors-Nail-Art-Stickers-Tips-Wraps-Transfer-Foil-US-SELLER-BUY2GET1FREE-B/253144616357?hash=item3af0984da5:m:mh63NElr9MKgRcW_MeA7h4g Or fingernail powders and polish https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mirror-Chrome-Effect-Nail-Powder-No-Polish-Foil-Nails-Art-Glitter-Silver-Shiny/201657004380?epid=1085536844&hash=item2ef3b1b15c:g:otcAAOSwMgdXxcHS https://www.ebay.com/i/292197466256?chn=ps Or, back to foams, the holographic foils by WTP are awesome. I got their catalog and if only a picture would do them justice. Their foils are awesome and the holographics are stretchable. The catalog has sample pieces of each foam and it is so much better than what you get on a screen. http://www.wtp-inc.com/color-card/ Touch subject, I wish we had a solution to date.

LOL - I doubt I could have said it better myself. Some chromes/paints maintain more of there shine if you use a spray on clear first, but brush on always kills it.

The biggest difference is strength and working time. The Amazing Clear Cast, with a Shore Hardness of 80D, and a longer working time, is my choice. Some don't like to wait that long, so if I am in a hurry, the 72D and faster cure of Water Clear is a good choice.

Relatively cheap is the key to this question, and it is hard for us to determine. Alumilite makes some awesome products, and in bulk, the price is reasonable. Smooth-On also makes some products, that in bulk, should also be reasonable. The issue is, as I see it, that cheap but won't work is expensive. Expensive, but works right every time, is relatively cheap. I know that this is probably not the answer you wanted, but it is the truth as I see it. I use Alumilite for all of my hobbyist work. PS, welcome to the forum. Good to have new people.

I agree with Azouth. Round is traditional and works well, but in the old days, Herter's use to sell the Finland Minnow with a square bill lip and it worked well.

None on any of the baits I have used. So far, never had a AL W and microballoon bait break on anything except a rock I tossed it into.

I usually make my own eyes and hook hangers and insert them in the mold before I pour it. Alumilite is more than strong enough for the embedded eyes and hangers. I have done screw eyes as well, but I set them with some super glue or epoxy so the fish cannot torque them out. I never ever use a full tip to tail harness with AL W. Now, for the lip, red is an interesting option. Red disappears in 10 feet of water (depth), so it would be black any deeper. More shallow than 10 feet and it sure won't hurt, at least most of the time. Storm Hot n Tots had metal lips that were painted, and that did not matter. Bomber Baits made a crawdad with a metal bait, and it did not matter. Seems Bomber also did a metal lipped water dog that worked well also. Still, I think that in some cases, well only the fish know for sure.

I remember microwaves in the middle 80's but even then they were pretty rare and expensive. I never heard of anyone using them for melting plastisol at the time, but maybe they did. Kind of doubt it though. Microwave power can be turned down if necessary, so if it is a matter of too hot, that can be adjusted. Plastisol converts at about 350 deg. F, but it melts at lower temperatures on remelts. You might have discovered how it was done, by using lower temperature remelts. Still, I doubt nylon can handle 320 or even 300 deg. F. I saw a "worm threader" in the store a couple of days ago. I know it is sold to run line through nightcrawlers, but I suspect it would work better on plastic worms. Tie the first hook onto a leader and tie a slip look in the front of it at the correct length for the hook in the center of the worm. Run the "worm threader" into the worm down the center to the back hook location. Feed the leader into the threader and pull the leader with hook inside. At the front of the leader, insert a hook into the loop and snug it at the bend, then insert the threader into the worm again and slide the leader on the first hook out the front of the worm. Still, all of this is unnecessary if you have a way that works for you. Glad you got it figured out for you.

I think to clarify my answer, I need to expand on it. If you paint all day, day after day, like miners do, then yes, protect yourself. By the way, Asbestosis is only caused by Asbestos and it does not exist in Createx. It is Silica that causes Miner's lungs, and it does not exist in Createx either. Taken to extremes, I suppose it can be said that anything is bad for the lungs except pure air. Now, try to get that. Air has dust in it, and in some areas of the world, lots of dust in it. It has pollen in it, smoke, various chemicals, and well, air has always, from the beginning of life on earth, had something in it other then "pure air". The lungs are designed/evolved to reject moderates amounts of contaminants. Asbestos is so bad because it has hooks on the end that prevent the body from rejecting it (some asbestos is not so bad, it is used as a filter in dialysis machines), and of coarse solvents are bad because they are absorbed into the bloodstream. The question is how much is moderate, how much before it is too much? The Safety Data Sheets provide what OSHA considers based on scientific data and historical evidence. They consider it non-toxic. But, I do not in anyway wish to suggest that anyone who uses fans, hoods, booths, masks, etc., are wrong. We each need to decide what level of risk we are OK with. I know of some who won't leave their house because they consider it too dangerous to leave the walls of their own home. I know of some people that skydive. For most of us, our level of acceptable risk is somewhere in between. Now, regarding Createx, where is your level of acceptable risk?

I believe the rigging was done after the worms were poured, by hand. In the 80's I remember worm rigging tools that poked into the center of the worm, the line was then threaded into it.