Anglinarcher

Best I could suggest is to look for a Marine Urethane. I know I have seen something like that at some of the boat dealers, so check out the dealers in the area and see what they have.

Yes she is, but she quit and changed jobs. I think she was embarrassed. One day she gave the best room to my wife and myself for our Anniversary. You know the type, hot tub in room, etc., etc. Her employee was at the desk and my wife came in. Without telling the employee who we were, my wife asked her if they had hourly rates. My daughter screamed out "MOTHER". We were not welcome there anymore. ROFLOL

Well, yes, and no. What I did not say was that my youngest was the manager so she knew who I was. LOL As for the rest, NOT A CHANCE!

Let me bump this back to the top. There must be someone on here that can help.

Ya, I am having runoff issues on the moving water and spring turnover on my still water. Can't see the details. LOL You might ask a motel with an indoor swimming pool. Some of them will allow you to swim test it in at night or during the slow part of the early day. I had a place do that for me in Spokane Washington a few years past, until people saw me doing it and it turned into a circus event. ROFLOL Everyone wanted to know who this idiot was trying to catch a fish in the pool.

Welcome to the site chance, always good to see new people. Now, I don't know if I should welcome you to the insanity or warn you of it, but you can never have enough paint colors! LOL I am a lousy painter, at least in my opinion. I have gotten a lot better, but I am not an artist. So, my opinion will probably differ from others. I probably would not have responded to this one were it not for your post having gone 4 hours without a response. I always suggest getting a sample pack of the basic Createx colors to start. With them you can, in theory, mix almost any color. Having said that, I find myself always getting new colors. Also, a point was made to me that Createx is designed for porous stuff, like Tee Shirts, but it works for me. Auto Air is a Createx paint, but made for automotive and model (non porous) use so it might work better for you. I have had a couple of special colors and it worked well, but I could not tell the difference. http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Semi-Opaque-Mini-Set-4oz/productinfo/163902/ I find Wicked paints to be awesome, but I can't buy them off the shelf in my area. http://www.airbrush.com/Wicked-Colors/products/1527/ But, you are talking some difficult patterns, shad, because they are metallic. We have had lots of discussion on the site about that, and lots of answers. I'm still learning and looking, never totally satisfied. But, I will point out two more options. 1) Taxidermy paints are a great idea. This is one brand of taxidermy paints that will get you started. https://www.mckenziesp.com/Wildlife-Colors-C2020.aspx 2) For airbrush painting, then the best, and not great, but best I can do is the following when I want a silver. http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Aluminum-Base-Coat-Fine-4oz/productinfo/162645/ The picture sucks, but I get the best airbrush results from this. When I clear coat it is stays almost as bright. I use a Talon airbrush and I use my medium needle for it. I have read that people have obtained great results from some of the pearls and metallics but when I have tried it they grey out when I add a clear coat. But, I have not used every clear coat nor have I used every paint. I just don't have the time or money. So, for a shad pattern, I get the Aluminum for the silver. I use the Createx for the white bottom, the black side spot and back, and I use a little blue/white mix for highlights and add a little white/yellow/green mix for the Chartreuse highlights. Depending on how detailed you want to get, you can get specialized paints from the groups I have given you to match almost any color. Now, because you are new, I want to help you find our search feature. Hover your mouse over ACTIVITY at the top right of this screen. When the drop down menu shows up, go to search and click on it. Enter your keywords and hang on, years of great information will be at your fingertips. Mostly, have fun. We have great talent on this site, but we range from newbies to hobbyist to professionals. View the ideas given in that filter and take small steps until you get comfortable with your talent.

I know that soldering a hook to ice jigs/blades was done. I use to buy some Mora Swedish Ice jigs for ice fishing in the 80's but the hook was so soft that they did not hold up. I agree on the epoxy problems. Just went to ACE Hardware and their wall was covered with 60 second epoxy (seriously?), 2 min, 5 min. Had to go two two different stores to find the Devcon 2 Ton which is still not as slow as the stuff from the 80s and 90s. Sure, I agree, we all want fast, but there is a good use for the slower stuff as well. Yep, had not thought of that.

Never tried it, might work, but, maybe. The subject line says Silicone molds. Most silicone molds have a temperature limit about 395 deg. F +/-. Plastic converts at 350 degrees F. It can be injected down to around 300 degrees F, so...... If you are heating the mold post pour/injection, keep the temperature below 350 and use a good thermometer to verify the oven is not getting hotter. Also, silicone is not a good heat conductor so it might take some time to get it to the right temperature. Lots and lots of mights, coulds, and maybes in my response. I hope someone else can chime in on this one.

High Brick, good to have new people online. Now, the short answer is that at the top of this forum there is a list of of the hard bait makers that we know of. It is called the crankbait blank suppliers, but they have all types of hard bait unpainted blanks. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/34165-crankbait-blank-suppliers/ I checked a couple of the ones that I thought might have it and came up short, so, you can check the entire list for now, or you can make your own. The options I know of would be out of wood, so I will give a suggested link for some of the materials that might work. http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Basswood-Bodies/Wood-Surface-Lures.html http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Propellers/Pointed-Propellers.html http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Screw-Eyes/Stainless-Screw-Eyes.html I am pretty sure the Boy Howdy is plastic, but the original versions similar to it were wood and they worked very well. Now that the ice is broken, perhaps some others can chime in and fill in the gaps I left.

I tried this with a two part epoxy I really liked in the 90's and it worked great, until It got cold. Then the stuff just got brittle and crumbled. I never tried JB-Weld and I have never used PC7, but ......... if they hold up to the temperatures, this might be an excellent idea. I cannot remember the epoxy I used now but I recall it coming in a white box with yellow and red writing on it. I have not seen it in years. I used it to make some ice fishing jigs. They were one fish wonders. LOL Always came up with the hook and fish but not the ice blade.

Yes, I believe you are correct. I used the wrong term.

Dave, I see that the two of us are just never going to agree. Here is the problem, I can and do grind salt for soft plastics. I don't do it often, and I don't do it a lot, but I do and I don't get clumping. I suppose that if the two, of if you include Frank, the three of us, got together in the same room and did it together we would see how our ways differ. I don't think it means one or two of us are doing it wrong, just different. Just because it does not work for you does not mean it doesn't work for me, or others. But, because you and I have some specific difference does not mean I have an agenda. I assume you don't have an agenda either, do you? I don't know how trying to help out has offended you, but for what is is worth, it was never my intention to do so.

I talked to Larry several years ago about that and it was a friend that did it for him. If I recall, it was a quick release hook he worked on. I think he showed the hook on one of his HUNT FOR BIG FISH shows. The Laser welding concept would work, but it is not an inexpensive way. It focuses the heat in such a small area that the whole hook does not get hot. So, I guess that Larry proved it could be done. I have contracted some Laser welding to be done in years past for specialized construction work and I sure could not afford it for myself. LOL

I won't say welding is not possible, but the higher heat of welding normally removes the temper from the hook. This will leave the hook so soft that it is not hardly a hook anymore. On the other hand, I once, as a youngster, heated hooks to bend them into a jig hook, then dunked them in oil, to retemper them. Soooooo, in theory, you could weld the hook and then retemper them. Again, lots and lots of theory.

http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Painting-Accessories/Eye-Dotter.html

http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Clevises_7/ http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Clevises/Magnum-Clevises.html Can you believe they have some for as large as .080" now? I have made my share of Muskie spinners and they make some big clevis sizes for them now.

Welcome to the forum, good to have new people. I don't know one of my spinnerbaits in the fishing box from another so I can't check them. But.... you can get a micrometer and check the wire thickness. It may be titanium instead of stainless steel or maybe a hard stainless steel instead of a soft one. It can be much more difficult to determine the material so start with the right diameter then go from there. Testing different materials can get tiresome, but I will provide a link to help find sources. https://www.mcmaster.com/#metal-wire/=18vc5z4 As for the hook size and mold, that can always be harder. Hook sizes are easy to adjust, but if the mold is a custom mold, a proprietary mold, then things get a lot harder. You might find that only a custom mold will work. Now that I have broken the ice, I am sure others will jump in to fix my mistakes. PS, to help you on this site, hover your mouse over ACTIVITY and when the drop down menu shows then go down to search. Click on search and enter your search items. We have years of information and a lot of the time we have answered the question before. But, I don't think so this time. LOL

But, your idea of slow is different then my idea of slow. I have not used 50 pounds in my life, not even close. When you mix only two or three cups at a time, like I do, I can prevent clumps. But, I am glad to hear how they add anti clumping agents. that makes a lot of sense to me.

I do know that it can destroy blenders. My very ancient coffee grinder has a single spinning double winged blade that crushes, not cuts, the salt (or spices or coffee). I do a little at a time so it does not pack or get hot and melt into clumps, but...... a cheap blender I got at a thrift store got toasted when I did too much too fast. To answer the why not to, well, two things. 1) Powder salt can leave lots of white that can cloud baits. Salt flakes or small crystals won't cloud nearly as much, or so I am told. 2) Grinding salt can destroy blenders. Notice that you can buy fine salt sold as worm salt. Ever wonder how it got to be "fine"? Salt crystals grow at different rates, and are normally larger than what we buy, so, it all gets ground somewhere? Just saying.......

Welcome to the site riverrat, new people are always welcome. It has been a couple of days now and apparently we are coming up dry on this one. Can you post a picture of it? Also, you might repost this in the Wire Baits Forum, they tend to work on jigs more over there. I am a little surprised that any rubber would be used for hot work but some high temperature Silicones might work. We might be able to come up with a work around if we knew what it looked like.

This would have made my stuff so oooooo oooooo much easier.

Mine is custom from the ground up, a jointed swim, so...........

If only there was a simply way to scan the shape of our favorite lure so we could get some special templet work done.

Some people use Devcon 2 Ton or Etex or some other slow cure epoxy. I have a lure turner so I can do that and it works well. I use AlumiUV, with a fingernail UV cure station I got about 10 years ago on Ebay for about $20. It is my favorite. You can use Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast, easily obtained from your local Hobby Lobby, but it also requires a lure turner. Moisture cures are often used, and I understand that if dipped and hung, the lures come out well. KBS is a name I hear often. O have used Dick Nites the same way, and the smell is tolerable.

The only other way I know of is to use a small metal tube to poke a hole through it, feed the strands through the tube, then pull the tube leaving the strands. Slow, but it worked for some hobby work I did several years ago.