Anglinarcher

Slower steady approach. I apply a little pressure at the end if I am getting bubbles that I want to collapse. No need to keep it there for a long time, especially so long the sprue starts to harden.

Yes, it is excellent, but not for a final clear coat. When I mask something off, I shoot a createx clear over the spot to seal the mask, then when I peal the mask I get a great clean line. It is water resistant, but not water proof. Must be clear coated to protect.

I actually prefer a hook in the last section. Lots of fish are attracted to a bait, but it takes more to trigger the strike. The attracted tend to hit the tail so one in the back section works well. In Europe I have seen custom baits with hook hangers that went back that far for the same reason. I agree, lots of lures made to catch fisherman, not fish. LOL I have spent lots of time changing to short shank hooks to stop that tangle so I understand.

I especially like the the bad penny. Would be excellent in my area.

Probably, but a metal rod, plastic rod, or a glass rod would be better. Almost all, but not all. You would probably be safe assuming it. Pretty tough to tell on a picture unless you have something in the picture to give scale. Still, making your own is always the best way to be exact. Good luck on your venture.

Highwayman, I'll hold you to that. LOL I first suggest that lots of places will work, it is a matter of balance that matters most. I prefer to place the hooks before painting, or at least before painting the final version. When I place the hooks, I want the bait to fall almost horizontal, or a little nose first. I also prefer the first segment to be a little longer, but I am still convinced your proportions will work. To start the discussion, I suggest two hooks, one just before the first joint, on in the middle of the last joint. Good luck, and I love the work.

If you are really good at math, understand Archimedes dunk test, understand center of gravity and center of ......... Better do the trial and error method from above.

Yes, I have had and used Alumidust from when it first came out. If you use a silicone mold, you can paint the inside of the mold with the dust, then pour your mold, and it is permanent and looks great. I have not tried this on other molds. If you add it to the soft plastic when you mix is it looks great, and is permanent. If you brush it on to a previously molded soft plastic, it looks good, but is not glossy and can be rubbed off with work. If you brush it on and dip the bait in clear hot plastisol it become permanent and glossy. You can also brush it on, then take a hot torch and kiss it with the flame until it glosses and then it is glossy and permanent. You can go through the videos on the Alumilite lure making site Makelure.com to see some examples of it if you want. https://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto

Remember the water boils at 212 degrees F, and the plastic is not soft until near 300 degrees, so all you are able to do is loosen the plastic links a little. When I have had success, it was after leaving the worms in for about 5 minutes. More caused other problems. I would test a few and see if it works, but it is not a sure fix for sure.

Welcome to the site Calchaz4. It is always good to have new people. My experience with the powder spray gun is limited so I will defer to others on this, but a picture of the spray booth/area and the lure would help. Next, just to help out. Hover your mouse over Activity at the top right of this screen. ON the drop down menu go down to search. Click on it and add your search question. Years of great information is available on the site.

Bent worms, sometimes the hot water will work. Boiling water is what I have used, but it does not always work. Yes, the hot water will remove the oils. I just leave the oils myself, but I don't sell them.

When I had my man cave I did not use a spray booth. You might have seen airbrush guy do T Shirts and Motor Cycle tanks and they don't use one. The overspray from water based paints is not so bad and I could just dust the room and vacuum once in a while. Wife was upset, but it was MY man cave. Now that we have sold the house and moved, that is not an option, so I run outside on a calm day. Now, if you are using solvent based paints, a booth is far more important.

I knew I had seen that logo, but I have not shopped Academy Sports since Louisiana. I think you nailed it.

They make several different sizes of corkies. I make up several sizes and for some reason the green/gold metallic is one of the best.

Can you post a picture of the lure and the mold. Sounds weird, so anything to give the guys on the site a clue will help. PS, my experience with mold getting too hot means I get bubbles, but not nibbles.

Hi Jmill, I see you are new so I wanted to say hi? I shot into a box when I tested a friends to see how it worked. Then we dumped the remains into a bottle for reuse. Pretty primitive, but neither of us are big time users either. Some did get around the box, but we never gave it much thought.

Hey Mad, don't want you to be mad, so I will bump you to the top. LOL I suspect that you don't have answers because none of us have ever monitored it. I tested a Harbor Freight powder paint spray gun and I was impressed, so I bet TJ's is better I found I could control the amount of paint so much better, so I kind of thought it would last forever, but I know it would not. I did set up a box to spray into and collected some of the overspray and reused it as well. Here are my thoughts. I bet a standard 2 oz bottle would do a couple hundred 3/8 oz spinnerbaits. But, I cannot be sure. Like I said, at least I can bump you back to the top.

My favorite way is to tie the two hooks; I snell the back hook, run the line through the front and do a steelhead snell so it will give me a specific distance between hooks. I like to use steelhead corkies for the body to give it flotation. I lead with 2 or 3 red beads to look like gills, then put on a quick change clevis for the blade. I change blades often. I use these normally for Walleye off of bottom bouncers. I can keep them just off bottom with the corkies for the body, but not float too far. I normally don't fish them for trout or Bass or perch or catfish, but I sure catch my fair share with them when fishing for Walleye.

I do agree. I think it is.

I don't enter, at least I have not entered, so I don't have a specific history. But.....I do believe that once the judging is complete they let us know in the "infor and updates" part of the forum.

This might be better. It is hard to explain, so if it does not make sense, ask. I will try.

I have attached a PDF photo/sketch that might help. Spinner explanation.pdf

Ya. looks like that for sure. I will try to sketch something.

LOL, I did not know that someone else actually did that. They sure look better than mine. I use them for sight fishing some big Brown Trout. Sometimes they will follow a lure to the boat and turn away, so if I have a "second color" I can cast it to the other side and sometimes get them to take. In reality, it is almost as fast to grab my 2nd rod.................... but. I sure never expected this thread to take a turn like this. ROFLOL

But....but.............but....................it just got started! I look forward to seeing the results.