Anglinarcher

It's OK Mark, we all have bad days and sometimes differences of opinion. ROFLOL And yes, to answer others questions, I do use the stuff, but have said before, I am a dedicated hobbyist, not a production guy.

I defer to Baitjunkys on this one for sure.

Like Aulrich, I have had great luck on Lake Trout, Trout in general, Steelhead, and Burbot. I have found that Walleye prefer it to be almost out of charge before they would take it. As for LMB, I have tried and tried and tried it and I have caught only a very few bass with it. I am sure it works for some, but not for me. I do better with a Black or Dark Red, which I suspect only provides them a silhouette at night when framed against the surface. But, I have also learned to never say never and to never judge your lakes or methods.

Thanks Monte, I see the material is the same stuff I use. It is a sand blast medium, but is virgin beads.

A dumb question if I may? I have always done this, as a hobbyist, with the brush flicking. Do you have a video of how you "load the brush and then rapidly hit the trigger"?

That is going to be the hardest part about duplicating the lure with resin. I can do it, but I cannot test it in salt water. Our Great Salt Lake is 7 times saltier than the ocean. Rumor has it you can walk on top of it (ROFLOL), so nothing floats tail down. I have my ways of duplicating the weight distribution and I am pretty sure I can get it right, but it would be easier if I could run on down to the coast and test it. If I can get Alumifoam to work (will know once I verify the lure density), then no toothy critter has yet to destroy one. Larry Dahlberg use to use them on his TV show and Tiger Fish, Golden Dorado, Wolf Fish, all failed to destroy them. Some did leave teeth in them though. HEHE

Monte, do you have a source for glass beads that are not blasting medium? I found a source for the virgin material, unused so it was not fractured or shattered, but did not find anything else that small.

Yes, for most of us. Salt or microballoons stiffens the plastic. When you add something non-plastisol you need to add some softener and a little heat stabilizer. But, "little" is the operative word and how much, especially with softener, is a personal thing.

Yes, a lot like it, but I THINK the spybait is heavier so it sinks more. I'm going to tackle the lure for Tarponchaser so I will match existing weight. It should be a simple lure to make but getting the right resin for Tarpon will mean I need to stay with the stronger versions.

And of course salt is added to make baits sink faster (heavier). Many people think the salt is added for flavor, and it is to some extent, but weight is the biggest reason.

I would suggest you contact the company and discuss this with them. I have never heard of this material being used, but I have heard some years ago of people trying the following from Smooth-on. https://www.smooth-on.com/products/feather-lite/ You should do a search on TU and see what you can find. Hover your mouse over ACTIVITY at the top right of this screen. On the drop down menu, click on search at the bottom. Once you enter Smooth-On or smooth-cast 305 you should be able to get results. Check out feather lite as well. You can also check out Makelure.com which is a sub-site of Alumilite. Alumilite and Smooth-on have similar materials. Obviously Makelure.com is more focused on lure making and I know that their Alumilite White is often used, but it is heavier then water. Often used is a shell of the White and their 610 foam as a core, or Alumifoam which is the density of Cedar. You might look into what Smooth-On has as well. https://www.makelure.com/ I will give you a link to their how to videos. https://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx I make swimbaits using resin, so it is very realistic. The key is getting the right densities, the right balance, just like making lure with timber. Resin is far more consistent, but it is a learning curve like working with any new material. https://www.makelure.com/store/pg/177-specific-gravity-chart.aspx

The hot water trick is the only way I know of. I tried a heat gun and melted the plastic. LOL

Tarponchaser305 is looking to have a discontinued lure re-made. I believe he is looking for the Rapala Twitchin Rap. If so, they are 3 1/8" long but they came in two different weights (3/8 and 7/16). IF I am right, then the version I found doing a search are the following: Note that this is not the X-Rap version but the original Balsa version. I did find the following, and it is not available from Basspro/Cabela's. https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/rapala-twitchin-rap-balsa-wood-lure-model-twr08

Oil based solvent! If they were suspended in water you would have nightmares when you heated over 212 degrees F. I got some SS ball bearings about the size of BBs. That works for every color, except........

Hi Web, good to see a new person joining in. You have a good point, and I think that some have mentioned that they do that. Personally I don't do it that way because I don't like how the glow powder clouds the clear. If all I wanted was a white lure, an off white, then it would work well. But, like the lures that drdmh made up, I want some pattern, some contrast. You could of course do that and then paint over the clear, then clear again. I just don't want to take so much time, with two cure times.

Bob is correct. No fix and acetone might actually make it even worse.

I went to Harbor Freight and found some big old monster Forceps. They work great. I also found some very small vise grip type plyiers as well. Now, the paint or epoxy in the joint is a different problem. I have my lure turner so it always has the lure level, so I just don't put the epoxy in the joint and it stays out. Others use a rubber band wrapped around the joint, and that also seems to work well.

Do you mean they are scratched or do you mean they are yellowed or generally cloudy? This works on scratches, but If it is couldy because it is a circuit board material, nothing can be done, that is the nature of the material. If it is yellow, it is because of the age of the plastic. I have some Lexan lips from Netcraft that are probably 9 years old and they yellowed in the packae. It appears to be in the plastic and a solvent did not work. No big deal, I only make for myself, but ....... good thing I did not sell them. You might take a picture and post it of the lips.

Nice idea.

Yes

Glad you have it figured out. Also want to welcome you to the site. In case you did not figure it out, our search feature is hard to find. Hover your mouse over Activity at the top right of this screen. When the drop down menu comes down, go down to search and click on it. Enter your search words and hang on, we have tons of past responses. LOL

I suspect you can. I had some that was over 5 years old, hard packed, a different brand, and I mixed it well and use it still. I got it to test it and moved a couple of times and ...... well, it did get tested. LOL I sure would not toss it out without testing it. I had no need for hardener once I mixed it back up.

Not really, but I do know of the following that are similar in design, but not the same for sure. http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/propeller-spinner-blades/ Because these have been on the market forever, I suspect that if the Kramer Brothers "Revolution Blades" are patent pending, that the patent will be hard to actually get. Lots of times a Patent Pending claim is put on items so they can sell it without serious competition, but the actual patent never comes out. Not saying that this is the case here, just saying that it is possible. Side note, the above are much smaller from what I can tell.

Welcome Lizzz, glad to have new people to the site. I could go on for hours with funny stories, but after awhile, you start to realize there is only so much laughing at yourself before it starts to hurt. LOL

Nice looking bait.