Anglinarcher

We don't normally get that worked up. ROFLOL Most Plastisol brands will work, but I tend to go with the Alumisol medium and buy some softener and hardener. With those three options, I can do pretty much all I need. But, Baitjunky's has some good stuff, as does M-F Manufacturing has a Saltwater version that is pretty hard as well. I remember someone has an "elastic and a bounce" version that they say is pretty durable. I feel I can make them all work, but some are easier for ME then others. If you are a production guy, and I am just a hobbyist, then it would be more important. Never hurts to try.

I believe it is good, but we have not heard back from some of the people testing it yet. I was going to get a sample, but I have so much right now that I won't be trying anything else for some time.

Most water based clear coats are not water proof, only water resistant. That might be a problem.

Yes, I remember that the junebug also worked well, but never tried the "Okeechobee Special".

Yep, the only place I have found it. The internet has killed the local Airbrush paint places in Salt Lake City. Hobby Lobby has the basics, but the options I had even in little ole Spokane Washington just don't exist.

Hi tab, good to have a new person on site. Without knowing how thick your Createx paint is, we cannot know if 1 day to dry is enough. Many of use use a heat gun or hair dryer to dry and cure the Createx paint. Heating it causes it to cross-link so it is stronger, but it is NOT necessary. Still, in your case, heating with a hair dryer between layers should fix any drying issues. Next question is how are you putting the Etex on the lure? Most of us use a soft bristle brush, but recently we have a member using latex gloves and his finger. Either way, the lure must be totally coated, thin, but coated. Any missed spots will not self level enough to get it. Also, you need to make sure you get the clear coat on as soon as possible, before it starts to set. Some like to leave it for 3 or 4 minutes to let it firm up a little, but I find that if I mix slow to keep the bubbles down, I can't wait that long. If you are getting areas of pull back, or what we call fish eyes, then it could be you are touching your lure with your fingers and getting oil on it after you paint it. Oil will cause the fish eyes to form, so keep fingers, oil, and dirt off the lure. If I have concerns, I use a damp rag with alcohol to clean the lure before clear coating. If the damp rag removes paint, the paint probably was not dry enough. Now, as for 17 rpm. that might be a little fast. I looked at mine and I do about 4-5 rpm. But, the problem is that it is a factor of how far your turner has the lures form the center of rotation. For example, if the distance is 5 inches, you velocity and related centripetal force is one thing, but if it is 10 inches, it is much much greater, 4 times greater. For a rod turner where the rods are thin, 17 is about right, but for lures held out at 10 inches, those lures are flying around, and this could cause the coat to be moved by centripetal/centrifugal forces. I don't know if a picture would show the coating well enough, but it if does, it would help to see it. My best suggestion to start is to hover your mouse over ACTIVITY at the top right of this screen. When the drop down menu shows up click on search. Enter Devcon, Epoxy, Etex into the search and then just go over the years of work on this. I don't use bar coatings like Etex, or epoxy clears, much anymore, but I still have my stuff. It is a good material, but like most things, it takes a little practice to get the hang of it.

In theory yes. Some claim that the beads scratch and damage their injector, and the smaller beads would be less abrasive. I found that 70-100 in a new, not recycled where many of the beads have been fractured, worked great for me. I only bought 10 pounds and used it up pretty quickly and I had no issues, but....... In theory......................... yes.

Well, that one is a tough one to answer. I have done some fishing in Florida, and like every other place, the fish like to change their mind a lot. For Sweet (fresh), Pumpkin, motor oil, greens, lets say natural earth tones seemed to be best for me. For Salt, same ones, but the bright colors, like Chartreuse, Oranges, etc., also worked well. White was always productive for me as well.

I assume you mean the Spike-It CoLure paints for soft plastics? That material is designed to adhere to Plastisol, but ........... I suspect it would. I would think that as long as the timber baits were well sealed, and the resin baits clean, it probably would be fine, especially with the epoxy clear coat. Notice that I am not sure, I have never tried it, and it seems like a very expensive paint to use, but if you already have it I would try it.

You might get a better response if you post this under the wire baits forum, but I will take a stab at it because many of us use the tape for our hard baits as well. If your vertical jigs are flat sided, it is normally pretty easy. Cut your tape, place it upside down on a foam pad or sponge, then press the lure on. Use the pad of your thumbs to work the tape, starting from the center and working out. Most lure reflective tapes have a fairly slow curing adhesive so you can pull up edges and replace it again. The reflective tape I have used normally takes 72 hours to fully cure, once that has happened, it is normally waterproof. I clear coat it so that does not matter so much. If your lures, or jigs have curves to them, then flat tape will simply not go on flat, you must stretch the tape, warp it, do something to make it fit. Warming the tape with a hairdryer as you work it out from the center sometimes helps. Sometimes using a burnishing tool, like a bone or plastic rod can help. I have a plastic orange peeler with a perfect shape on one end that I use. Everyone has their own way. To be honest, I really don't like to use "tape" all that much anymore, but sometimes that is the best and only way. I even got some Duck brand duck/duct tape that was holographic to try, but it is metallic and stretch/warping just won't work. I place cuts in it so it can overlap, then I later use a sharp knife to trim the extra. I still use my orange peeler, working from the center out. I also use art deco foils and heat transfer foils (applied with 3M spray adhesive). I have some holoform and some chrome coming from WTP inc. I can't wait to experiment with it. Good luck with your endeavor.

In some ways, I am the perfect one to answer your questions. LOL It seems like my stuff has been in storage for half of my life since I took up making plastics in the 80's. But, I am a hobbyist, so there will be others that can help more. First, Plastisol and and the colorants will separate over time, and even hardpack. I have a bottle of White and a bottle of Plastisol I have had now for about 5 years that I have not used and both are separated out. I keep them to experiment with, but I have little hope that either will be usable. Second, it is a great idea to shrink wrap your equipment. If you live in an area of high humidity, it is critical that you dehydrate and keep all metal components dry. The last thing you need is to open it up in 5 years and have it rusted. I prefer to use Silicone based lubricants. They tend to not collect dust and contaminantes as bad, but, again, this is tough. If I was doing this in Louisiana, it would have been almost impossible and after just a year there I had several metal items rusted.

Like sand blasting, but with backing soda, well something like backing soda. You can do a YouTube or Google search on it. Harbor Freight has a sandblaster that is like an airbrush that you can get the soda medium for, but I have not used it.

Nothing wrong with hand shooting, but clearly you pour more then a few dozen a year. LOL I never get clumping because I mix slowly and never heat more than a cup or two of plastic. I am not as efficient as you, but it works for me. Also, because I don't use recycled beads, I don't seem to have the "equipment" problem, but if I did, that would be a deal breaker for sure. Salt is so much softer, and it does dissolve in water.

Buy the way, I suspect the differences between myself and Dave is production. He is a production guy, I have not used or ever for that matter. I am a hobbyist, I don't have the courage to go big, or go broke. LOL Because I do small batches, what I have said, and what you will find in the searches, will differ with each of us.

Contact Lurepartsonline.com and see if the ones they sell are salted. http://www.lurepartsonline.com/s.nl/sc.17/category./.f?search=tube I suspect that they have them.

You know, this will get me in trouble here, but I just don't find I have ever needed it exact. For the few I do before it starts to harden, I can just do it by eye. But, did I ever say I get in trouble on this site once in a while. LOL

https://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/69/ The method starts at about 6 minutes and 30 seconds. It works pretty well, I do it fairly often. Normally posting pictures is not appropriate, but maybe this time being it shows what can be done. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/17327-red-sided-shiner-1jpg/ On the last one that I loaded from my files, the two bass and the two trout parr are also done with the decals. As you can see, the detail possible is limited by the quality of the picture you can get. Still, back to the original question, how do the big boys do it? Personally, I don't have a clue.

No problem, that is what we are here for. I just wanted you to have access to the years of hundreds of responses on so much information. Your question is one we have discussed, in fact just recently, but to be honest, everytime we discuss an old topic, a new answer can come out. That is how we grow, learn, and develop new ways.

Actually, this depends on the epoxy. I mix by volume and that is 1:1 either way.

Welcome to the site, I see you are new. It is great to have new people on the site. Hover your mouse over ACTIVITY at the top right of the screen. When the drop down screen comes up, go to search at the bottom and click on it. Enter your search words and you will probably find something on that subject, well, almost any subject about lure building. LOL But, I seldom remove the old finish, I sand down any serious problems andT paint over it. Others sand all of the paint off, and some have talked about using solvents to remove it, but then you need to avoid melting plastics, or removing the sealer on wood. Pretty much, my way is THE CORRECT WAY TO DO IT, for me. ROFLOL

Just not sure if this is the Zink or the new stuff. https://www.ispikeit.com/product/635/super-glow-green-175 This is there super glow, and it is $32.50/4 oz.

Three options I know of. Post to YouTube and give us a link. Save on Microsoft cloud, share it, give us a link. Save on google cloud (Google My Drive), share it, give us a link.

LOL, did not mean to confuse anyone for sure. I was going to make comments but I had to quick leave my computer and forgot about it.

Hi fish, I see that you are pretty new and I don't know if we told you how to use the search feature. It is not straightforward. Hover over ACTIVITY at the top right of the screen. When the drop down menu comes up, go down to search and click on it. Type Salt into the feature, then hang on for all you get. LOL Is this for "taste", "scent", or "weight". It all makes a difference. Actually scent and taste, if there is a scent, are the same. You don't need to add nearly as much. Adding for weight requires up to 25% by volume, depending on a lot of different factors. Adding salt clouds the plastic and weakens it and stiffens it. So, Use only the amount you need. If you add salt, especially for weight, then you will need to add softener to the mix. The amount will depend on the amount of salt. The salt you use should be as fine as you can get, or the special flake salt. I have an old, very very old, small coffee and spice grinder that I use to grind my salt. I want it like powder. The flake is designed to use as is, but I have never used it. If you are doing it for weight, consider using glass beads used for sandblasting, not recycled but new. It does not cloud the baits or weaken it nearly as much. If you use the salt for weight, the amount is a crapshoot. Many people have asked the question on how much to add to get their bait sink like a Sinko, and the results depend on the Plastisol you use, the volume of your bait, the ........ like I said, capshoot. You will need to experiment. If you are adding for taste, then I like about 5%, maybe 10%. I don't actually measure that out that much. If you wash off a freshly poured bait and then chew on it, and can taste salt, it is probably enough. I hope this helps, but do the search, and then by then I bet others will jump in here.

Bill, welcome to the forum, I see you are new and we like to see new people. Now, as for your process, the cost of doing that would be off the charts. You can mold with Bismuth and get 95% the weight of lead. It is a little brittle and very expensive, but much less then ........... I think we got derailed on this thread.