Anglinarcher

OK, so what colors are you using to start with? Are you saying that if you poured a clear worm that it would turn green? I am a little confused. First, I see you are new, so it is good to have you on the site. We need, welcome, and like new people. Fist things first. Hover your mouse over ACTIVITY at the top right of the screen. When the drop down screen comes up, go to search at the bottom and type in Honey. See what you get. There are years of responses and thousand of post that can help. Additionally, at the top of this forum is a recipe thread that might also have it. Last, if you can provide a photo of the color you want it might help. Funny thing is that for me, Honey is just a dark amber, and that I can probably help with, but do you want dark amber, light amber, brown amber, etc. I guess you might say that one man's honey is another man's yellow. Lots and lots of guys on the site can offer suggestions if they see that color to match. These guys shock me all the time on what they can do. We just need a little more info.

I dug out some baits I hand poured back in the early 80's, and they have been stored in hot conditions. They were poured form whatever Netcraft use to sell in those days. They are odor free, oil free, not too dry. I cannot believe that the plastisol sold 35 years ago is better then what we have today.

I'm sorry Chuck, but I was the original poster, and the one that did the research. What you are seeing is bigger bubbles due the the fact I poured the foam on top of hot Alumilite White, and the fact I did not mix it in a separate container first so I did not get excellent mixing. They say you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it drink. Well, I lead, but the horse just won't drink. LOL

You might need to use a softer hook, but it sound worth trying.

OK, been working on this a little recently. One of the big issues we all have is to cut the slot in the correct angle, location, depth, etc. I recently made a one piece silicone mold of "correct lure", The mold was of the back of the lure, embedded into the silicone just deep enough to cover the bottom third of the lip (on the mold I did). I can take new lures, push it into the mold. The mold now provided a slot to guide my small back saw to cut the slot. Now, as for anchoring the circuit board lip, I have a small drill press and I use it to punch two or three small holes into it. It makes for better anchoring. I use long cure epoxy, butter the lip with epoxy, filling the holes, then slide the lip in place. Wipe the excess epoxy from the lip and lure. Hope this helps some. PS, I use Alumilite HS3. It is soft enough that gums the saw blade before it cuts so it actually does not damage easy. It is flexible enough that I can make these partial molds of any shape.

Welcome to the site Esox, good to have new people on it. Try reposting this on the Wire Bait forum for more responses. Most of us venture to all the sites, but that will give it the best exposure.

Now that you mention it, that is about when I started to stop waterfowl hunting. I tried Bismuth when it came out and it was closer to lead, and my kill rate went back up, wounded ducks back down, but the cost was too much for a recently separated Army Vet to afford. I still have an award winning "Duck Soup" recipe given me by a retired super chief that had the top rated restaurant in in Hong Kong back in the day. It has not been dusted off and used in many years now.

So, I suggest that if you are planning on using this as a basecoat, note that the overcoat will block the glow. When I do this, I normally use it for highlight colors. I get a clear medium from Createx and mix the powder. It is not the clear coat, but an actual medium. http://www.airbrush.com/Mediums/products/1237/ I warn you, this is not what I consider "beginners art" if you are going to use an airbrush. It takes some skill, several layers in some cases, and cleaning your airbrush often is just part of it.

This is what Kosmic says: Can I mix with a colored medium? I get this question asked a lot. On paper it seems like a good idea but in practice for most applications it’s not a good idea. Here’s the problem: Glow in the dark paints work by storing light energy and emitting it back out at a different wave length. For this to work the glow in the dark powder must be able to be charged by the light and able to emit it back. A colored medium will coat the glow in the dark powder and severely restrict its ability to charge and emit. So in a nutshell it will work because there will be some glow in the dark crystals that get charged and will be able to emit. But the majority will just go to waste. However, the glow will not be very bright and it will fade very quickly. So what’s the best medium for paint? The best medium for paint is a clear gloss acrylic gel. I use gel from Golden Paints but Liquitex or other brands should work well. Just like with a colored medium a matte medium is also not recommended due to the frosted finish that will also limit the glow in the dark paint’s ability to charge and emit.

First, Etex, and epoxies in general, do not dry, they cure. It is a chemical reaction that takes place and the right amount of chemicals need to be present to make this happen. If you have spots after 12 hours that are not tack free, then either you did not mix equal parts of both the resin and hardener, or you did not properly mix them. They must be well mixed, but done slowly enough that you mix as little air in as possible. When that happens to me, and yes, it happens to all of us at least once, I recoat with a properly measured and properly mixed coat. It seems to cure the undercoat while giving me the proper cure on top.

First, I forgot to answer the heat stabilizer question. You add it when you re-melt plastic, especially if you are doing a clear pour, with no color or a light color. Plastisol can yellow (burn) if overheated, or heated too often, so the stabilizer helps to stop that. I almost never use it, but I pour some grubs that I want clear, colorless, except for a LOT of silver glitter I add. I just can't seem to re-melt the plastic more than once or twice without it yellowing if I don't add the stabilizer. OK, pictures would still be useful. It may be bubbles, and that will take one solution. It may be sunken spots, and that will take another solution. It might be a design issue with the specific molds, but we need to know more about which specific ones they are. It might be something I am not thinking about right now. The plastisol is probably not the problem. The fact you have it in both a purchased mold and one you made suggest a problem in how you are doing it, but again, we can probably help. We have a lot of great minds on this site, of which Baitjunkys is one, but every bit of detail you can give us helps us figure it out.

This is true. That is why "true" scientist have open discussions, pier review, and repeatable independent testing to confirm results. Do you remember cold fusion? When you get just one study, or studies sponsored by a specific group, question them, question them extensively. Like I said, question extensively. I find that Google is a great source for a lot of information, but it is also severely biased. Many years ago Japan released a statement that said 60% of the open information on the internet is wrong. I hope/suspect that this is not correct, but they made a valid point. The USSR, and a report that we don't even know actually exist, is one that demands "open discussions, pier review, and repeatable independent testing to confirm results". Partly true. All metals, especially heavy metals, can cause toxicity. Gold, Platinum, and Tungsten, are actually relativity chemically inactive. Silver is worse, but we don't even consider that one. There is an old saying that says too much of even a good thing is bad. After all, too much water will kill you, and if you inhaled pure oxygen for long, you would be as dead as not getting it at all. So Balance, Balance. As for lead, it is a funny thing. In chemistry we do a qualitivity analysis to analyse liquid samples. In High School Chemistry classes they do it as well, and the very first thing they test for is lead, because it precipitates out so fast that if they did not all of the other testing would overshadow it. Lead is only a problem if it is dissolved with an acid, like in stomachs. Did you know that if you live in an older city, like New York, Atlanta, Toronto, San Diego, etc., that you probably have miles of lead water pipes, just like Flint Michigan did? Flint only had a problem because their new water source was acidic. Well, let me take that back, lead poisoning might explain some the behavior in the old big cities. ROFLOL I have had my doubts, as a science based individual, an Engineer and Project Manager for over 25 years, about a lot of the environmental claims made. The environment is a lot cleaner then it was when I was a kid 50+ years ago. I am not saying we cannot do more, because we can and should, but BALANCE, BALANCE. As for banning lead, far more ducks and geese have died from wounds due to poor performing steel shot then have ever died from lead. A strong claim can be made that the ban was a slippery slope to stop hunting, but it took on a life of its own. I wonder how many birds actually eat lead sinkers, and if they eat jigs, I suspect the hooks in the jigs do far more damage. OUCH! We have a lot of very smart, and a lot of very opinionated, people on this site, from all places in the world. Yes, many of them are smart and opinionated. HEHE. What I am concerned about is people getting upset with each other. This is first, and foremost, a lure making forum. Discussing politics, religion, or subjects that seem to take on elements of both (like lead poisoning, global warming, etc.) should probably be avoided. The last thing I want to see is people I consider internet friends, and people I rely on for information and advice, quarreling with each other. Please, let this be the last controversial post. I will take the heat, and you can PM me with all the hate mail you want, but I want my friends to start acting like my friends again. OK?

Juan, Welcome to the site. It is good to have new people join the fun. Normally we do not allow pictures, but for the purpose of helping people out, or getting help, they are permitted. Can you post a picture. Like Baitjunkys asked, what mold. Some molds are bad about this. Also, if it is a mold you made, we might need to see the mold or know more about to help you fix it.

All I can think of is that I was mixing rather aggressively and doing some large pours that would have heated the Alumilite up. I could not see any damage to the test strips of the 610 foam. When I did the above test, I mixed the foam first in the styrofoam cup, but should have been more careful. I mixed the Alumilite White on top, but I would suggest you mix it separately and pour it in. I them mixed more foam on top of that, but would suggest you mix separately and pour over.

Sorry, the labels did not transfer, but I think you get the idea.

Sometimes we go off the rails on TU with conjecture instead of facts. I suggested you call and ask, but I decided I had time this morning so I tested it myself. I cut a strip from a styrofoam cup I got from WalMart. I made a piece, a rough piece, of Alumilite 610 foam. Both were poured inside Alumilite white, at which time I tried to pull them. If a chemical or physical reaction had happened, it should have been weak or soft, and they were NOT. I also poured some 610 foam into the bottom of the Styrofoam cup, then poured in Alumilite White, then more 610 foam. It was hard to remove the undamaged but well adhered cup from the triple combo. Observations: Alumilite white DOES NOT EAT styrofoam. No chemical reaction, except for a complete bonding, was observed. Because the piece had a skinned edge, no penetration was observed. Alumilite White DOES NOT EAT Alumilite 610 foam. No chemical reaction, except for a complete bonding, was observed. The rough edges I used allowed Alumilite to penetrate until it set up. Using a skinned edge would stop that. The foams wanted to float in the uncured Alumilite White. I had to hold them down until it cured. I am attaching pictures of the process. I considered a video to be pointless. The pics did not load in order, but they are labeled. I hope this clears up the conjecture, on my part and others. I see no reason that Styrofoam would not work if held in place until the Alumilite White set up. Good Luck Hillbilly, I hope this helps.

One other thing, you might go to this link. http://www.kosmickreations.net/html/medium.html It gives a pretty good description of their paints, which are very thick, but ........ A good glow in the dark paint tutorial if you will.

Welcome to the site Way, good to have new people join in the fun. A good glow paint is difficult. Most of the glow paints do not glow for long so many of us highlight using GloNation powders. https://www.glonation.com/glow-in-the-dark-products/neutral-glow-powders.html They do have a glow paint option, but I have not used it. https://www.glonation.com/glow-in-the-dark-products/bright-time-glow-paint.html There is another source that a lot of us use, but I have not used them. http://www.kosmickreations.net/html/glow_in_the_dark_powder.html You will find that many powders come in different "grinds" of how fine the power was ground to start with. Finer grinds will mix with clear bases for application using Airbrushes, but I still use the medium or large needle on my Talon if I apply this way. Search the forum by hovering your mouse of ACTIVITY at the top right of this screen. When the drop down menu comes up, go down to search and click on it. Enter glow paints or other search names and have fun.

OK, I did not know that modification had a name. I have done it but did not find it helped. Sorry, I do not know of any company that does that and I do not know of a single lure maker that does this to their lures. If a larger one does, then the hooks will be available to the rest of us soon after.

The portion that gels is bad, remove it. You cannot thin it because it has not "dried", it has reacted to moisture.

Ditto, been fishing for almost 60 years and building lure for almost 50 and that term has me confused.

First, welcome to the forum Bass, good to have new people. No, you don't need to use Createx, but it is a common one to use for water based paint. I normally use that Hobby Lobby 40% off when I can. Buying it on line is also a good idea. As for other brands, as long as it is an Airbrush Paint, you will be OK. Some standard hobby paints are not airbrush worthy and don't have the pigment ground fine enough for the smaller needles. That could be a problem.

Welcome to the site Buz, good to have new people. I hope that you can find that mold, but if you cannot, you can make it pretty easily. Hover your mouse over Activity at the top right of this screen. When the drop down screen comes up, go to search and click on it. Then, enter the search words, like how do I make a mold, and years and years of great info will come up.

So, was that you saying that, or my wife complaining about my hobby? ROFLOL

Not sure why. I don't use those two plastisol brands, but most are similar. I add some scent to the bags I pour up and I don't see a problem. Also, unless I store the baits in the heat, I have not had them go oily, but I have heard of that before. Strange, hope you get your answers.