Anglinarcher

Give them a call. Emails seem to imply that you don't need a quick answer. I kind of figured that out recently working with other specialty suppliers. Uggggg

Have you contacted LPO and asked them about a bulk purchase? They have their pro line and they may be able to secure a bulk supply for you. http://www.proluresonline.com/

I'll bump you to the top. You have me on this one.

At the top of this page you will see a sticky for Crank Bait Blanks. Most of those companies have one or two in their inventory. Also LurePartsOnline.com has a few. http://www.lurepartsonline.com/s.nl/it.A/id.50615/.f

If this is a hobby thing, then there is a way to do this with a silicone mold. You can actually enlarge and decrease the lure size using the method. The following is how to shrink it by up to 25%. http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/71/ To enlarge it you do the opposite. IF this is a hobby thing, this will work. IF this is more of a production thing, I would get with Hughesy for sure.

I don't think I have ever seen a soft plastic Flying Fish now that you mention it. Normally it is hard plastic to keep the fins in place. If you can make it work, this might be a first.

In theory, the external components can be mapped using a CNC with a mapping probe instead of a cutter. This process actually records in CAD. In theory, a laser 3D scan can also map the external components, but translating it to CAD language from spacial coordinates would require a pretty good program. So, in theory, yes, but the process of finding the hardware and programs would be well beyond me.

Like this? http://www.lurepartsonline.com/s.nl/sc.17/category./.f?search=beads PS, welcome to TU

Kingsley is 250 degrees F., +/- 20 degrees. Some China foils are ~360 degrees F. I hope this helps some.

I use my Talon most of the time, but if I have a questionable paint, or shoot a non-water paint, I use the HF airbrush. I can't shoot the with the detail of my Talon, but that was never my goal.

I have posted a request for information on is site. We will see if he sees it. http://asklarry.huntforbigfish.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=31828 Previously we discussed this in 2012 but did not get resolution. http://asklarry.huntforbigfish.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=13908&p=21200&hilit=hollow+frog#p21200

ROFLOL - at our age, that is not luck, that is a miracle.

Sounds like you have a method that works for you, and that is what is important. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Several years ago they had an airbrush and compressor package. The cost for the two was very inexpensive. I got the package figuring that I could toss the airbrush away. But, the airbrush is quite functionable and the compressor works great. See if they still have that package.

I'll see if I can get lucky.

I wish I did. He had it on one of his TV shows and I did get a chance to talk to him about it but it has been quite some time ago. He might have put it on YouTube. One might try searching Alumilite or Larry Dahlberg on YouTube and going through them.

You can go to makelure.com and get on his forum. The forum has a lure making section on it that he visit very often. That is the best way. http://asklarry.huntforbigfish.com/ I don't have his number, he has mine, so I email him and he calls me. Because I am a no-body, at least in my eyes, and he is some-body, I try to not over use this privilege. If it can be done, he can help. As for the bubbles, I found that when I used the Flex 30 that if I mixed it slow, and poured it from a foot or more high (creating a thin stream that pops the bubbles) that I had almost no bubbles. Another option is to vacuum the Flex 30. I set myself up a degassing vacuum this last year and it has been a great benefit. I find myself using it even when I don't need to. The attached is a short video, bad but short, of some HS2 I was degassing. I hope I got of the share features set right. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FF8uH7N0I9mCxapvMneElURYzkhnHkC7/view?usp=sharing PS, he rotated it by hand I believe. I was looking into something like making the following: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BIgDPz2-W4 I would probably put a motor on it if the cure rate of the material I was using took a lot of time. On the flex 30, with a 5 min. open time, I would stick with the hand method.

Sorry to hear that. We will try to help, but you are asking a tough one here. First, take your mouse and hover over Activity at the top right of this screen. Then go down to search on the pop up menu. Enter possible words to match and see what you get. But, in case you don't have luck, I may be able to help. I have not made a slick surface collapsible frog/lure before. But, if you are talking about something like the Scum Frog (see attached) then I do know someone who has. https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/scum-frog Option 1: Larry Dahlberg made one out of an Alumilite Flex product, something like the following: https://www.alumilite.com/store/p/943-Flex-30.aspx They also make it in a 40, 60, 70 and 80. This is a Urethane rubber material. The way Larry made it was to make a master out of Sculpy clay, then made a mold from Silicone RTV (Alumilite HS2 would be a great option). The mold had a plug in it so he could rotomold it. He inserted the weighted hook into the mold then mixed the Flex slowly to reduce bubbles, then poured it into the mold. You do not want to fill the mold, only enough to balance the needs for buoyancy and strength. Larry hand rotomolded the bait for the cure period, leaving a rubber skin all around the bait, with the hook already in place. I believe that this worked very well. Option 2: What I have done is a little different. I used a damaged bait I had that I already liked for the master. I made the mold with HS2, but next time I will use Quick Set or something a little firmer. I inserted the weighted hook and then mixed up the following: https://www.alumilite.com/store/p/974-Flexible-Foam-3lb-Density.aspx This is a super soft and highly flexible material, and it floats like a cork. In the case of my master, I cut it with a hook slot to help when with collapsing. I know Larry Dahlberg well enough to know that his methods work, so option 1 can be adapted to your needs. My experience with option 2 was very pleasing for me. Sooooo, I think the two options can meet your needs. You might need to adapt them a bit for your experience levels, and especially for your demands, but that is the fun of it. HAVE FUN!

Jason, Actually, it doesn't matter at all how the jig gets to temperature, only that it gets hot enough. Sometimes, if the jig is not clean, the scale will prevent proper adhesion. In the end, I do pretty much as Mark does and the Protec I also use works great. I have a couple of other brands, but they are not sold now.

I use brass for a lot of my work, and any brass will be OK. But, for soft tempered stainless, let me offer the following excellent suggestion. https://www.mcmaster.com/#annealed-wire/=1b7sn9b Following this link and then looking or searching for the annealed wire should do it for you. PS, glad to have you on the site. We look forward to hearing from you.

Any idea if you will sell these, and if so,how much?

Wow, that looks like the blades were stacked together and then ran over or compressed in some manner. That looks a lot like what I call "oil canning". Because the blades are normally stacked once made, and extremely strong at that point, that leads me to believe it was at the factory, and a one time incident. Weird, very weird.

The real question is about at least for me.

Pretty sure ballast will do it, but next we can work on the lip/line tie. Almost positive the ballast will fix that. Ballast between the first and 2nd hook on that design, slightly more toward the first hook.

I'm poor anyway. ROFLOL