Anglinarcher

Just remember, almost everyone of us has made that mistake at least once.

Very interesting. The second one has potential. When I was researching the following I found that they suggested that you coat the nail first to make it smooth (Solarez would be great), then using the applicator to apply. This link says to keep applying until you get the results you want, but other links to the same one says to use the applicator to "burnish" the additional coats to get the chrome. Have you tried that? https://www.amazon.com/Mirror-Powder-Effect-Pigment-XUANOU/dp/B075RS6Z4D/ref=sr_1_9?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1513133757&sr=1-9&keywords=chrome+powder+coat "You need to put a bit of pressure on it in order to make sure it's burnished in really well. Brush off the excess. If the surface sparkles it means you didn't press hard enough."

But, don't discount the possibility that is is a scare tactic as well. LOL Patent law is a tough thing. Most patents are easy to break, almost too easy, but defending a patent or breaking a patent is an expensive proposition. You know what they say, in Patent Law, only the lawyers win (they get paid no matter if you win or loose).

He meant mixing it before you poured it from the container. All plastisol products settle, some even hard pack. The only solution is to mix the plastisol before you even pour it from the bottle. If it is fairly fresh, you normally only need to turn the bottle over a few times. If it has been some time since you mixed it, you may need to shake it pretty well. If it has been a long time, you may need to stir it in the bottle with some sort of stir device. Mix your supply well, try it again, and let us know. Of course, confirm you get it to 350 degrees F, either by a thermometer or by making sure it goes from milky to clear.

Not for me. I still get a picture with a dash in the center. Strange....

Same problem, can't see them.

Sorry to hear that, I had hope.

Now those are lures I would be proud to fish with. Well done. I do wish leaf products were not so expensive though.

Not personally pleased with the pictures above, so I sure hope the nail stuff works out. Please let us know.

I use a similar process on the sprue locations on foam baits, but most of the time even my foams skin over perfectly. (except for the sprue locations where I have to sand and it opens the pours. This option will work quite well.

The maximum ratio of resin to microballoons is 1:1 by VOLUME. 1.5 oz to 4 oz by weight seems pretty high to me, but I have not done a test. Still, you said you are getting the same problem either way. So, while I would still like to see a picture of the lure without the microballoons, this does help. Items one and two seem to be answered, but please attached a picture without microballoons. Painting aluminum will indeed stick, but it can be cleaned off later with a solvent. What I am trying to do is determine if there is a reaction of some sort with the resin and the aluminum. I have poured straight resin in different silicones and also also Vac-Master 50 and the only time I have ever had the issue remotely like that was when there was so much surface texture that air was trapped. It was not so evenly distributed as your sample is. Possible solutions are to place your freshly poured molds in a pressure chamber at 60 to 80 psi to collapse the air before the resin cures. Another possible option is to place your freshly mixed resin in a vacuum chamber before you pour. I just want to point out that if you are getting some kind of surface reaction, then neither the pressure or vacuum may work. I no longer have a pressure vessel, but the one I had was from Harbor Freight, using my own compressor, and it worked well. I do have a vacuum so if nothing else works and you don't have one, .......... we can discuss this later. 1) Please attach a picture without microballoons. 2) Please paint the mold, pour again, attach a picture. Good luck and we will figure it out together.

Great, now I need to find a source for clear o-rings. LOL Any suggestions?

OK, not going to happen.

Being we do not know what Alumilite told you, it is hard not to make the same suggestions to start with. This could get dull for all of us if we don't know where to start. But, I will try...... We need to test the process. 1) Have you tried to pour without microballons. Attach a photo of the bait with just straight Alumilite white. 2) What percentage of microballons are you using? 3) Please take some paint and paint a portion of one of the molds then pour again and see if you get the pin holes in that portion. Attach a photo of that as well. I am not trying to suggest a change, just trying to diagnose the issue. Lets figure it out together.

I go one side at a time, but it really is a matter of your skill level. If I was better with my hands, I think you could get away with a folding stencil style. Most paints I use would not scratch.

Looks like a great niche program. I HOPE it sells well enough that it is reasonably priced and available in the US. I cannot see me using it in my "hobbyist" level of work, but, with CD printers now, with CNC machines coming down in price, ............. Nice find. Thanks for showing us.

You mean passing a line through a lure eye twice, then tying a Uni-knot? You mean that old thing I started doing in the early 80's, and taught people along the front range of Colorado to do, before you gave it a name? You mean that old thing? I never said I don't like it, just would never call it that. ROFLOL It is a good knot, it has its place. Sure not the only knot I use, but it has its place.

This would seem to be an ok pic in my mind. It shows a process and addresses a problem we discussed. It is not showing off work. I am glad that it worked out for you. Sometimes we do overthink things.

Yes, there are super glue products designed for repairing soft plastics. I have even done it with a torch in some cases, melting the surfaces just a touch and fusing while still sticky. We all use to fuse our own creature baits back in the 80's. I cannot quite follow Jig Man's directions, but it sounds like he has thought it through. Let us know how it works.

Go fishing more Glider. You know what they say, every day spent fishing extends your life by one day. I believe this, it is my story, I AM STICKING TO IT. Wow, I think I am going fishing now.

I look forward to seeing the results.

Don't want you to feel ignored. Welcome to TU. Now, to answer your question, the answer is "it depends". Assuming that you use only dyes and pigments added to the plastisol, you do not need any clear coat. If you paint the soft plastic lure, then only a very very few paints will adhere to the soft plastic. You must use a clear to keep the paints on the plastic. In this case, the most common clear is clear plastisol used as a dip. It protects the paint job and gives it a glass like look. I even use Alumidust and brush it on the lure, then dip in clear to protect and give it that great glass look. If you paint the soft plastic with one of the solvent based paints designed to stick to soft plastic baits, then you might not need a clear coat, but they make a clear in that paint to go over it. Also, that clear will work to cover the water based paints the same company sells for soft plastic baits. I don't use it so I don't have a maker for you, but I know others here do. I hope this helps some.

I would never doubt the Alumilite guys, but don't tell Mike that I used Nylon without issues. I have done a lot of testing for him, but perhaps someone else did have issues. LOL

"Alumisol Soft Plastic Quick and easy to use phthalate-free system enables you to pour extremely soft rubber parts. Perfect for lure makers, special effects artists, rapid prototyping, and medical reproductions such as skin, fat, and muscle tissue. 1-part, heat & pour material." I think most Plastisols are going phthalate free. I am not sure why fishing lures need to be phthalate free, they don't digest it, but .............

That might be a good question for Nathan. Personally, I have not changed mine on TU in years.