Anglinarcher

No problem, and I see Larry responded to you as well. He did not know about the black color you wanted. Larry is 'the man' when it comes to that type of lure and fish.

I do remember them, good vibration baits. If you had an original it would be easy to duplicate, but I have not tried.

Good luck on that. LOL Seems like lure making always makes my "space" less organized.

Your point is well taken, but actually it has been a trend that has gone both ways. I have baits with basic craw painting dating to the 70's (cannot remember the names and not on the lure), and some of them had the claws on the correct end. Others, well I suspect most lure paint schemes were done by artist in some factory in China and not by biologist of experienced fishermen. But, as you and Bob have pointed out, if it is a reaction bite, like most crank baits, it probably does not matter all that much.

Sealers are still suspect. If the bond is chemical, then indeed it will wear down over time as it sticks to items. If the bond is mechanical, it will not show wear. It still can be mechanical but on a microscopic level. When things bond, they bond in different ways. I don't know the sealer, so I cannot tell you for sure, but I do know that plastisol does not seem to stick to much, in fact, we all wish there was a easy to paint plastisol. Perhaps the components of "your sealer" is like the new generation of paints that they are working on.

Guess it all depends on which one looks like any or all of the below??????

You probably need to use a different surface sealer. It should not be sticking to plastisol. But, yes, use a thin coat of cooking spray. Mineral oil should work, but if it is too thick you are back to the same problem. You don't want to contaminate the plastisol when it is poured. Also, you are taking old baits and remelting them. If you have mixed some baits that use something other then plastisol, and there are some other materials out there now, then it could create the same issue.

Materials will be good, do not need Microballons. The location of the weight/ballast is the hardest part of any process. I would suggest not using any ballast on the first pour, drop it into a tank and see how it sinks, with the through wire and hooks in place. Now drill in and place some weight to get it to fall horizontally, or a little nose down (glide a little better), or nose a little nose up (more of a slap type bait). Once you get the fall and resulting action the way you want, then place the weight on the through wire in those locations. I hope this helps some. PS, welcome to the site.

Adult or juvie? They are pretty generic when they are "bait sized".

I had not planed on letting the MF set so long. I moved once and when I moved I misplaced the jug. It set in a storage tote for that time, and when I moved again I found it. I am not at all concerned about the fact it settled, and how "hard" it packed will be determined later when I stir. Letting it set that long was almost a crime. My intent now is to show others that plastisol can settle/hard pack. It answers the question we so often get on the site "why is my soft bait so sticky". As an after thought, you know about 30 years ago I got a package of baits from Bass Pro that was "sticky" and super soft. They quickly replaced them, but their supplier must have forgotten to stir as well. LOL

Not one for disagreeing normally, but........ I have a bottle of MF now that I have never opened, at least 3, maybe 4 years old, and it is hard packed. I kept it to do a video of it, planned on removing the label because I don't want to badmouth a brand. All do it to some extent. I still believe I can "resurrect" it with a proper stirring.

Both above are correct. If sealed and unopened, it will not get moisture. I just put mine in my vacuum chamber and remove any air and moisture in a couple of minutes. Hand packing on the bottom is also a problem, so I remove the top and use a stir rod on a drill when I need to.

How long did it take to print each one? So, each one only cost 77 cents (US) to print (filament cost?

OK, can attach pdf, jpgs, etc., but not movies. I don't want to post a 2 minute video to YouTube, so I sent you a message. Give me your email and I can send the video to you.

A "breaker" of water was a typo. It should have said a beaker. What you need is anything that is large enough to hold enough water to submerge your lure in without touching the sides or bottom. You need a gram scale large enough to weigh the weight of the water and the lure. The Dunk Test will work for several things, so you don't always need to have hooks and hangers attached. BUT, in your case, where you are trying to sink a lure, you want everything attached. I will do a quick video and attach it if I can. It should show you what I am talking about.

LOL, funny how Resin and Microballons won't float for some but Alumifoam won't sink for others. They truly are different products. Alumifoam is the same density as Cedar Wood. At .47 grams per cubic centimeter, it means that for every cubic centimeter of Alumifoam you need .53 grams of weight just to make it neutrally buoyant. I cannot copy a link from our own web site right now, but hopefully the following link will show up soon. If not, do a search for Archimedes Dunk Test on this site and you will find the link. Do the dunk test and it will tell you how much volume your lure has. The volume is equal to the same amount, in grams, it will take to make the lure neutral. Lets Call that variable A. Weight the lure and see how much it weighs. Lets call that variable B. Subtract the weight of the lure, B, from the total, A, and that is the minimum weight you must add. Adding more will make it sink.

That will catch fish. Good work.

I don't sell lures, just won't do it. BUT, my wife did not get the memo so she sold 8 of my lures for $50 each. I have never ever purchased a $50 lure in my life so I thought she was joking. She was not. The guy who purchased them does not even fish, he will be giving them away as Christmas Presents to employees. I guess that sometimes lures are more valuable as art them for catching fish. Who would have figured that?

This is the modern world. ROFLOL If you and I were talking off line, in person, I would tell you not to worry. BUT, in print, with the world full of snowflakes and lawyers and ....... I have to tell you to be careful, be very careful.

For the search feature, look for activity at the top right of the screen when you scroll all the way to the top. Hover over activity and a pop up screen will come up. Go to search at the bottom.

You might repost this with the question specific to "Big Hammer" Swimbaits. The topic sounds like one of our other first timers questions, and while they are valid, it is a redhead verses a blond verses a brunette type thing, no one best plastic for all things and no one plastic everyone can agree on. My response was to hover over activity at the top right of the screen, move to search when the pop up screen showed up, ....... but........ Perhaps post the topic as "What plastisol is used in "Big Hammer" Swimbaits?

Dents are caused by plastic shrinking and not enough hot plastic to fill it up as it cools. Most larger lures are the ones that have this, so the injection port or a plastic storage area must be made large enough to provide hot plastic to fill in as it cools. Also, holding pressure on the material after injecting for a few extra seconds seem to help sometimes. You might repost this as a new topic to get help specifically on the dents. It is a problem with all molds. Also, you can hover over activity at the top right of your screen, then when the drop down screen shows you will see search at the bottom. Click on it and type in the topic and you will also find lots of information about it. In summary, the dents are common in lots of mold types and is a design issue.

Yes, that will work very well. I use a rubber plug I found up town that fits.

Of course, you have just noticed that the thickness of the strands makes a huge difference. I have "tabs" an I have "rolls" and I have ........ all obtained since the early 80's till now. 55 strands of today's material is pretty common, 55 strands of the material from the 80's would have been super bulky. So, like restedhook says, it depends on how bulky you want it.