Anglinarcher

http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Buzz-Blades/Aluminum-Delta-Blades.html Will these work?

Talent I might have, tools I don't have. I wish I had access to something like it though.

I will join the crowd here, Welcome to the addiction. Some of the worlds best are on this site and they have taught a lot about their craft. To add to the encyclopedia of knowledge available, hover over the word ACTIVITY at the top right. You will see SEARCH come up at the bottom of the list. Click on that and type in your search string and hold on, the world is at your finger tips. Our site owner, Lurepartsonline.com, has some awesome parts for the lure builder as well.

Or of course, you can go AlumiUV. Once you get the UV light set up temperatures are no a concern.

This was a brilliant design, and I do remember looking for it, but I failed. But, with the picture, I hope some of our experts can locate it for you (us). Thanks for the pic.

http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Bass-Jig-Trailers/8-Super-Grub.html http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Grubtails/Kalins-Big-N-Monster-Grub_2.html Contact them and they also have a "Pro" division that can do custom orders and may be able to provide bulk prices. Lure Parts OnlineTM Fast Facts Legal Name: Lure Parts Online, Inc. Business: Retail of Fishing Lure Components via Internet / Mail Order Established: 1992 Mailing Address: 580 North St., Springfield, IL 62704 Phone: 800-546-8922 Fax: 217-670-2329 Toll Free Order Line: 800-546-8922 E-Mail: info@lurepartsonline.com Web Site: www.lurepartsonline.com

I have not used it, but ........ No microwave needed. No Pyrex cups required, but I would have a couple for samples. No hand injector required. SAFET GLOVES ARE REQUIRED SAFETY GLASSES ARE REQUIRED I would have a thermometer to double check the unit. My opinion only.

This would be a good time for a picture. I for one don't have a clue which one the Naked Bait company used. If others are like me, we can help with lots of different skirt tools, and can probably hook you up, but we would need to know which one. And, of course, there is a possibility that they used a custom unit. Help? Need picture.

They don't need it. The resin cures like epoxy, two parts are added then they cure. Once cured, no outgassing exist. But, if you want to make or use one, verify the temperature. Most resins have a temperature limit, normally about 185 Deg. F.

Will send some out Monday.

If you are buying for your own use, and not buying a thousand at a time, then there is a good source for muskie sized baits. Lurepartsonline,com, the owner of this site, has some good ones at a reasonable price. I have given you a link to 2x strong and 3x strong stainless steel split rings. http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Split-Rings-Pliers/2X-Heavy-Split-Rings.html http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Split-Rings-Pliers/3X-Super-Split-Rings_2.html I believe they have a discount for first time buyers, but I have ordered from them since they were Stamina Tackle. But, post the question on the site and perhaps they can help.

I am about to do some videos. I am not the best "videographer" but if you have specific issues, let me know and I will see what I can do for you.

The lure I show above has a "thin" Alumilite White with Microballons shell, and a foam core. It has caught Brown Trout to almost 12 pounds, Rainbow Trout to over 10 pounds, Redfish in the Gulf of Mexico to 30 pounds, and my son uses it all the time for Tiger Musky and Pike. One does have tooth marks in one now after three years of fishing. My son used them for Chinook up to 40 pounds in Alaska this summer (trolling in the ocean with downeriggers). and friends use my lure for Lake Trout while trolling as well (Downriggers). I have destroyed some of them over 10 years, but at a far slower rate then the commercial baits I buy or the wood baits I sometimes make. In fact, I would almost say they are indestructible, well almost. On the other hand, I used ETec as a clear coat in those days and the AlumiUV I use now is stronger. Now, the Alumifoam is bullet proof, figuratively speaking. I have taken a hammer to it and not broken it. I have tied it to a 5 foot line on the end of a fishing rod and slammed it into concrete over and over before it broke. Larry Dahlberg of "Hunt for Big Fish" fishing show fame has used it for several toothy species around the world and even Wolf and Tiger fish only left tooth marks on it while they destroy wood lures sink hollow plastic lures. In my opinion, resin is stronger, easier to use, more consistent. Because you are already a good carver, making masters to make your silicone molds with will be easy. I envy that talent, I am slow and it is frustrating. BUT, it is a different method and will take some time to get the hang of it. Not too long, but some experimentation to get the hang of it.

Welcome to the site, and may you enjoy your lure making as much as so many of us do. I believe in using all the resources available to us. That includes YouTube, the suppliers tutorials, and of course this web site. The search feature on this site can answer a lot of questions. Go to Activity (top right of screen), at the bottom of the list as you hover over it you will see search. With that in mind, as awesome as this site is, it does not have a great tutorial section, so I will take you to Alumilite's sister site Makelure.com and their tutorials. I prefer the Alumilite products but have used Smooth-on as well. With few exceptions, what you do with one you can do with another. http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx Tutorials they have will get you close to what you want to do, and have all the basics for you. Once you have reviewed the basics, then that is where this site becomes a SUPER SITE. Start asking specific questions and the answers will flow like water under pressure. As for specific products, it depends on what you are doing. For example: 1) Near neutral buoyancy to slightly buoyant - Alumilite White with Microballons. 2) Buoyant lures - Alumilite White with Microballons, rotomolded with less material to give you a hollow body. (Variations on this available) 3) Buoyant lures with the buoyancy of cedar wood - Alumifoam 4) Buoyancy slightly more then balsa - Alumilite White shell (rotomolded) with a Alumilite 610 foam core (fill). I am attaching a density chart that should help you get started. Also, I caution you about posting lure photos. If we are "bragging" or "advertising" it is forbidden. But, if it is to show a process or demonstrate something, or to show a problem, it is permissible. So, in an attempt to demonstrate that you can be consistent with resin and get excellent results, I will post a picture. I hope Nathan lets me get away with this this time. LOL The lures shown are made using method 4 discussed above, with a photo transfer process for the colors and AlumiliteUV for a clear coat. Once you get this digested, only your own imagination will limit you. Good luck, and again, welcome to the greatest source of lure making available.

But I fish mostly fresh water, and have some dating back well over 10 years, ones where the zinc has chipped off, and they had to be replaced because they rusted. I guess each has their own issues.

I was wondering that same thing. I wish I had the two side by side to look at them. PM me your address if you want a small sample and you can compare. I have the Microballons.

I just don't like it when I have changed the hook a couple of times and the zinc chips off the surface and the split ring rust. Still, lots of commercial baits use them and if you don't change out hooks often, it is fine.

I found it worked as a thinner or reducer, and it kept the film strength well when I thinned a lot for detail work, but I do not think it "stuck" better. It is not useless, just not a super cure either.

A jig could indeed, but now that I have moved twice in the last two years, I don't have a good shop anymore. I have taken over the dining room and that means limited room. LOL.

Not sure what brand of resin you are using, but I doubt it is off gassing unless you are painting within a few hours of the pour. I lean toward the too much pressure or contamination theories. The fact that one side had it and one did not on that stated lure really supports that. Additionally, I seldom paint with lacquer because it is totally unforgiving of oily hands or excessive moisture in the air. Still, if you get the conditions correct so the lacquer goes on good, the finish is great.

It was a recycled motor, with a switch to run it forward or backward. It was part of a medical device. I cannot find a name on the motor and it has been so long ago I do not remember the seller.

I agree, supporting the mold will help. I also totally agree about drilling into the body cavity, I just have issues being consistent that way. Still, I bet that one could mold a hollow chamber inside it, like maybe a stoppered straw (just brainstorming). Some are very consistent with their drilling so that would not be necessary. And of course, rotomolding works very well also, molding with a consistently less amount of material.

You are talking about making a master, and yes, you could do it with wood and then split it with a fine blade. My concern is not with the master, that would be easy. My future plan would actually mold a left shell and a right shell, then join them. The joined piece would be as hollow as the injection molded versions today. But, with silicones, there is a little flex in the mold and I am not sure you would get two pieces that would always match. But, with a stiffer material like the VacMaster 50, or Platt 55 maybe, I think it could be done.

And I got a geared motor used off ebay about 7 or 8 years ago for about $5 plus shipping and it still turns them out. As long as it turns a couple times a minute, it will work for epoxy. Mine is quite a bit faster.

I use Alumifoam, a little different to work with, but it has the density of cedar wood. If I want to stick with Alumilite White and Microballons, I pour it, then I plug the mold pour port, then I hand rotate the mold (rotomolding). If I pour 10% or so less material and do this then I end up with a hollow core. On lures I can do this with, it gives me an Awesome floating lure. A third method I use is to use the rotomolding method with about 20% of the required material, then fill the empty void with Alumilite 610 foam. This gives me a lure just heavier then balsa. Now, back to the Alumilite resin and Microballons. Yes, best to pour form the top center of the lure, but if you do pour from head or tail, it will still work, it just requires slightly different ballast. Never pour form the belly or side. Hope this helps some.