Anglinarcher

It I my understanding that the sink rate of the Sinking Plastic is not as great as the Senkos. The company M-F advertises it takes less salt, etc. to achieve sink rates. Still, I have not done a specific test on it myself. We cannot answer the weights of the stickbaits without knowing the volume. If you can tell us what mold you are using, then perhaps someone on the site has that information. We have discussed glass beads on the site before. If I may ask, what is your issue with them? I have not yet tried them so your experience will help me as well. Good luck.

OK, either you and I are old, or we ............................... never mind. Loved that show.

You can get a lot of different answers on this one, all depending on how lawyer proof they want to be. Most Safety Data Sheets say that Plastisol is not hazardous. Well, with one exception, I have seen some that have exceptions for California which considers everything dangerous. LOL So, for years and years and years I poured without any ventilation at all. I still don't us a mask, but I do open the window and use a fan. My wife has allergies to everything, I think even me, but she does not have issues with the plastisol. Still, the smells are there (fumes, vapors, etc., have specific meanings and I don't want to go there), and can linger for a little time. If I were pouring pounds of the stuff every day like a lot of the guys on this site, then I would at least increase my ventilation. Perhaps mask would be advisable for those that are sensitive to the smell. All I can say is that you will need to review the Safety Data Sheets yourself, then try to make an informed opinion for yourself. You can request a Safety Data Sheet (formally called a Material Safety Data Sheet) from the company. I will attach a couple I have obtained myself for your review. Good luck on this one, and remember, You can get a lot of different answers on this one, all depending on how lawyer proof they want to be. SDS - PM101[113] Polysol.pdf Alumisol SDS.pdf

fshng2 finally came out, he IS A GREEN BLOODED ALIEN. ROFLOL Seriously though, fshng2 is correct in as far as depth, angle of light penetration, clarity of water, etc., all impact what light penetrates to each depth. The red itself actually does not change color, it simply disappears. At least if the color "red" is a pure color, a primary color. Because most red pigments do not actually contain only "red", then the colors that remain are what is seen. An example is the green leaves we see in the summer that turn orange in the fall. The orange was always there, but the green covered it. Once the leaf stopped producing the green in the fall, the sun bleaches out the green and the orange, always there but covered up, now shows through. White is an equal mix of all primary colors, red, yellow, blue/indigo. Orange and Green and all other colors are secondary colors, or mixes of the other colors. White is an awesome color because it appears to change color as you go deeper. Once the red is gone, you still have all of the other pigments. Once the yellow is gone, you still have the blue/indigo ranges. Ugggg, this is a subject that could, and does, have books written about it. In summary, the red does not change colors, it is absorbed and lost. What you then see is whatever colors are formed by the remaining light waves still reflecting from the available pigments. Wow, time to go fishing now.

I cannot be sure how they do it. I did some experimenting with placing a glass ball/marble in the mold when I poured and then removed it after. It worked pretty well, but I had problems getting it in the right spot and keeping it there. I don't know if this will help, but maybe it will give you and idea that might suggest a solution.

Several types of plastic leave a white film/residue after an acetone wash.

I will admit, I started like alsworms suggest, but 45 years ago there were no "starter kits". None of the starter kits are more economical then the others, but they differ on what they have. I like the Alumilite because they enable me to make what I want. I just don't see the point in molding the same thing everyone else does, just don't think it is worth the money. On the other hand, I will go out of my way to mold a color I want or a shape I need.

Yes, but like any other tool, it has limitations. In clarification, I had one of the original ones in the 80's. It finally stopped working and I have not got another one, but it does work. Limitation 1, it was developed around Large Mouth Bass. The color receptors in LMB (cones in the eyes) are not the same as the color receptors in some other species, like Walleye. Trout have different color receptors then both. So, if the C-Lector tells you that a specific color is easiest to see in that condition, it might have little to no bases in reality if you are not fishing for LMB. Limitation 2, matching the exact shade they give you is pretty tough. It use to be a color chart they gave you and you could buy paints that were suppose to match, and they seldom did. Limitation 3, it predicts what color the LMB sees best, not the color it will strike. I know that there is some correlation, but sometimes better results will be had using a color a few shades away from the "predicted" color. Note that mine had a regular color and a fluorescent color option. So, limitations, and there are more, are that in many respects it is a sales pitch. Advantages 1, it provides a good way to visually observe water clarity. You can do this with a white tube jig, but at least this is a pretty simple way. If you will, a simplified Secchi disk. Advantages 2, it gives you a great way to see how clear, stained, or cloudy water alters light penetration in water. This in itself can and will help you catch more fish. So, Advantages, and there are also more, is that you can learn a lot from it. I used mine in the 80's and after a year or so I knew enough that I was predicting the colors accurately without even wetting the cord on the unit. Still, it was a good teaching tool for that year. I hope this is what you were after. good luck one way or another.

Agreed, looking good.

A lot of sources have good starter kits. Makelure.com has a couple of options. Lurepartsonline.com, the "owners" of this site have a good one. Do-it has a good one. It all depends on how much, if any, prior experience you have and where you want to go with it. Welcome to the site and have some fun. Warning, it can be addictive. http://www.makelure.com/store/p/1088-MakeLure-Alumisol-Worm-Casting-Kit.aspx http://www.makelure.com/store/p/655-Soft-Bait-Kit.aspx http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Do-it-Softbaits-Essential-Series/Essential-Series-Starter-Kit.html http://store.do-itmolds.com/Essential-Series-Starter-Kit_p_1141.html

Both are very possible, and both will be about as hard to prove, or disprove, as the other. Take the measurements and get it to Vodkaman as soon as possible. You already have hardener on the way, and perhaps a stiffer plastic or more tail reinforcement will help. I suspect that one or the other will do the job, but........... there is a 3rd possibility, one I am reluctant to bring up but it could, maybe, hopefully not, be the problem. IF the tail stops moving at a speed slower then Vodkaman predicts based on the Strouhal formula, and IF the tail is not folding back and stiffer plastic or more tail reinforcement doesn't work, then it could actually go back to Strouhal's research. The Strouhal experiments were based on laminar flow, or a smooth flow of fluid (air is considered a fluid at the speeds we are talking about) shedding vortices. If the flow around the lure turns turbulent, then the vorticies become unpredictable and the loss of a smooth flow can/would allow the tail to either stop moving or stop moving predictably. IF this is true, then the problem will be much harder to solve. This is what happened when aircraft started to punch through the 'sound barrier'. For now, let's assume that it is one of the two above, but keep in mind that this could turn into an issue that will be much harder to explain, much harder to solve, simply using the internet. Good luck.

Travis hit on why I was reluctant to suggest a recipe, In my waters, white bass live in very "dirty" water. As a result, you could use just two colors, black and white. The color/clarity of the water makes a lot of difference. Good luck on your paint job, it really cannot turn out bad.

Plastisol makers have additives to make plastic harder/stiffer or softer. The hardener or softener from one brand will work in another brand from my experience.

chartreuse blotches? Not quite sure what you are asking here. Walking Dead is "dead-on" about how the tails are done.

As promised, guys with better eyes and more color talent have chimed in. Thanks guys.

agreed

I agree that it appears to be a shade of green pumpkin with black flake. It might have a touch of amber added. But, like I said, I am not that good at this. I have no doubt that getting the picture on here will get you better responses soon.

Almost 9 years ago seems about right. Pyrex changed to a cheaper material and stopped using Borosilicate. The Pyrex sold in Europe was still Borosilicate, but it was being phased out. Pyrex is a brand, not a type of cookware. If it says Pyrex today, it IS NOT Borosilicate, and you can do the research to confirm it. It is not the same Pyrex that it once was. Can you still use the new stuff? Sure, but sooner or later you will be on this site telling us about the broken container. If you heat slow enough, treat it gently enough, and stick with the larger containers with thicker walls, you may get lucky longer. I can only raise the red flag, or as the old saying goes, I can lead a horse to water, I cannot make it drink. I am just raising safety concerns, not trying to upset people. But, as DaveMC1 says,

Hate to say it, but if you can give us a picture to look at it will help. There are some awesome guys on this site that can match almost anything they see, but I have never known a color that was specifically "mudd puppie". I am not that good, but with a picture you should get several suggestions by our members.

Links to products I have either tried, other then leafing products, or plan on trying. Feel free to jump into the testing and let us know. http://www.dharmatrading.com/paints/icraft-decofoil.html http://www.debbiejones.com/Store-Foils.html http://store.lisapavelka.com/Clay_Craft_Foils_s/1867.htm http://www.ebay.com/itm/KINGSLEY-HOWARD-HOT-STAMP-STAMPING-MACHINE-SEAMLESS-HOLOGRAPHIC-FOIL-3-ROLLS-/290766938975?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b30f635f I all cases, I use or plan to use a misting of contact adhesive on the lure and then burnish the above foils to the lure. Good luck.

This might give you some insight to regular foil. http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/15/ Looks like CaptainSeabass of our own membership on this site can help you out. See his post and video. I do know that there are other YouTube tutorials on using aluminum foil, but I just don't like the extra weight. I tried several foils myself and if you burnish the edges down properly it works, and you can emboss the scales, but again, weight. Check the above video out for idea then do a search on YouTube. Also did the following YouTube search. Too many to count. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=foiling+fishing+lures

I know, it is expensive, but it is amazing. I have been trying other "deco" foils, and have had some limited success. I believe that hot stamp foil has promise, but that is a test and study I have not had time to try yet.

I hope this is not a case of false advertising. I know my research was done a few years ago, but at that time no cook ware used borosilicate. The Laboratory glass I have seen, and use, is NOT thinner and is designed for this. Not sure where you got your information on that one for sure.

Yes, current Anchor and Pyrex do not use Borosilicate glass anymore so it can break under the higher temps. I have had it happen twice, once on a plate and once in a microwave. I really strongly suggest getting Borosilicate laboratory glass. It is easy to get off the internet and sure a lot cheaper then lost product, and worse, a trip to the emergency room.

I actually use gold leaf. It adds little to the weight of the lure, it is easy to apply, and .........