Anglinarcher

LOL, kind of. In this case, the softer the plastic, the better.

Design must consider several factors if you are going to get "maximum action". In some cases, yes, super soft plastics will help. In some cases, firmer plastics actually help. There is a lot to consider, as Baitjunkys suggested. Keep in mind that even a blob of Jell-O only jiggles if it get's some initial energy, movement, to get it going. Without seeing your preliminary design, making a suggestion would be probably worthless to you. Sorry

I don't know the Dinger baits, but the type/style/size of hooks can depend greatly on the maker of the hook and the maker and shape of the bait. Sometimes I take commercial baits and change from the standard length shank to a short or long shank to keep it from catching on joints, hook weight, etc. In reality, there are a lot of reasons to choose a size, shank length, etc., so at best all you can get from us is a general guess.

That would be a fun project, and I think I could do it. Now, would it be worth the expense, NO WAY. Cadman is right, the cost of the custom mold(s) would be expensive. The soft plastic could be done with a silicone mold just fine, and Alumilite Flex 30 or Flex 40 would probably do the skirt just fine. Demold time of up to 4 hours would be a killer delay. The jig portion could be done with silicone mold putty, and it would work for several pours, actually lots, but I sure would not call it worthy of production level. Some things are just not worth the effort as long as you can buy them. LOL

Yes, I use it. It is thin enough to not add a lot of weight, tough, water clear, fast curing, and will cure under black light, UVA or UVB. I used the Solarez myself some time ago and it was a good learning tool, and cured faster then AlumiUV, but it was not as clear, or as tough. I try not to write post that say "look at me, see what I use" so you won't see much from me about it, but I will answer questions. I do know I have provided links to videos of it. But, like BobP says, " In the end, only you can decide if the topcoat you choose is durable and waterproof enough for your lures." I use AlumiUV a lot, but not exclusively, sometimes I still use D2T or Envriotec if I am doing a big lure. My UV system is small but my old lure turner will do very large lures.

Sure would not advise otherwise, but to put it in perspective........ I don't wear gloves, a face shield, long sleeves, long pants, and sometimes shoes when I cook in the kitchen, and many of the foods can also be sticky, also over 350 degrees, etc. Should I, maybe, I am not the best chief in town, but ........... Always good to be safe, and the lawyer proof answer is to have all safety equipment. Just saying, I personally chose to put some things in perspective.

Ya, that was probably me with the hammer. I think Larry Dahlberg may have also done it also. If you have a link, maybe I can say for sure. Back pressure on the Flex foam will increase the density, and the 320 and 610 will increase some, but the Alumifoam is so strong that I have never been able to get it to "pack". I am sure it could be done, but I doubt a Silicone mold can hold it. I advise, for consistency, to just let it expand out the pour and vent holes. Yes, you can drill it and place the hardware and weights. I have my current stuff down to where I jig it up the stuff to save some time, but then decided on an updated design that I think will swim better. Go figure, as soon as I get it right, I decide it is not right enough. Just get the small container of Alumifoam to learn with first.

One of my biggest memories, a trophy if you will, was an 8" cutthroat trout. LOL It took me over an hour in that super shallow pool in a slow stream so clear you could see everything. I had to drop to an 8x tippet, took a perfect dry fly cast and size, but I got it. I understand Dale, Trophy can be relative. That trout was sure not very big, but it was a challenge. It would not even make a worthwhile bait for some of the other fish I have caught over the years, but I still remember it. Sometimes fishing for something different or just exploring to see "what is there" makes it all worth while. Take the Peacocks, It is not the teeth that makes them interesting, they have none. But the general size, awesome topwater strikes, and color make me want to fish for them at least once in my life. Still, Wouldn't you like to fish for Wolf Fish or Tiger Fish at least once? Hard fighters, great takes, huge teeth, huge size, mean like a junk yard dog! Now, if I were to tackle Wolfs, Tigers, or Golden Dorado, it would not embarrass me to have a lure look like kindling.

Yes, very consistent. I use a pour hole and cut in vent holes at key locations. Because it expands 2x, you mix it accordingly, plus a little. I then pour it in and tilt or rotate the mold to coat the entire inside of the mold as it starts to expand. Once it is expanding I just set it down the same way every time. It expands to fill the mold, expands out the pour hole and vent holes, then cures fast. You trim off the excess, touch it up with a wood file or sandpaper, fill with wood filler as necessary, touch up with sandpaper if necessary, prime and paint. Once you get the hang of using this stuff, you will be convinced you are cheating. LOL One warning though, the stuff does not give you time to relax, it fires off very very fast. I mix I quick, don't worry about bubbles, just mix it like a wild man. It will mix, then turn like a thin coffee, and then you pour, don't wait, once it darkens like coffee, you POUR, then I rotate my mold...... see above.

Not so much. It can be machined just fine, but that exposes open bubbles. I normally do my work with other materials until I have it down pat, then I switch to the Alumifoam. when I trim off flashing or do minor repairs I use wood filler then finish from there. Because it is so consistent, at least the way I do it, once I get it dialed in I normally pour with ballast and hardware already installed. It takes a couple of minutes to trim off extra flash, touch up the bait where exposed bubbles show at the pour hole, etc., then I can start painting. In fact, I have primed the inside of my mold with paint then poured so all I need to do is prime the repaired spots. OK, another topic for some other day.

But, even the "respirator" is debatable. Most Safety Data Sheets for Plastisol say it is NON-Toxic, unless you live in California LOL. It does have a smell though. If you are a small quantity guy, well you will have to determine this yourself. But, Driftwood gives a great lawyer proof answer. Personally, I don't use a respirator. I only use a face shield if I am injecting. I would consider it stupid to EVER GO with out gloves, they are a necessity. I only use a microwave and borosilicate glass to melt my plastic (current Pyrex is not borosilicate and the high heat changes can break the glass). Good advice Driftwood, "read, read, and read some more".

Yep, glycerin is doing it. I make a thinner and I find that in a pint that I usually can only get away with 3 to 5 drops. When I was in Louisiana, NO glycerin would work. Glycerin retains moisture, and will actually suck it out of the air. That is why it reduces tip dry on an airbrush, but too much causes lots of problems. When I used glycerin in Louisiana, I found that I could dry the lure in an oven but I had to get it clear coated fast of it would start to soften the paint.

I probably deserve worse then that Mark. LOL

Yes, I have and do use over 100% microballons, but not for production baits. Over 100% is terrible to pour, inconsistent filling in the mold, and it starts to get pretty soft.....but, it has a purpose for me. I often start out with a rough shape I want to work with, then I make a master mold out of that rough shape and then pour some resin with over 100% microballons. It has no grain and is softer then cedar and most woods at that point, so It is easy to shape with a sander, a rasp, a file, etc. But, it would take far too many microballons to ever get it to float high enough for your proposes. Still, Mike of Alumilite did do this and if the shape is simple enough, it will work. The following will give you and idea of how he did his Muskie Glide Bait. http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/7/ When Alumilite came out with Alumifoam they sent me a sample to test and work with. I discovered it had the density of cedar, was much more consistent, self skinned (but does sometimes have cosmetic bubbles to fill), and was almost impossible to break. I had a video on YouTube but the email account I had attached to it was compromised and when I closed it down I lost my YouTube channel, and I had failed to keep a copy. I molded up a sample lure and used a rod and line to slam it into concrete, hammered it with a hammer, and the stuff just totally resisted damage. Larry Dahlberg of "Hunt for Big Fish" was also testing it and he made lures for South American Wolf Fish which destroy commercial lures; it held up extremely well. I believe he used it for many species of big toothed critters that otherwise sank lures. Several of his shows showed it at that time, and fish that would punch holes in commercial lures and sink them just scratched the surface. If you use Alumifoam, you should use a stiffer silicone mold, at least you need to clamp your mold and allow sufficient openings for the foam to expand so the shape stays the same and does not deform due to the pressure of the expanding foam. But, the results are a lure that no Muskie, no Tiger Fish, no Golden Dorado, will ever destroy. The down side is that you won't ever have to replace lures due to damage, you can drive a truck over them, replace bent hardware, and keep fishing. LOL So, Alumifoam is more difficult to learn, but it will do exactly what you want. They don't have a video up showing this, so I will try to get one up in a month or two (down with health issues myself right now) in case they cannot get one loaded. The other option is to pour a standard resin shell, then fill the empty shell with a 310 or 620 foam. This is a two step method and is harder to get right, so I don't suggest it if you can use Alumifoam or the Resins. I hope this helps, let me know if I have missed anything.

Take time to read my last post that was a little before yours. It will save you a lot of time, and money.

Double T, call Alumilite and talk to Mike Faupel, but I am positive that you are incorporating contamination into the system when you are pouring, moisture or air, or both. Because I cannot stand there and watch you, I can only guess at what is causing it, but it looks like moisture contamination. It could be water in the Microballons, which can absorb moisture if the cover is left off in high humidity areas. It could be water in the Part A and/or Part B, which again can absorb moisture the same way. If you are pouring a lot of it and use the resin and microballons up quickly, then you may not need to close the containers. I close every time I am done and have no issues. If you really need it, you can get Bloxygen to prevent moisture contamination in the resins but I have never needed it. https://www.alumilite.com/store/p/962-Bloxygen-Moisture-Barrier-41oz.aspx Finally, I know that the stuff must be mixed fast, but I take a minute and that does not require me to mix so fast that I incorporate large air bubbles. Consider some slower mixing and see if that is the problem. I hang my hat on the above explanation, but it is inexpensive to at least try a batch with slower mixing. Now, for some stuff that will probably get me in hot water. I call Blarney on some of the comments made in response. 1) "whats shown will not change. its an inherent issue with urethane foams". First, Alumilite white, tan, etc., are resins, NOT foams. This is not inherent or even common to Alumilite Resins. Foam was not even mentioned until I revealed that I had tried to get it to foam.....that was MY MISTAKE. Too much information can be a problem, and I apologize for that. Alumilite does have Foams, and I use the 320 and Alumifoam quite a bit, and while they self skin well, once in a while I do need to repair due to bubbles. They are not weakened by the bubbles. 2) "using too much micro balloons it seem 33% is a little bit to me"? The max amount of microballons is an equal volume of microballons combined with the weight of Part A + Part B. I have included a chart that relates the microballons to Resin, and other densities of Alumilite products. Actually, 33% by volume is nothing. 3) "One thing you could try is mix resin in with the foam." Again, he is NOT USING a foam, he is using a resin. I strongly do not suggest mixing a resin with a foam. I see only issues relating to it. Still, at least call Alumilite first. 4) "large opening in the last picture seems to be a venting issue. Maybe even more of a set up problem before a full filling of the cavity". That was the result of putting the casting material under pressure. This is a lot more then I have seen when I did it, indicating to me that the bubbles are throughout the pour. You already know my opinions on that. 5) Mark, you are dead on. Fix the problem and this won't be necessary, but your suggestion will work well, except that the material will be more dense, heavier, then he originally experienced. 6) "when expansion happens we block the pour/sprue hole. back pressure forces foam micro bubbles to collsape creating a harder denser body.. " OK, this tells me tons. Alumilite White or Alumilite Tan do not expand, with or without microballons. If it is, then you have contaminated the materials. Microballons are tiny hollow glass spheres; they do not collapse. OK, by now I am sure the I have offended almost everyone, but the record has to be made straight. I have tested this stuff over and over. I am the one that made the chart for Alumilite. If you are getting expansion, more than perhaps a 2% expansion with the resins, then you have either product contamination or a bad mixing procedure. Now I will set back and take the rebuke I am sure I will get, justified or not.

I have no idea how serious you are and how large scale you want to go, but, I gather you want to start small, learn, then see where it goes. So, I offer the following link: http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx Start at the bottom and go through the ones on soft plastics. Next, there are starter kits from a lot of companies. The following one seems to work for many: http://www.makelure.com/store/p/1088-MakeLure-Alumisol-Worm-Casting-Kit.aspx On that rain day, after you have searched out the options, then dig in and have fun.

No problem Dale. Even if I had the chance to go right now, I would still need to get my passport, check on Visa, etc., etc. I am hopping that by this time next year I will know enough to go some place.

OK, you have had good answers so far, but I am going a little off the reservation on my answer. I use Alumilite White and microballons extensively and have NEVER had bubbles like you seem to be talking about, unless I created them. It would help to see a picture of it so I can help you out. There is a lot of answers on this site that suggest that the microballons will migrate to the top once poured, but this, in my experience, is just silly. Alumilite White is pretty thick and cures in about 3 minutes. You have to mix the stuff up and get it poured pretty fast. Further, the microballons are so small they will not show up as bubbles no matter what. Assuming you mix it for about a minute, that means you have 1 to 2 minutes to pour. 10 to 15 minutes total you can demold it. Simply stated, the microballons cannot migrate in the thick liquid in that time. Still, if you have bubbles, then you have bubbles and we need to get to the bottom of it. The only time I have had anything like it was when I tried to drop a couple of drops of water into the mix to see if I could get it to foam a little and lighten up more. It worked, but was extremely unpredictable. Is there a chance that your product has been contaminated? Well, too many questions to ask. Post a picture, close up, and I can do a better job of trying to help you. As for casting under pressure, yes, it will make your product very consistent and will, for all practical purposes, eliminate the bubbles. PS, this same information applies to Smooth-On as well.

My wife's idea. She does not want my name out there and I do believe it has hurt my career. But, at my age, it does not matter now. My work was always Engineering for various government entities, from local level up. Strange life for sure.

I knew about Argentina, and suspected Peru could be, what I don't know is how to find a "guide" once I get there. LOL Wife wants me out of the house for some time and I have discovered I know nothing about fishing out of the US. OUCH! Sounds like a Docks subject, but the Docks are always pretty silent.

A good silicone mold can last for dozens to hundreds of pours if you take care of it. Tin based do not last as long as the platinum based silicones do. Tin based seem to suffer as much from setting on the shelf as they do being poured. For the most part, I keep a good master to make a new mold with and don't worry about it, but if you get silicone oil and rub the mold after you are done molding each day it will last a long time. I have some Tin based that are over 10 years old now and are in excellent condition, but I am changing my design so they don't get the use they once did. How many pours and how long of a life do you need? That will answer your question.

Probably now way to change it now, but you can always add the Chartreuse in a small batch. I suspect it will turn it muddy. Their Bright red is not nearly as red or bright as their Red Red. It is probably not a good color to mix with the yellow in this case. I sometimes wish we could get just the primary colors, as close to true primary colors as possible, and then mix our own.

Good to have you on the site. I always wondered about Saltwater fishing along Peru. I may PM you in the future.

Keep in mind that these are made in the Ukraine if I am correct. I seem to recall that shipping was months away when I looked into them. Double check to make sure that I am wrong.