Anglinarcher

Probably best to turn that research over to an unbiased source, maybe an insurance company. Unless you live in California, most SDS (Safety Data Sheets) don't seem to see a problem with it. Still, on this site, you would think it was semi-dangerous. I don't want to disparage anyone's opinion on it, just saying it seems to be a point of unsubstantiated opinions so you will not find the research that easy. Best to not take on that liability as a School Principle.

I agree with Frank, with some additional input. The key to making any money on this is BRANDING. It will not be something where you have something they can't get elsewhere, it must be that they are getting a good product that is supporting a good cause. Nevertheless, Mark is also correct. Initial set-up and investment will not be without cost.

Are you still trying to convince me or convince yourself?

You should have your own fishing show on TV.

Reminds me of the late 70's when we called them "creature baits". Made a lot of baits using a soldering iron and a lighter. LOL One thing is for sure, fish do not have a long memory, but I swear, they do have a longer memory then we think. Sometimes I think the key to any lure, finesse or other, is that it is completely different to what everyone else had used.

PPE, what is that? Is that a paint thinner or a color enhancer? LOL You know, even water will kill you if you have too much of it.

Sam, I think you are heading in the right direction, but I think you need to think this one through a bit longer. I read the above as and attempt to convince yourself, not answer questions on a post that had been dead. Still, for the most part, I think we agree with you.

I have not, but find out how thick the film is and decide if that will be OK.

But don't fix it until you send a couple dozen to Driftwood, Alsworms, Mark Poulson, and me if you have any left.

It will sure float lower for sure then Alumifoam, it is 20 pound foam, but not much. I have not used the Smooth-on 26 pound so I don't know how tough it is. Quite frankly, a through wire on the Alumifoam is not necessary, it is that tough. Alumilite sells 3 lb flexible that expands up to 5x, 3 pound super foam that expands up to 20 times, a 6 pound that expands up to 10 times and has the density of balsa, Alumifoam that is a 20 pound that expands up to 5x, and finally Ultra lite 400 that I am not familiar with. Just remember, I can help on the Alumifoam, but if you use the Smooth-on, then perhaps woodieb8 would be a better source. See if Smooth-on has videos to teach you how as well.

For the purposes of what you are asking, you can post it as an attachment. It does not need to go to the galleries.

Simple silicone molds are very easy to make. You can even get a pound of Alumilite Quickset or HS3 at most Hobby Lobby stores. If you are going to use these, use the Quickset for the Alumifoam. It is stiffer and stops the overexpansion of the foam better.

Got it. I think you have been given the best suggestions we can, I think at this point it is a matter of experimentation. Good luck Burke.

This may be a translation issue, so perhaps if the poster can identify their native language we can find another poster that they can PM. ???? Want to help, just don't know how.

I suggest Alumifoam. It is hard enough to stand up to Wolf Fish, Tiger Fish, Golden Dorado, so I believe it will stand up to about anything, including a hammer, which is what I tried. It is also the density of Cedar so it floats well. As for the methods, my best suggestion is to go here: http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx Specifically here: http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/5/ http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/39/ Maybe even starting here: http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/127/ Once you get started, it is really quite easy. I would use the Vac Master 50 for my production mold because it withstands the expansion best when using the Foam. You can use Alumilite White with microballons, but it is harder to get it to float, especially with large hooks, etc. I will include a graph for you to use for comparison. Note that the percentage of microballons is by volume, not weight.

I don't understand what taking all the "cleaners" out means. A cleaner, like soap? I just don't understand.

Do you want it transparent or do you want it opaque? If you want it to be a bright blue, add a little white with your blue pigments. This will make it opaque and a bright light blue. If you want it transparent, the more pigment you add the darker it will be. If you wanted a dark blue, opaque, then add a little black with your blue. As for uv-go, I'll really have to let someone else answer that. I hope I understand your question. If not, well, maybe someone else can help.

I should have attached this a long time ago. Notice that adding equal volume of microballons to equal volume of Alumilite is considered 100% on this graph, so I am not sure how your 10% is measured (by volume or weight). I hope this graph helps you out.

If that were true, and it is not, then it would blow breakers. I don't know the unit so I cannot comment on it for sure, but it sounds like it has a high temperature limiting switch that is not working correctly.

Sorry it took so long to get back. Yes, it will take 10 castings or so. You should be able to get a couple of dozen or more if you let it cool a little between pours. Yes, you can do a 2 piece mold. Press the item into one side first, let it cure. Then do the second side. For the 2 piece I did, I used a small box to hold it and quickly mixed the putty, forced it into the box, then pressed the lead spoon mold into it about half way. I then quickly used a knife to flatten the mating surface/top like you would level butter in a cup when mixing it for baking. 15 minutes or so later I pulled the silicone out of the box and coated the mating surface with petroleum jelly. I then mixed more putty, forced it into the box, pressed the box over the part to form the 2nd half. Once cured, I separated the 2 pieces and used a craft razor knife to cut pouring channels and air escape paths. I actually saw Larry Dahlberg do this on his TV show "Hunt for Big Fish" some years ago, so I only wish I could take credit. LOL It was his idea. I should have that mold still, but it is lost in a move. It is in my back log of projects to perfect so if I get to it soon I will do a short video and post it somewhere. Hope this helps. When I get my project perfected, I have access to other molding materials that handle the heat just fine but do not require machining, but that is another subject and another day.

For the amount and number of cycles you are doing, a silicon mold putty will work. Go to hobby lobby and get some Alumilite mold putty and be done with it. I have poured larger and more then you are doing with them and it came out very well.

Welcome to the site Redbeard. Lucky is very correct that getting a quart of material is plenty to test it, learn the craft, then once you have found the plastisol you like you can get more. One of the worse things that I see happening is someone buys bulk, does not use it up, the PVC settles to the bottom, and then the plastisol won't cure right. Best to start small and grow as you learn. Now, as for cost. I fish a lot, far too much, and I just don't save by making my own. What I do get is the colors, shapes, sizes, etc., that I cannot buy. For me, I got into this as a way to get what I could not find on the market. All of my lures, hard, soft, etc., are my own design. As time went on, people started asking to buy this bait or that bait from me and now I am almost being forced to start a limited production. Will it make money, probably not enough to be my "day job".

Offset bills are a problem, they cannot be sold to the customer. Time to out the company!

Dave is also correct, perfect symmetry is not possible, but like gliders suggested, not symmetrical enough. Building lures can be complex. Some types are so simple that it is obvious why they have been around for so many decades. Sometimes I take a design I am having problems with and put it in my "I'll deal with it later" box. Funny how often that hard design seems easy when I rethink it several months later. Good luck and I hope it comes easy for you later.

I don't think that I have ever disagreed with Dave, and I am not sure I am now. I would like to think that I am just clarifying a little. The branch of mathematics called Chaos Theory tells us that the direction the lure starts to move on the first crank/twitch should be totally random, assuming the lure is perfectly symmetrical. This means that the lure should start to move right half the time and left half the time. Once the initial direction is determined, then Dave's point of 1st and 2nd vortices is perfectly valid. What concerns me is that we are told that the lure always glides/favors to one side. To make myself clear, physics and the language of physics, mathematics, tells us that if the lure is cast and the first 1/4 crank is done, it should be totally random on moving left or right. Then, once it has a direction determined then it would favor that one direction if the 2nd vortices had formed. If the numerous micro variances involved had caused the lure to start in the other direction, then it would favor that other direction. I still think that there are symmetry issues, but consideration of the vortices if critical to the final control of the lure.