Anglinarcher

I am probably remembering wrong, but it sure looks like some that "Stamina" tackle made about forever ago. I use to have some of those, in 3/4 or 1 oz sizes, that used for what is now called "punching". The deep color helped hold skirts on better when going through thick matted vegetation and the weed guard is obvious. I use to have to superglue plastics on it. Get with Lurepartsonline.com, who once was Stamina, and see if they have it in their archive.

Forgot about that; thanks for the reminder.

You have taken a hand carved bait and made a master, and it looks great. But, as gliders suggested, symmetry is critical on jointed glide baits. It is very difficult to get hand carved baits perfectly symmetrical, but if you are going to do the jointed glide baits, they either need to be much simpler, or dead on perfect. Of course the screw eye placement/tow point/ballast is critical as well. I guess there is a reason that two piece glide baits are more the exception then the rule. It is hard to tell from the pictures, but when you have time, take some extra care to make sure that symmetry is perfect. Gliding to one side, but swimming correctly, is almost always an indication of a control surface of out whack or a cadence problem with the retrieve. I can take a Zara Spook or a Dahlberg Wide Glide and "swim" them around trees, logs, rocks, etc., by adjust my cadence to allow them to swim more to one side or the other, so it only goes to show how hard it is to make a glide bait stable. (sometimes unstable is a good thing) Good luck, and sometimes it helps to just place the bait on the back burner for a time and think on it.

Bummer, I incorrectly assumed that if mine had it then they all had it. Sorry about that.

Remember, if you have a Hobby Lobby near, you can get a 40% of coupon and get the Water Clear from them. Just saying, Alumilite benefits, Hobby Lobby benefits, and YOU BENEFIT.

No problems. You know what the good book says, by the mouths of 2 or more witnesses. LOL If you lived close to Northern Utah I would come by and together we would get if figured out. I know it can be done, but there are a lot of things to consider and products to test. Good luck.

You can, I use to do that. Airbrush primers are thinner and it took a lot of coats. The rattle can primer has more pigment and covers in one or two coats. Still, I have and still do just use Airbrush primers if I am not worried about hiding something like lead that is close to the surface.

Elru, good to have you with us. Extra hardener will not help. I suspect that the heat of your climate is causing any bent baits to take a set, or seem to warp. Baitjunkys is correct, letting them hang or just lay straight for 5 or more days will allow the plastisol to "cure" a little, but even then, if you have temperatures over say a 110 degrees, and the lures are bent, they will warp. In plastic bags that temperature is easy to get to in a hurry. Let them hang or lay straight for a few extra days, and when you store them, store them straight.

LOL, I have my Tiger Muskies, and when I was in Louisiana there were lots of species with "teeth". Several of my lures have caught Tiger Fish in Africa and Golden Dorado in South America, and no, I do not warrant them against being crushed or poked full of holes. Mine usually hold up pretty well, but it was just recently that a guy on this site wanted soft plastic to be able to hold up to 20 Speckled Sea Trout and Redfish. He was put off that plastisol was not holding up to fish with teeth and power. I just know how some of the competitiveness is on this site. BUT, Rod, I quite agree, no marks means the bait either is virgin or can't attract fish. Hehe

For me, if I know that my ballast is going to be on the surface, it sure is. White paint is not the easiest to cover the dark gray or silver of lead anyway and some of my pours have the ballast so close to the surface that it an take 4 or 5 coats to hide it. Of course the ballast is at the belly, where we always want white anyway, so ........ I just hit the silicone mold with the white Krylon, let it dry, pour my resin or foam, and I get a nice white base to start my painting. Sometimes I still need to hit it once more with a white coat, but better one more then several more.

I like the idea, but I can see the kidding ........ if it had been my lure it would not have been beat up that bad.......my lures are stronger then that........my lures are stronger then yours.... ROFLOL I think I will keep my lures out of this one, but, maybe, I might post a beat up lure that someone else made. LOL

Krylon. I use any of their primers that claim to bond to plastic because most of the time I am using Alumilite White and I get tired of priming several times with white to hide the ballast I have added before pouring. It sure speeds up the process if I prime the mold first then pour.

I am still confused SUDD, I have never had any "oil" or other residue from Alumifoam. I did the original testing on it when it came out and the stuff is awesome stuff, about the density of cedar but tough as nails. I prime the lures as normal and have no issues. I would love to know more, and you can always PM me. You can also call Mike at Alumilite directly. He can be swamped with emails. When I am trying to speed up the process on any pour, I just spray the mold with any rattle can primer and when I pour it chemically and mechanically bonds to the resin or foam. Last, you an also do as Hughesy suggest.

Hey, that's not fair. I have been ordering from them for so long that they were called Stamina then. Never got my discount. LOL

I have eyes with post I use on some large plastics I am messing with. It is a great option when you can use them.

http://www.tjstackle.com/ They have a very inexpensive one.

Nice looking eyes, great prices. Makes me think that I could stop making my own for sure. Thanks from all of us.

All lips can break; I had a Repala lip do that today. I love the X-Raps, but I swear that the lips are far too fragile. I repair my lips with The Alumilite Clear or the Water Clear that I told you about. But, like I told you before, I had to pressure pot it to get rid of the bubbles. Still, it can break if it has enough impact. First thing to do is to mix the 65D extra well in the bottle. I don't remember if it is the A or B side but it can settle out and if it is not mixed well then the results in a soft product. Shake the devil out of both sides just to make sure. Then do another test and see if it is better. If it is not better, then call mike again. Perhaps the 80D will be more to your liking, but I have not used that one. I never used the 65D for lips, I used it for some test spinner blades I was making.

The topcoat must be shrinking, and that is odd. I would try a different epoxy topcoat on a test sample to see if you have the same issue.

Some, what do you need to know about it? It is transparent, almost clear, but with an amber cast. It is hard, ridged, but able to flex as well. It can be had poured and does not require degassing, but I pressure potted the stuff I used to eliminate all bubbles. Perhaps if you have specific questions I can help.

If I was buying product, I would go to Hobby Lobby and get some Alumilite HS3 for the job. Get the 40% off coupon and the price is pretty low and I KNOW that would work. If you have the material already, then I guess you will just need to give it a try.

It might help to get the name of the product.

Floating plastic will be fine, sinking plastic was not available when Gary created his first baits. Gary just added salt (for weight and taste) and I remember a recent post where glass blasting beads were used to add the weight, get excellent sinking control, and a touch of salt was added for taste. It was an excellent idea but I do remember he followed up and said it did scratch his injector. Personally, I could live with that and I will try it in the future. If you know how to do density or specific gravity test then it is easy to determine how much to add. You might have done something like this in a chemistry class in High School.

Go to the browse feature at the top right of this web page. Hover over Browse and then click on more. Move down and click on search. Enter "Sinko receipe" into the search and hang on. LOL There have been other request recently for that and I personally am not sure that a final solution was ever determined, but there is a lot of great information regarding it.

I have not had that problem myself with the clear coats I use. And using the rattle cans is a common practice in some parts of the world, but........ Your point is well made and causes me to give some thought to this.