Anglinarcher

Most of it comes off with the pour, but the rest comes off with a wet alcohol rag.

http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/119/ See about 45 seconds into the video for a simple explanation

OK, yes, the powder will mix into the plastic, but to get a true metallic result it must be on the surface. I can either paint it on the bait after the pour and hit it with a heat gun to seal it, or paint the mold with it and then pour. I find I get the most metallic result from painting the inside of the mold and then pouring. My procedure, at least the best way I can explain, is as follows? Let's say I want a "rainbow trout" pattern/color. I will use a white dye in the plastisol for a base. I then paint the inside of the mold first, starting with my red line. then I paint in my parr markings and spots. Then I dust the top with a little dark grey or green for the back, then I dust the silver over the sides. Consider painting the lure in reverse order because you want the red on the most outside, the parr markings and spots next most outside, etc......... It really doesn't take that long to do, but I don't make hundreds at a time either. LOL How does it hold up? It becomes part of the plastic and it holds up as well as the plastic holds up. Sorry I don't have pictures of the process. I plan on starting to do the videos of my work and putting them on either Makelure.com or YouTube, but........ I moved recently and my stuff is mostly in storage. I HATE MOVING.

Hope the design shows up in the home brew tools section. Love it.

Don't toss out the MoldStar. I am sure that it has a place once you get hard masters made up. Most Platinum Silicones last longer in the long run. I was lost when my Hobby Lobby was out of Alumilite Quick Set and HS3. Only hobby store I have the app on my phone for.

Update. I checked their website and Modstar is their Platinum cure material. I am sure that it is materials on the surface of the "masters" that is causing the problem. Clean them with rubbing alcohol or at least give them a good trip through the dishwasher and maybe that will work. Oomoo or MoldMax might have been a better option for the SmoothON line for what you are doing. Maybe even their Polysulfide Rubber but I am not an expert on SmoothON products.

It might be fun to try to split the poured bait, inbed the wire, then glue it back together, but....... Best to do as implied above; modify your mold to accept the wire and pour as one piece.

I don't know Moldstar products so I can mostly suggest you contact their customer support. I can tell you this much generic information. Silicones come in 3 basic types to the best of my knowledge. 1) Solvent/evaporation based. This is like Silicone caulk. It evaporates the solvent that keeps it liquid. It can be used to make molds but is much harder to work with and I am sure is NOT the type Moldstar 30 is. 2) Tin Cure or condensation Silicones. 3) Platinum Cure or addition Silicones Without going into a chemistry lesson here, just know that the three behave differently. Platinum cures or addition silicones can react to items on the surface, such as left over mold releases, scents, paints, etc. If that happens, then I have seen exactly what I am seeing in your picture. I can't be sure, but ................ Best to contact Moldstar directly. Until you get a response, you might try cleaning the masters very very very well. Good luck.

Any time. We get as much back as we give on this site.

OK, back to silver. You can paint the inside of your molds with a powder that is the silver you want. https://www.alumilite.com/store/p/953-Alumilite-Metallic-Powder.aspx https://www.alumilite.com/store/p/1082-Alumidust-clone.aspx These work for me. Dust only where you want the silver and let the other colors be painted, poured as normal for you.

https://www.alumilite.com/fishing-lure-making-supplies/making-lure-larry-dahlberg#prettyPhoto/10/ And another one that might be fun for you.

https://www.alumilite.com/mold-making-casting-how-to-tutorials/molding-casting-beginner-basics#prettyPhoto/3/ Another video of making a two piece mold.

How is the Smooth-On working for you BsssJunky? Two piece molds a problem?

There are a few, from guys using clear silicone from The Home Depot to Smooth-on to Oomoo. I stick with Alumilite because I can always get awesome videos and even call them for direct advise. You will need to determine the best for you, but I'll stick with what I know works best for me.

A proper mold release does allow you to pull two piece molds apart. Silicone does stick to silicone, but it can be prevented. I use UMR from Alumilite for all of my mold release. You can also paint the first mold half with petroleum jelly and that also works very well. If you don't use enough mold release, getting the two pieces apart is a real pain, or impossible, so even when I use UMR I spray, allow to dry, spray again, allow to dry, then mix and pour. Grab your petroleum jelly and make another one and you will have no issues.

I agree with Travis on his definition of hunting. BobP is dead on with bumping cover. It is unfortunate that the term "Hunter" has been stolen and redefined.

Dave can fill in the gaps on this explanation, but in reality, the pivot is around the center of pressure, which is a complex interaction between the two eye, the control surfaces (lure back and lip, etc.) and center of mass. It is the center of mass that is altered by moving the ballast. By moving the ballast up, you move the center of mass up, and the resulting pivot point moves up. Move it down, you move the pivot down. Moving the center of mass impacts the motion less then the lip adjustments that Vodkaman (Dave) does, so as a result, it works, but is not the only way.

Excellent post Dave.

Wow, lots of great questions. I find that metal lips can be much thinner, and this makes a difference in action, I think an improved action with deeper diving and faster responses. Metal lips tend to be much stronger as well. If I have a lure I want to pound the rocks with, metal is awesome. Also, metal makes a different sound when it hits cover. Metal lips are "old school" for sure, but I still dig some of my old old old classics out for a run now and then. The real question is will they sell. People liked the clear lips because they look more real. I doubt the fish care that much, but .........

I like the Alumilite kit. Other advice from DaBehr is dead on.

Silicon can handle temperatures to 395 degrees F, and more for a short time. Plastisol converts at 350 degrees, and is usually re-melted and poured lower. NO PROBLEM with the heat gun if you don't over do it.

As JimP indicated, being exact is not necessary, but being well mixed is.

We do need the picture, and it does not need to be in the gallery this time. Also, as gliders said, floater or slow sinker? The devil is in the details, buy I had no issues. We can help, just give us some time. I will also offer the following link of recipe you can follow. http://www.lurebuilding.nl/indexeng.html

Alumilite White; http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/63/ Mix at least equal amounts of microballons with the resin to get the softest material for shaping. I have used the waxes as well, and sculpy, and femo, and ........... even PVC. Lots of ways.