Anglinarcher

I am going to link you to a video done by a friend. Watch this, learn the concepts, and any size glide bait can be made. Doing it with Resin is just the cherry on top.

I have a regulator for air brushes. I suggest that is the only way to regulate the air pressure.

Been looking for a "less expensive" one myself. The best I have found are the following: http://store.do-itmolds.com/Medium-Injector--4oz_p_325.html http://store.do-itmolds.com/Large-Injector--95-oz_p_269.html We want them to be safe, but, wow, a little expensive for hobbyist and low volume production. Good luck.

Welcome, and good luck. Be advised that this addiction has NO CURE. You can leave it for some time, but you will always come back to it. LOL To start, white, black, and the primary colors (red, yellow and blue) will do you well enough. With those colors, you can mix your own colors. But....... I don't like to mix so white and black will catch fish more often then anything else. Another common color is Chartreuse. Add a good pumpkin and you can make some awesome lures. Now, I will be interested in seeing what others suggest.

Very strange about the black paint. I have never had issues with any black paint and Solarez curing. What black paint are you using?

You sure do like Atlantic Salmon style flies. Looks good.

Yes, even more so. I use to use flex coat when I use to make rods, and if you turned them every hour or so for the first 12 hours, it worked ok, but........

David, you are correct. DRYING & CURING TIMES Auto Air Colors are water‐based paints which

They look pretty close to each other. It is pretty tough to tell them apart without samples.

http://www.airbrush.com/Fluorescent/products/1217/ http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Fluorescent-Hot-Green-4oz/productinfo/161016/ The attached links will get you closer. Chartreuse is a difficult color to quantify. Normally it is a fluorescent yellow/green but different manufacturers will give you different hues under the same name. I believe AutoAir , being an Automotive paint for air brushes, is NOT water based, but..... do some research on it. Otherwise, Testors is as good as any for a Lacquer paint. Good luck.

This is a link to the box design I was going to use. I like the idea of a geared motor as well. http://www.solacure.com/poolcue.html I also attached some suggestions from Alumilite for UV Cure. UV cure options.pdf

I know a couple like that.

And Alumilite and .......... so many, and each has their followers.

The Alumilite Flex series of rubber really benefits from degassing, or curing under pressure. Contact Mike at Alumilite and he can talk you through it. I made some R2S tails from the 40 and it worked great, but I let it cure under 80 PSI in a pressure pot I rigged out of a pressure cooker. Not suggested, but .......... I also made some from Silicone and found it a better option. The Alumilite Trans 40 platinum base silicone rubber would be a perfect option as well. Again, call Alumilite and confirm, but ........ Personally, I don't like the stiffness of the R2S tails. They do it for anti-roll stability so I know why they do it, but flexing on the strike is not going to happen. Still, it is your choice. Good luck on your hunt.

I got lazy, it is Titanium DIOXIDE. Thanks for keeping me in check.

I use plastic wood filler. Works fast, works great, sands super easy.

PayPal has had a lot of issues lately. It has failed me in two attempt to purchase things lately. I use to love PayPal.

Outside light is awesome, and the cloud cover stops the harsh reflections. Of course, the flash works well as a fill in. But, if you don't have those conditions, what do you do? The key is not the type of light, it is the "temperature" of the light. Now the term "temperature" is a bit confusing, and I won't go into where the term came from, but the higher the temperature the closer to true white the light is, dispute the fact it is called blue white. The range is measured from 0 K to 10000 K but most residential and commercial ranges run from 2700 K to 6500 K. If you go to your local Lowes or Home Depot, check out the Fluorescent light bulbs. You will see that "soft white" is about 2700 Kelvin. Don't worry about what the terms mean, just worry about the differences. The soft white is what most standard old style incandescent light bulbs put out, the yellow white color. It is terrible for pictures. I like something around 5400 K for my lure work. It is close to "daylight" color and I feel like I can get better detail with painting, etc. But, you can easily find 6500 K, and even more white. I believe 5400K takes some awesome pictures. I believe that 6000 K or above will give a blue look to most pictures. I found the following quote on the internet. "The three primary types of color temperature for light bulbs are: Soft White (2700K – 3000K), Bright White/Cool White (3500K – 4100K), and Daylight (5000K – 6500K). The higher the Degrees Kelvin, the whiter the color temperature." I also found the following link that helps. http://www.westinghouselighting.com/color-temperature.aspx Don't be concerned that you don't have a fluorescent fixture, some LED screw in bulbs are also daylight rated. If you use ~5000 K to 5400 K lights, and you use reflectors to prevent shadows, you can take excellent pictures of your lures. PS - Flash units are normally about 5400 K.

Good luck guys, but I suspect you won't like what you will find. White is the toughest material to get to cover colors. It is a physics/science problem, but to get it to cover colors, the darker the worse, you need to have a LOT of pigments. To get this, you can thicken the paint or apply many coats. Titanium is the normal white pigment and if you apply it with water based paints too thick when painting, it aligns and allows light to penetrate. In short, lots of paint, lots of coats. But some are better then others. BobP has suggested a good one (Polytranspar Superhide White), one of the best I have found, but.......... I finally started using a white spray paint like Krylon for my base coats. It is solvent based, dries super fast, covers in one or two coats. Then I hit the coat with a little steel wool, clean it, then go back to my airbrush. It is just not the easiest thing to do to cover things with white.

This is a multiple level question. 1) Reusing factory baits. This can be tricky. Some are not made of plastisol and they will not melt and pour correctly. If they are made of plastisol then it is ok. Remember that multicolored baits, when re-melted, blend the color, so it can look muddy. 2) Reusing your own baits. Absolutely. Just remember that every re-melt makes them a little harder so you might need to add softener. Also remember that every re-melt tends to yellow or burn it a little so consider that and use no more heat then is necessary. Of course the multicolored baits issue still applies. I re-melt my old baits and reuse my plastic all the time. Each re-melt usually goes into a darker color.

Personally I upsize the wire thickness one size. I think they bend too easy and it kills the Rooster Tail action.

The new Copic Airbrush system would work well for you. The paint is Alcohol based. Very light, fair color options, takes clear coats well.

Tough question. My thoughts are that until you get a reputation they will probably not want to pay for things unseen. Nevertheless, too many just want things free. I would require payment first, but that is just my thoughts.

Not sure heat setting works on the alcohol based Copic system, but totally agree on UV light protection. My "big box" would have been light sealed but my nail cure is not. I know not to look at it. LOL They sell UV protection glasses on one of the links I gave above. Most sun glasses have 100% UV protection as well.

I love bone, but bone is not a color on the color wheel. LOL I have had bone lures from some companies from a couple of years apart and the colors are as different as day and night. And bone from company A is always different from company B. I think alsworms has it right, give us a picture, preferably a picture with the sample on a white background. Then we can make suggestions, but fine tuning will be your deal.