Anglinarcher

Do a search for photo finishes. I know that Husky gave a great way of doing it by printing a fish picture on tissue paper and then applying the tissue to the lure. The ink shows but the tissue disappears. I do it by printing fish pictures on water transfer decal paper that you get for making decals for models. You would be shocked how well the lures work out, no paint required. LOL Still, now a strong clear coat is critical. Both of the above methods work best with a good under paint to get started. I often use a white belly, a dark back, then transfer the decal over. Sometimes I will use a foil base and put the decal over that. I am responding while using IE so I cannot cut and paste to give you the link, but like I said, Husky gave a perfect tutorial in March of 2008. Check it out.

Alumilite RTV. Check out the Makelure.com site and look at the HS1, HS2, or even the HS3. Also, check out their how to videos.

LOL - sounds to me like sales gimmicks. Yes, I am sure there is a difference, and in the same note, at times each version could have it's time. But, how do we answer the question? There is no color chart giving clarification on this, anymore then there is a color chart giving clarification on the 500 colors of red lipstick. ROFLOL. I suggest that the best you can do is to get samples from the makers and compare them to what you need.

I like the "out of the box" thinking on this site, and for this subject, but Bass100 gave you all the best approach. Making a mold using RTV mold putty takes just minutes to do and you can pour whatever you want. Making a mold out of the liquid RTV, like Alumilite HS1, HS2, or even HS3 which does take overnight to cure, is a one time thing but does give supreme detail. I have made floating jigs using expanding foam from Alumilite. I have made near neutral density ones using Alumilite White, a resin. The resin sets up in about 10 minutes or less and is very tough. You will never pull a wire weed guard out of it. I do not find that hot melt glue holds paint any easier, and it is easy to use Alumidust on the inside of the mold before you pour and you get your jig "colored" permanently without ever using paint. (cosmetic powders like blush, foundation, and eye shadow, etc., work well also). Adding microballons will make it float and adding a little weight will make it sink faster. Oh, and will it react to plastics or silicone or rubber skirts? NO, it is nonreactive. I have made near neutral density jigs using Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast. It also pours well, but takes longer to cure. IT IS CLEAR. Of course, you will still see the jig and wire weed guards. LOL I have also made spinner blades out of the Alumilite White and Amazing Clear Cast (resins), as well as spoons. My first Alabama rig used Alumilite White and it is so tough, and in my case so very light. The weight of my swim-jigs is what I use for casting. I know, I sound like a salesman, but the truth is that I just use the stuff and I know how good it is for what you are doing. No preheating molds to get it almost too hot to hold, but not get burned; no waiting until the sprue is white, no mold releases necessary. And yes, there are other brands of RTV and resins, Alumilite is just what I use. Check out the web site and watch the how to videos. Perhaps it can give you some ideas. Still, I like the idea of the hot melt glue. I bet that it will have some applications for something in the future.

Can it be done? Yes. Can you do it? That depends on your skills. Some years ago I did this with a Dremel tool and it works just fine, but, remember, you can always remove material but adding material if you take too much off is NOT SO EASY.

That would work well.

Just put another coat on it. It will harden up eventually, but ...... why wait.

OK, I probably should not get into this, but ...... I am too stupid to stay out of it. I don't find Storm lures all that good. I have probably 10 to 20 various styles of them, and while they are durable, they get stiff as a board in colder water. OK, why do I still have them? I hate to throw anything away and I figure that in time I will find a use. Perhaps now that I have moved to the south I will find that the warm water will be more there style. For the colder water I was use to in the Northwest, I made my own swimbaits in various styles using softer plastic and they worked much better. I still find they work very well in the warm/hot water, so I sure won't stop making my own baits. Now, as for mesh, well you can have better plastic then Storm has and still have mesh in it. I have experiment with it, and if I actually sold lures I might actually consider adding it, but for my use, I just don't feel the added time making work is worth it, but ......... the my cost per swim bait is so low that this becomes a factor. I guess what I am saying is that I understand TOPFLIGHTs desire for a less expensive and more durable bait, but I sure would not hold the Storm Swim Baits up as the model to follow.

I like it a lot, would love to see it swim. Have you taken any video of it that you can post on YouTube or similar? I really do like it.

I agree, what mold. I love the style and you did a great job. I could see myself using those!

LOL, I didn't think they still made those. Yes, I do use them, for measuring a LOT of things while molding. Mine are yellow and I have the full Lee set.

One or two piece silicone mold will work great for pouring soft plastics. I do a lot with it. There are several stiffness's of silicones, but I think the Alumilite HS2 is the best beginner material. http://www.makelure.com/ Go to the How-to-Videos and you will see how to make the molds and how to use them. If you check out the lure photos you will see some of the soft plastics poured. As for lead, well you can use the silicone mold putty to make a mold. It will not last for a really long time, but it works pretty well, especially if you let the mold cool some between pours. I find it works much better then POP or Bondo. Of course, there are other companies, but the link I gave will get you started. Painting plastic, well try this link.

NICE LOOKING BAIT! Well done, and I wish the best when it comes to swimming it the first time.

Check out the hard bait post on it. The Flex 30 might work great, but I will stick with HS2.

I use silicone myself. Specifically I made an RTV mold of Alumilite HS2, spray it with mold release, then I pour HS2 into the mold to replicate the S Waver tail. It is exactly what you want, softer then tub tops, firm enough for stability....

Cannot confirm with the fantastic. Ammonia is considered bad on the Chrome of air brushes, so most advise to NOT use any ammonia window cleaner. The rest of the NON-ammonia window cleaners are just alcohol in water. I suspect that Fantastic would be a great cleaner for your air brush, but I would be reluctant to use it as a thinner for Createx. Yes, I have added color tint to the Future and I found it works just fine. I have even used the Future and added a little of the paint to create a 'candy' type coat, so ....... probably need a big needle to shoot any powder.

Pledge floor shine is just clear acrylic, it is not a wax or polish at all. I find it works well enough, but I don't think it is needed. To be honest, if you have the right pressure, the right needle and nozzle on your brush, you really don't need any more then just a little water. I started out with the reducers, alcohol, no ammonia window cleaners (which are just alcohol) and if I let the bottle dry out from lack of use, a little water or reducers is important. If I don't let the bottle thicken up, I just don't need it. I guess I have used the air brush long enough now that it is just not a problem...... or maybe the Talon is just a really good air brush. Who knows for sure.

To answer your question, no, not all actions scale linearly. But, that is seldom a problem when you size up and it is more of a problem with swim style baits. Most of the time the photo copy machine or the computer programs are just fine for what you want to do.

Or my favorite, http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx Look through the different videos and you will see all you need to know.

I wash with a little alcohol, hit it with a little Krylon Fusion paint that is designed to adhere to plastic, then go from there.

Brass, best way to go. It is soft enough to tune later. I size it according to the lure I am making, but you would be surprised how little it can be and still take on Musky.

I don't know how to copy and past anymore, if you can even do that on this site now, but I sent you a PM on the subject. I will try to do a short summary on this. I don't know of any Super Lite casting resin, unless it is the 400. I have not tried it but the specifications on it don't look good to me. I would NOT expect it to be good for lure making unless it was used as a filler inside a shell. Just my opinion, but .... Quick Set RTV is the firm version of the RTV, and it is excellent for two piece molds or open face molds. RTV 2 is more flexible, more versatile, but Hobby Lobby does not carry it. RTV 3 is the most flexible and is best for one piece molds or parts with a lot of undercut. 2 is my favorite but I use all three. Microballoons are not necessary for the 620 foam (same density and strength as balsa) and Super Foam 320 is too soft for lures in my opinion. Alumifoam is the same density as cedar wood, but as tough as nails and hard as a rock. Microballoons work best with Alumilite White or similar to make hard plastics, not foams, lighter. A vacuum is not necessary for Quick Set, RTV 2 or RTV 3. If you ever go to PLAT 4, then you will need it (I don't use PLAT 4). Let me know if I can help any more. The www.makelure.com web site has how too videos, links to their products, and even a lure photo section of past lures submitted. Makelure.com is a branch of Alumilite, part of Mike's (Alumilite owner) hobby side of work. LOL Great guy.

I have used Solarez for spinnerbait heads, and for almost everything else. If done correctly, it is glossy and you don't get that much of a waxy haze. I have used some sample Alumilite UV that I was given about a year ago, and it is glossy, super strong, super clear, best stuff I have ever used. The Alumilite UV sample I got was worm proof, did not yellow or get brittle after a summer in the sun, just good stuff. I have not had a chance to use the new production sample of the Alumilite UV, even though I got a bottle of it....... just can't seem to get my man cave put back together. Smalljaw, I think you got the Solarez that is for fly tying. That stuff is far too expensive for spinner baits, etc. The stuff we have been using is for coating and protecting surf boards ...... much cheaper, good stuff, but it has a wax that migrates to the surface and if you don't do it just right, it gives a dull and hazy look.

If you pre-drill, you can add the screw eyes to hard plastic just fine without issue. If you cast them in, even better. Because I make my own molds from RTV, I just place the screw eye in the mold and it holds it in place for me......pour in the resin and all if complete.

I have used Solarez. I brushed it on thin so it did not fill in all of the wanted detail, but enough that it would fill in the wood pours. Worked for me.