Anglinarcher

Tough question for sure, and a lot of personal opinion is involved. Personally I think it depends on the size of lure, the type of fish you are after, even the type of lure you are making. I should take more time to explain myself on this, but this is the short version. (This could take a chapter of a book to explain) On species that are less aggressive, like many freshwater trout species, I find that the tail hook is important. On larger lures, lures that often work much better than people think, the trout will tail tug or test the lure first and tail hooks really up-the-catch rate. Still, when the fish are aggressive, the trout will hit the front and on larger lures a tail-only hook will miss the strike. On species that are more aggressive, the real predator species, or any species that is fired up, they are eating and an eating fish eats head first so that they can swallow the fish (presumed thing we are imitating) without the fins chocking (getting stuck in the throat) the predator. Even species that "stun" their prey first usually strike head first or center body, so hooks placed more toward the head seem to be the ones that hook up. On lures that invoke reaction strikes, the front to center hooks usually are the ones that hook up IMHO. On lures that are strait swimmers, ones normally used for neutral mood fish (based on active, neutral, or negative moods of feeding fish) the tail hooks are often the ones that take the most fish. On negative mood fish, fish you may need to put the bait on their nose and keep it there for a time, the strike may be at any point and hook placement is always a guess. I could go on and on, and the lines get blurred a lot: for every rule there is an exception, so I don't want to even start trying to say one is better than another, but.......... here is my best advise. On smaller lures relative to fish size (how small is small?), when fishing for aggressive fish, front hooks are probably all you need. On larger lures, relative to fish size, fished for feeding fish, front of center hooks are probably more important, but tail hooks help. On any lure fished for neutral or negative fish, especially larger lures, front of center hooks and tail hooks are important. And..... well you get the point. In my experiences, I have fished a lot of very clear water. In my area, trout, like Rainbow, Cutthroat, and Browns are a common target. I have watched them follow a lure for several feet and just keep picking at the tail. Without a tail hook catching them would be impossible. On the other hand, I have also seen the same fish just appear out of the dark and grab the lure by the front and than a hook front of center is critical. As for a single hook, when used for a tail hook it works fine for me. I often replace my tail hooks with a single hook to make releasing a fish easier. When used for a front of center hook the hook often lays along side the lure and does not connect with the fish. I have used trout as an example because I have so much experience with them, but I have seen similar behavior in species in the Gulf of Mexico, off the coast in the Pacific Northwest of the USA, Musky and Pike in Minnesota, and on and on. I think it was In-Fisherman Magazine that I first saw the explanation of aggressive, neutral and negative feeding moods of fish, but consider this concept when designing your lures. It might help some to answer your questions.

Dave, I still think you are overthinking this for a beginners level. Most 2DP scales need to be calibrated for each use as well so make sure you have a certified mass. I do use a graduated tube for volume that I obtained from a Laboratory supply house. The good ones will measure well below 1/10 cc and now that the can of worms has been opened, the larger the samples you use the smaller the errors. Large volumes, or large masses make small errors less meaningful. In other words, when testing, make sure you are using larger amounts. How large you ask? Well I was once told to test 5 structural bolts to confirm the lot was sufficiently strong, but the bolts were custom made and only two bolts were made for that application. Obviously I could not test 5 bolts because I only had 2, and testing 2 left nothing for the application. In short, use your best common sense. Now, for my level of experience, and with my equipment, I would actually like your spread sheet for my own use.

I rate Alumilite very highly for casting lures, I use it exclusively, but the more microballons you add the less "pourable" it becomes. I chose to use volume as a quantity because microballons are so light that a small error in mass/weight will make a huge change, while a small error in volume will not. If I did the graph differently again, I would label the axis differently, but 10cc of microballons and 10cc alumilite is a 100% mix on my graph. As you can see on the graph, 9.2 cc of microballons and 10 cc Alumilite white give a density of .69, Water has a density of 1.00. This should at least get you started.

Great plan Dave. I did a graph for Alumilite using Microballons several years ago and I totally agree that mass, not volume is the key.

Perhaps the question should be can you control the temperature of the hot plate? I offer the following link regarding the breakdown of silicone and temperature. https://silicone.co.uk/news/temperatures-can-silicone-rubber-withstand/ From that web site: "For example, if heated up to 150°C you would see very little change in the silicone, even if held at this temperature for a very long time, At 200°C the silicone will slowly become harder and less stretchy with time, and if the silicone was heated up to a temperature beyond 300°C, you would quickly see the material become harder and less stretchy in a very short time, due to such extreme temperature conditions but it would not melt." Now, not every silicone can handle 150 deg. C (302 deg. F) for a long time. But, the Alumilite HS2 can withstand up to 395 deg. F for some time. I seldom go that hot, and I always treat my molds with liquid silicone oil after it and let it set (makes it last longer). In my opinion, a hot plate that was holding a temperature of say 175 degrees F, it would be well below degradation point but would preheat it well before use.

As a youngster, less then 12, I use to make a version of the super duper out of copper sheets. I polished the sheets and treated it with a clear coat (don't remember which but later in life clear fingernail polish) and I swear they caught more fish than the original. The Jakes has a different shape, but is well within the ability of most lure makers. If I could find the copper sheets again with the correct thickness, I would make them right now. So, is it worth it, for me it would be.

PTFE, otherwise known as teflon, has various formulations. Plastisol will not stick to it, but some forms, like teflon tape, can melt with hot platisol. Some teflon has a super high melting point and would be fine. Sorry, not sure if this helps.

Lurepartsonline.com had some, but I don't know their source.

I think that this was fun, if nothing more than to remind me of my engineering physics classes in the early 90's, when we investigated this motion. I am quite sure that the extra energy "absorbed" by the lure by towing it in the water will overwhelm the very minimal unstable motion due to the Dzhanibekov Effect. Still, the TRUE scientific method allows us, even requires us, to consider alternative interpretations to what we think we know. Thanks for the mental exercise, but I don't think I will be joining in on the development and design on this one. LOL

Yes, I tie a few gamechangers for myself. Properly tied, they have very realistic swimming action. They are articulated, time consuming to tie, hard to cast if you tie too large of a fly on, but ....... they can be awesome. I used my 10 wt switch last year to land a 56" Tiger Muskie, but the fly was 10" log and all that my Switch could handle. I wish my gopro had not lost battery power. I plan on tying some smaller versions for Brown Trout this winter, but, did I mention how long they take me to tie?

Makelure.com has some good video of injecting a silicone mold. With the right Silicone, it works well.

Just NOT Ox Blood.

Looks good, better than the Rapala IMHO.

I'm not sure why they won't work. They look close to good. If I see anything, it might be that the spacing between the silver beads could be a touch more, and a second silver bead below the blade would help to move the blade away from the red bead until it is spinning. It is hard to tell for sure, but it looks like the shaft is dirty, has something on it, and the shaft needs to be clean, smooth, and polished.

No, but I have used Spike-It products and they are good. The idea of using a de-aired or degassed product also works. I have a vacuum to remove gasses from molding products and find it works good, if you need to have a gas free result. I don't happen to find that it make much difference for me on molding baits, but it sure does when making molds....... so to each their own. Give it a try, I believe you will be pleased.

What floating agent? The agent would need to reduce the density, and be chemically compatible, so ............ I have seen microballons added to plastisol to reduce the density, and you can add it at any time. Still, it makes it opaque, white, and less soft. BUT, if you have a chemically compatible additive, that won't boil off at 350 degrees, then in theory....... What floating agent?

Just another Alumilite UV, or another Solar Res. I see no reason it wont work well.

Alumifoam is much tougher than cedar. You can use screw eyes alone, no wire harness, and it will not fail. When it first came out, I molded up a jointed bait with screw eyes molded in and tied it to Power Pro fishing line. I than slammed it into concrete and it took about 10 smacks on the end of the rod to the patio before it broke. I hammered it with a hammer into dirt and it did not damage it. Can you break it? Yes, with far more effort than any wood. Larry Dahlberg used it in the Amazon on Rattle trap type lures an it broke teeth off fish instead of breaking the lure. I caught some 4 and 5 foot shark on a lure I made with it in the Gulf and they left scratches but I never had a hook pull. Now, as for painting, They can be tough. I believe that Larry had one of his "Hunt for Big Fish" shows where he painted the inside of the mold before molding it to transfer the color. I have used Copic alcohol based paint and it worked to a point. Normally I use white Createx and air brush several thing coats. I have also used rattle can white to base coat it and that may be the best option. The foam is hydrophobic so coverage is not easy. Light coats, build up, then paint. Super Glue will not eat this foam. Acetone will not eat it. In fact, a Dremel Tool has a hard time cutting it, a drill penetrating it. I made some floating bodies out of it for a friend so he could cut slots and add his own hooks. My friend sent them back to me. ROFLOL He said it was to hard to cut. Now, as for bubbles, if you prime it and paint it properly, you won't have bubble problems. If your prime and paint job is poor, than any top coat will bubble.

I do once in a while, but I'm normally to lazy and just toss them. LOL

Matzuo was purchased by Zebco so I don't know how available hooks will be by them. I understand that they are more available in the Asian market, and to a lesser extent in the European market, but in the US they seem to be pretty sparse.

OK, I think that you want action around the longitudinal axis, a roll, instead of action left and right, a wiggle. That is how I read your post, but if I am right, what you ask is going to be a challenge for sure. Making a lure that has some roll along with a primary wiggle action is fairly common and is done by moving the ballets slightly higher in the bait. Making a lure that rolls one way, then back the other way, is not something I have seen before. First, I propose that you want a near neutral balance and density. If the bait moves through the water nose high or low, it will wiggle, not just roll. If your bait sinks nose high or low, it will try to self correct, and it will wiggle, not just roll. Next, making a lure that simply rolls is easy, making a lure that rolls part way, then rolls back the other way, then self corrects and rolls again to the first direction may be a real challenge. I will give it some thought, but at this point in time, I really need to hear back from you to see if I am understanding your goal.

In theory they are, but they often feel that cool when the core is not. Some cool overnight, but I often toss them into an ice bath. Either way, try letting them cool longer.

Wow, I have to work a couple of days and you guys leave me in the dust. LOL Well done, and yes, the originals did blow out on a fast retrieve.

"remember you are trying to replicate a plastic lure using wood so adjustments are going to be needed to get close action wise" Actually, if you go back to the originals, the Lazy Ike jointed and the Helen Flatfish jointed, they were wood. I was thinking that they sold out to plastic in the late 70's early 80's. I spend hours searching ebay back in the early days buying the wood versions because they seemed to work better. LOL I have some ideas, but I would need to see your version from the side, from the top, etc.

Lurepartsonline.com had some gold plated ones. You are correct, they are expensive, but not as expensive as some would think.