Anglinarcher

http://makelure.com/products.cfm There are lots of options, and I have included one above that sells just about everything you need for resins. I even get some from my local Hobby Lobby Store. Hope this helps.

If you change your mind about making your own molds, it is really easy. http://makelure.com/howtos.cfm I agree, the softer the plastic, the better they will swim. I also suggest that most commercial baits in the smaller sizes are not properly ballest weighted, causing them to roll. I like larger tails, with paddes top and bottom, softer plastic, more bottom weight, and ............... You get the idea.

I have some of the Hobby Lobby 30 minute and so far it is working fine. I learned a long time ago that the slower the Epoxy cures the clearer and less brittle it ends up, so as me in a year or so when the test samples I made up can be compared. In my archery days, we discovered that 5 minute epoxy would shatter after about a year so we stopped using it to glue the inserts to the carbon arrows. On the other hand, what we called 24 hour epoxy would never yellow or get brittle.

Your right Dutchman, it is not worth getting into a pissing match about. I can respect your position. Nevertheless............ I remember, while taking a pre-med chemistry class, reading a American Medical Association Journal article by a Doctor telling about a new method he was going to use. It sounded great, but it failed several chemistry criteria. In short, had chemist not reviewed his article, he would have killed his patients. Additionally, having a title like 'Doctor' only means you have a PHD. Having a PHD in fine art does not make you an expert in Physics. I won't even get into the details of why they call doctors "practicing physicians". LOL In short, I got my degree, and my career, in Engineering. I still have my CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics. All oils disolve and desperse to some extent in water. Water is known as a universal solvent. Nevertheless, I will conceed, the good Doctor is partially correct. Oil and water do not mix well, so a fish's response to an oil based scent would depend entirely on their sensitivity to what little oil is disolved or despersed into the water. Note: It would be great if oil did not disolve, desperse, or mix with water. We would not have such problems with residual oil in the oceans after oil spills, expecially the deep water blowouts.

You could make your own mold. http://makelure.com/howtos.cfm I have done similar by using a body size and shape I liked and adding a tail design I wanted. You can make the whole thing out of Wax, clay, etc., for a master. Of course, I don't seel my baits either!

I would have to disagree with Dr. Jones. Perhaps they do not "smell" like you and I do, but they can either detect scent (that would be smelling) or they taste scent at a distance (and that would be smelling). The bullhead catfish has been proven to detect scents in extremely low concentractions. Trout, Steelhead, and Salmon have also been shown to have extreme sences of smell. I don't think Bass and many other game fish are as influenced by scent, but they will at times respond to it. I remember one trout fishing trip where the fish were just following our spinners. We went through several colors, sizes, styles, and all we were getting was a close follow. One of us put an oil based scent on one and he caught a fish on the next cast, and the next, and the next. The other caught nothing until we put the same scent on that spinner and the results were the same - fish after fish after fish. I know, this is rare, but it did and does happen. Remember, even oil will desperse in water to some degree, and all oils desolve a small amount in water. But I will agree that water based scents desperse much better. Now don't get the idea that I think scent is super important, it is not at the top of my list. Still, at times, it does make a difference, so................ as I stated, if Dr. Jones has made the statement that fish cannot smell, then either Dr. Jones has misstated his case or he is being misquoted. IMHO

Guys, I don't get it. I have been using epoxy for so many years that I think it was what held the collar on the neck of my first pet, T-Rex. LOL You have a catalast and a resin. Exact quantities are NOT required. It may take longer for a mix that is low on catalast (hardner) to set, but it WILL cure. If you are getting stick baits, it is due to imporperly mixed epoxy or very old resin. Woops, need to follow this up with IMHO.

Did you get the information you needed?

I'll bump this up and say thanks. Your site is in my favorites now.

http://www.tnfish.org/PhotoGalleryFish_TWRA/FishPhotoGallery_TWRA/TWRAFishPhotoGallery.htm http://www.wiscfish.org/fishid/wFrmWisconsinFishList.aspx I have had good results by going to fish pictures on the internet. See the above two sites for good pictures. I then copy the picture using a right click of the mouse and then upload the picture into Photoshop or Paint or some other photo editing program. I then zoom into the feature I want, copy that portion, scale it for printing, then print out what I need. This gives me a perfect feature, like fin or tail, to make by stencil from. Depending on your printer, your program, etc., it may take some work to get the exact size you need, but this is one option you can try.

I second this. Alumilite sticks to everything, so a mold release would be required for sure. RTV sticks to nothing but Silicone, so unless you are pooring silicone, no mold release is required. Dave has set out the best plan.

Mister Twister even had one similar, I believe called the ring worm. How old is it?

The airbrush is fine, but a medium sized tip might be best. The key is to use a gravity feed brush so you are not spraying so much air, which dries the material in the tip. Are you spraying this stuff in an open area, with lots of fresh air, and wearing a chemical mask? That stuff is pretty dangerous.

For production, if I ever decided to do that, I might design the lure on computer, using a 3-D CADD program. Then take it to a CNC company for a blank. I would then make molds with RTV and ................ Sorry, I am small time, just enough to keep myself in lures. HEHE

I would suggest that you could use a metal plate as part of the mold, the thickness of the desired lip. Treat the plate with Universal mold release, insert the plate, then mold the bait. When you are done, clean the slot left by removing the plate, probably with alcohol, then epoxy the lip in. If you want, you can just make your mold so the lip inserts into the mold, then mold the lip into the lure as you mold the bait. This would be the easiest way, and Alumilite will adhear very well to the lexan or circuit board lips. I don't advise using Alumilite resin for the lip, but then again, most lure companies seem to make pretty weak lips anyway. Perhaps if your standards are not higher then the mass production lures, then it won't matter, go ahead and mold with the Alumilite.

http://www.lurecraft.com/content/page.cfm/shipping-details

You can get lower SG's by slush molding or roto molding, but it adds a little extra time. Still, with what you are telling be about availability, I would be doing exactly what you are. I feel for you man, I really do.

Dave, Have you considered, now that the body shape is set and hinges are your only variable, making the swimbaits out of urathane, using silicone molds? You can make up body sections in about 10 minutes and you can drill, sand, cut, etc., just like wood. Using microballons or metal powder as an addative, you can adjust your specific gravity to match any wood, and be more consistent. Just an idea, I'm too lazy to use wood anymore. LOL

I was just reviewing the videos again and I noticed that Version 3 revised differed from versions 1, 2, & 4 in rotational flexibility about the longitudinal axis. Version 3 R had a fair amount of roll from the second segment back while the head remained stable. Is it possible that the loose hinges allowed the excess energy to be absorbed by the enhanced rotation of the rear segments?