Anglinarcher

Always nervous when a new single poster suggest a product. Nevertheless, Artnglow is an option. https://www.artnglow.com/collections/glow-in-the-dark-powder http://www.kosmickreations.net/html/glow_in_the_dark_powder.html https://unitednuclear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=28_45&products_id=1079 I do suggest that you remember that un-coated powders are not usable in water based paints or acidic environments, so use un-coated ones in solvent based paints or clears. Coated powders can be used in water based paints or clears, or solvent based paints or clears. While I am always nervous, I do welcome nightviewart to the site and hope to find night a great source and contributor in the future. Welcome to the site. Have you used Artnglow's products before? Do they have coated versions? How do they spray through airbrushes, our most common method of applying them for lures?

You have that right. My ranking in the company sales has gone up substantially, and not because I am a good salesman, but because I am a decent teacher. I tell those that ask how, and as best I can when and where, and they come back in with their pictures. I had one potential customer getting cranky with me a couple of days ago (probably COVID-19 stress). An existing customer came to my rescue and showed his pictures. Success of any product in the long term is always a result of not only marketing but exposure of a good product.

"And if they put jitterbugs back on the Shelf, I guarantee you they couldn't keep them on there". Actually, against my recommendations, my buyers took them off my wall a year ago because they did not sell here. I still catch fish with them a lot. " Lures don’t sell themselves even if they are awesome " Ain't that the truth. And I truly do agree that lures that have gone away can be new again. For our local trout, Flatfish have lost their popularity, but when I can get fishermen to use them, they come in and buy all that I have on the racks. Sometimes it just does not make since.

ICAST as a virtual event should perhaps be a secondary thing, not the primary. For a long time, the event has focused on showing the product to the planners and buyers, not the consumers, so having a more hands on, more of a touchy/feeley event is still important. Restricting the event to the buyers and planners just increased consumer hype. In my store I have lots of people that come in with a picture or video of what they want, and when they see it in person, they choose something else completely. Sometimes it is the packaging, sometimes the hands on simply does not live up to the hype from the virtual presentation. Sometimes the product simply does not live up to the personality that shows it. That is why I tell my customers I am a teacher, not a salesman: I would rather sell them what they understand and will/can use than something trendy and expensive. I'm not saying that we should not augment the physical with a virtual, quite the opposite, but watching the demographics of the fisherman and fisher-women in my store tell me that the days of only using virtual presentations are a long way off. Remember, those of us old enough had catalogs, like Herter's, or Sears, or Montgomery Wards, and they gave way to the box stores. The current generation has gone to the on-line catalog but returns are high because of it. The pendulum is swinging one way now, but it will swing the other way again, then back....and forth.... and ..... So, for this year, there may not be a choice, but I predict that the results will be disappointing. If I were presenting a new product, and had to get it out as soon as possible to get ahead of the curve/others, I would present it virtually.......BUT, if I could hold off a year and show it in person (assuming we would actually be able to do that next year), I would hold off. Just my opinion, but I do believe my opinion is based on good observations and actual experience.

cadman is sooooo correct. There are some baits that stand the test of time, but in reality most baits only get used once or twice and normally not in the correct place, conditions, etc., etc. They don't catch fish that day and consume the space in the tackle box for life. Ever notice the 100+ colors we make lures with, but ever wonder if the fish really demand that number of colors? I contend that most colors are for the fishermen, not the fish. Still, once in a while a special color comes out that "stands the test of time". Bringing back an old old lure is not a bad idea, if it had one of those reputations that "stood the test of time". But, if it was discontinued it probably did not have that reputation. Lacking that reputation, it takes marketing, and winning a tournament or two, especially one that is televised, will do the trick. As cadman put it, "they have (had) their day in the sun". Look at the Jitterbug or the Hula Popper. Finding a Jitterbug in a store is tough now, and they once were as common as house flies. Finding a Hula Popper is even more difficult. I still have both, still catch fish with them, but as far as sales are concerned, their day in the sun has faded. Do some research and determine if there is enough of a reason to believe that the sun will rise on them again.

Aluminum blades, the delta style, are the ones that did squeak. T_Bend talks about the methods that I once did myself. I sure would not claim to have found the "commercially viable" way to make the squeak uniform for sure. For mine, I still use a course file and I find that it works, but some are more effective then others: pretty tough to be consistent. To my knowledge all of the plastic blades are molded around some form of aluminum shaft. Most straight plastics I know of would wear with use so the life of the lure would be limited. Still, I can see it working.

Look at squish molds. You need to do a little trim work, but that is a good option.

All the time. LOL Go to a wall of soft baits at your local fishing store and you will notice 50 colors advertised, some so close to each other that without the writing on the package you can't tell them apart. But, fisherman want this one, not that one. Go figure.

I don't know what you would paint it with that would not transfer to the bait, but, if you could, yes, it would work.

No amount of microballons will stop the mix fromhardening, but incomplete or improper mixing of part A and B will. Try mixing Part A and Part B first, then quickly add the microballons. That should do it if ....... First, resin can and will separate. Shaking may not be adequate on large and old supplies of resin. Making a mixer out of bent wire, like a metal coat hanger (do they still exist? LOL) and using it on a drill will ensure a good mix first. Then next step do the process above.

Ya, nothing new, but always fun. Back in the late 70's we started making what we called "creature baits" by combining hot melted baits together. I believe that all of the advanced lure shapes and styles can trace their origins back to those days. A candle is nice, but often too much carbon. I prefer an alcohol flame or a lighter myself. I don't do it much anymore, but it gives you a great excuse to keep and recycle your old baits.

It looks like you are making your own silicone molds? If that is true, I know what is happening. Any surface imperfection in the original is transferred to the mold, and the mold will then transfer it to the final bait. Even if it was a factory silicone mold, if the original is not perfect, the bait will not be perfect. When I make on original, I "polish" the original before I make the mold. How I "polish" the original depends on what I made it from, but the surface must be slick, clean, "polished". Note, polished does not mean with wax because it can cause some silicone to not properly set cure. The reason the top is slick, shiny, is because air does not have imperfections to transfer. I hope this helps some. Silicone can make slick shiny molds as well as aluminum, but because aluminum is machined it is polished to start with. Silicone requires a perfect original to start with.

And my "ideal" bone would be half way in between. LOL Go figure.

Don't take the color mixer programs too seriously. The computer screen never gives the exact color so what you see is not what you get. It is close, but you will need to tweak it some more in reality.

Biggest problem is that bone is not a color that everyone agrees on. Your bone is not always my bone. You might do a search on the sight but in the end, it might be best to post a picture of the color you want.

Ya, best way. I don't usually pour through the tail. I make my mold to use a rubber stopper to hold the material and then rotomold it. Lots of good ideas above, just some " TEST...TEST...TEST."

I use a lot of resin in lures, but what you ask is pretty much impossible. I wanted to post my graph but we are limited to about 10K less then the graph is, so that is out. In summary, if you use the same VOLUME of resin to the same VOLUME or microballons, you will get results about the same density as maple. (for example, 10 cc microballons, 5 cc part a, 5 cc part b - .69 grams/cc compared to water which is 1 gram/cc) Now, this works, but it is not easy to pour, in fact, it is pretty thick. What I do is probably not called mass production (LOL) but for me it works. I rotomold the shell using resin with only some microballons. The microballons make it thick enough to get good rotomold results. I then add the weight (you need to figure that out for yourself), then I add structural foam (2 part expanding). Using that method you can adjust weight, balance, etc., etc. but it takes a lot of experimentation, or a great set of math skills. Hope this helps some, it is not easy.

"Was the video helpful?" Yes, the video was helpful, but because the camera kept refocusing in it kind of hurt my old eyes. Yes, we do have people from one end of this big old earth to another. Hillbilly is right again.

I believe Hillbilly is correct. I zoomed in as much as possible and I am sure that it is marabou spun on the shank and bucktail over it. The material Flyman is talking about is not it, but it would be an upgrade for sure. As for colors, the two pictures are so different that it is clear that you will need to take it with you to a local store to match (never possible completely). The jig head is an old head that I have not seen for some time, but lureparts.com has some that would be close, and even an update as well. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Shop-By-Product-Category/Jigs-Spinnerbaits-Buzzbaits/Jigs/Bass-Jigs/WeedlessBassJigs/ClassicSeries?page=1 This one would be my suggested one. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/1826-Super-Stroke-Swim-Jig-5pk As for the grub, you are going to have more issues. Because there are two pictures, each looking different, you will need to do some searching on the web and "roll the dice". This looks well fished, so we don't know if there was a color fade. I would never agree to make some for a customer that was a perfect match, but I am sure you can get close enough for the fish.

Too many variables to answer. To little details. I make several styles for my personal use, and I have used several makes. I usually go with Alumilite with some softener for those that I find need to be more flexible, and some straight, and some with hardener. In fact, even the term swim bait needs to be defined. Is a curly tail a swim bait? How about a paddle tail? What about a Sieble Magic Swimmer? If you can provide more details, like the type of swimbait, the size of bait, the control surface you are using to make it "swim", then I bet a dozen people can provide excellent information.

LOL, didn't mean to start a political discussion. Now I feel even worse for you guys. But, I do agree, even though the laws are so fluid I won't even try to vising any more, "but the hunting and fishing is great".

Ya, Silicone only sticks to silicone. But, there are two main types of mold silicone that I know of. The platinum base will cure with contaminants, but the tin based is impacted by some chemicals and won't cure. If you are not sure if the master has that chemical, it is best to coat the master with a neutral clear.

After reading this, I am glad I don't live in Canada. LOL I feel for you guys.

Have not seen the videos, don't know what they use, but..... I have been using the following for some poppers and floating jigs. It is tough stuff, molds to any shape, and remains soft. https://www.alumilite.com/resins/flexible-foam-5-8-density/ See if this is what you are talking about. Larry Dahlberg made some diver heads out of it on one of his Hunt For Big Fish shows several years ago and that got me thinking.

I bet they will swim great. I have made some out of lead and they were impressive..... but with knock offs available from Lurepartsonline.com, I won't pour any more. The brass ones work just fine. Kastmasters are such a simple bait, and yet so effective. I see no reason that they will not work as you designed them. PS, I prefer them in bright silver or gold, with holographic tape on one side.